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Draxel_teg
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I am in serious need of some new tires and I would like to pull the wheels off myself and take them in to have new tires put on. It is a lot cheaper that way and I can get my bike back on the road quicker the local shop is 3 weeks behind and charges $80 per tire if they have to take the tires off but if I bring the wheels to them they well do it for $20 a pop and a lot quicker of a turn around.

I checked the service manual and according to the manual I need to have a Wheel bearing installer/remover tool (HD-44060)to take the wheels off. I called the local shop and they want $336.99 for it. LOL now that is not gonna happen I've seen a pic of this thing and it can't cost more than $30 for them to make so my question is do I actually need this thing? If so is there a cheaper alternative then the $336.99 Harley tool?

Thanks

Craig
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Hughlysses
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 09:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You don't need a wheel bearing puller/installer to remove the wheels from the bike. Unless you know the wheel bearings are bad, they shouldn't need to be replaced, and that's the only reason you'd need the tool. Even if the bearings do have to be replaced, the same shop that does the tires likely has a tool to do it.
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Sslowmo
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 10:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i have taken mine off twice and i don't owen one! buy the service manual.
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Draxel_teg
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 10:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yeah I thought so but the service manual makes it look like you do need it so I thought I would check. I can't be down to long since my bike is my main form of transportation.

Thanks again

Craig
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Nickcaro
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 10:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bill (xb12streetdemon) helped me out big time by helping me do just that. its really not that hard, you just need a method to hold the bike up. He has straps coming down from the ceiling in the garage. no special tools where needed other than some socket sets and the wheel socket that comes in your kit. Turn around time at the dealer was about 40 minutes.
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Jkkj
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 11:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've got one better for you. For $35 from harbor freight you can get a tool that will break your tire off the bead. With that and a couple of tire tools and rim savers (of course) you can change your own in no time. The first time you use it it will pay for itself. I could not beleive how easy it was. I will see if I can find it on-line.
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Jkkj
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem. taf?Itemnumber=34542

The guy I know that has it has the motorcycle tire attachment as well, but we cann't figure out how to use it. I would suggest just the item in the link above.

Looks like the price went up also.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 11:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You don't even need the $35 bead breaker. Get a couple of lengths of scrap lumber (2x4's work well). Use one for a horizontal lever, another shorter vertical piece for a bead breaker. Place your wheel on a piece of cardboard on a flat surface next to a heavy work bench, car, or something similar. Place vertical piece on the tire adjacent to the rim, put the horizontal lever on top with the end under your work bench or car. Push down, and the bead will break easily. Rotate the wheel and repeat as necessary.

I've changed most of my tires so far (3 bikes) using tires irons but the rear on my Uly, which I changed about a month ago almost kicked my butt. I had 3 tire irons, two rim protectors, AND my 15 year old son helping, and it still took ~2 hours to get the old tire off and the new one on.

$20 is a pretty good deal...
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Draxel_teg
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 11:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I was thinking of getting the Harbor Freight portable tire changer because my dad, brother and best friend are all getting close to needing some new tires so we were thinking of all going in and purchasing the equipment needed to do it ourselves. Anyone have any suggestions on a good but not to expensive wheel balancer?
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Xb12rdude
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It's very easy to get the wheels off. Be careful how you jack the bike so that it won't tip over with both wheels off. ALSO, handle the belt VERRRY carefully. Don't bend or twist it. Also, make sure to put some grease or Anti-seize on the axle shafts because they start to stick to the bearing. This may be your only problem as you take your rims off, just be patience and don't ruin your bearings. PM if need help or need questions.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Balancer- find the plans from Motorcycle Consumer News 3 or 4 years ago. Basically you build a frame out of 3/4" (?) PVC plumbing fittings and pipe that supports the wheel and axle. You don't even need to glue it together. The axle rests on two horizontal steel bars, which allow it to roll; this takes bearing friction out of the equation. Move the wheel, the heavy spot will roll downwards. Move the wheel and repeat until you're sure you've found the heaviest spot. Put balance weights on opposite side and re-check. Works great. Total cost is less than $20.
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Fullpower
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

you dont need a jack, just lift the bike at the right side passenger peg mount with your LEFT hand, and insert a 6 inch high wood block under the back of the muffler.
total force required about 40 pounds vertical, not difficult at all. (Alaskan) girls can do it. for the front wheel you can use the same block of wood, lift at right handgrip, about 15 pound force will lean the bike over against side stand.
I break down beads on 17 inch wheels with a 6 inch C- clamp. use some soapy water and you wont have any trouble.
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Chessm
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

how do you guys balance the tire afterwards?
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Xring
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 03:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

First you should determine the heavy spot on your bare wheel and mark it. Sometimes this coincides with the valve stem location.

