| Author |
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Damnut
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 01:39 pm: | 
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Ccryder
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 01:43 pm: |
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I'm curious as to how a stock XB clutch compares to one from a "tuber"? After ~75,000 miles on a "tuber" they had a hefty clutch pull but nothing that could not be readily tolerated.
Anyone care to compare?
Thanks
Neil S. |
Cereal
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 01:50 pm: |
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It's exactly the same on my 96 S1 and my 03 XB9R. |
Hogs
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 01:56 pm: |
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I think what the OLdMAN was getting at it.....
Sometimes one does mods, and Yes it appears to do GooD... But its a trade off down the road something screws up or could screw up because of said mod.....
The OldMAN may be OLD but Give us OLD men some Slack.. sometimes we know MORE than you Youngies.....
IN other words... We have forgot more than you know...! |
Ccryder
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 01:56 pm: |
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Thx, I was worried that I would