The tire should be mounted so that the red marks (on Pirelli tires) is lined up with the heavy spot on the wheel. This should reduce the amount of weight needed to balance.

To determine the heavy spot on the wheel, and to balance after the tire is mounted:
I used two cinderblocks with a piece of wood on top so as not to damage the axle.
Place the blocks a distance from each other that will allow the tire to just barely slip down between them. Level the blocks. With the axle inserted through the wheel bearings, the axle will rest on the blocks, leaving the wheel free to rotate. Now gently roll the axle back and forth, just a little bit, to break the bearing friction and allow the wheel to turn freely. You'll see what I mean. Try this a few times starting with the wheel rotated to different positions each time. A definite heavy spot will tend to rotate to the bottom each time. Mark the wheel on the inside (hidden when the tire is mounted) at the heavy spot. Once the tire is mounted, repeat the procedure, using tape to hold the wheel weights in place temporarily on the light spot (180* from the heavy spot, or at the top of the wheel once the heavy spot has rotated to the bottom). Continue adding weight until no definite heavy spot occurs. Mark the position for the wheel weights, clean the surfaces and attach them.

Good luck,
Bill

Edited my mistake about where the red dots go.

(Message edited by xring on July 13, 2007)
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Chessm
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 03:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

neat! thanks for the info!
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Firebolteric_ma
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 06:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

No-Mar-Bar works every time...
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Xring
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 08:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Please note I edited my post, I was wrong about where the red dots go; they are to be lined up with the heavy spot on the wheel, not the light spot. The valve stem is supposed to be on the heavy spot on the wheel, I checked mine and it was close on one wheel, not the other.

Bill
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Rocksham
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 08:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The service manual says to line the tire dot up with the dot on the rim. Yes? No?
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Xb12randy
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 10:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Damn you guys are Hard Core. Changing sport bike tires by hand. I've changed many a MX tire by hand with spoons but I ain't taking on a 180 rear. LOL

Guess I'm lucky I have Cycle Gear store nearby. You bring in the loose rim and buy the tire at there store and they will mount and balance for free : )
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Draxel_teg
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 11:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hughlysses any chance you have a copy of the plans from Motorcycle Consumer News March 2004? I ran a search for it on google but the best I can come up with is buying the back issue.


I also found this site to be quite helpful pretty much step by step instructions. And some tips for making a home made bead breaker and balancer
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.html
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Aldaytona
Posted on Saturday, July 14, 2007 - 03:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey!
Are all you guys still stuck in the dark ages? You don't need a balancer............
Dyna Beads, put them in and forget it.
www.dynabeads.com.
Thank me later
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Hughlysses
Posted on Saturday, July 14, 2007 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hughlysses any chance you have a copy of the plans from Motorcycle Consumer News March 2004? I ran a search for it on google but the best I can come up with is buying the back issue.

I've got it around here somewhere. I'll see if I can find it and scan the article.
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Cgocifer
Posted on Monday, July 16, 2007 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Notice any weirdness with the dynabeads? Every time I get a tire balanced, it's never quite perfect.
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Aldaytona
Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2007 - 08:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

No weirdness throughout the tire life that I can tell.
Certainly the easiest way to balance I've ever seen as well.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2007 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Draxel_teg,

I didn't get a chance to find my copy of the MCN tire balancer article yet but I did find a photo of one on-line:

http://hondashadowacetourer.yuku.com/topic/6496/t/ Static-Tire-Wheel-Balancers.html

The MCN unit is about 1/3 the down. A couple of alternative units are shown as well.

One thing about the MCN balancer- it's best not to glue it together. I've found that for both my S3 and Uly, I have to change the width of the thing in order for the axle to reach and the tire to clear the sides. I just made up two sets of cross-pipes and marked them "wide" and "narrow". Takes ~1 minute to change it.

I'll still scan the article and send it if I can find it.

(Message edited by hughlysses on July 17, 2007)
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Chrisb
Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2007 - 09:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have a no mar machine. And a Marc Parnes balancer.

The No Mar machine is great for dismounts. I'm less than impressed with remounts. I'm glad I got a good deal on the unit. Its paid for itself on my pickup truck tires alone. I picked up some new tires off Craigslist from a guy who drove his new truck to the tire shop from the dealer to get mud tires.

I used the dyna beads on the truck they seem to work well.
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Sjh
Posted on Tuesday, July 17, 2007 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The No-Mar Machine makes tire changes on the Buells very easy.

Check out their website to view some of the videos for tips, and make sure you are lubing the tire in the correct location for this machine.

http://nomartirechanger.com/
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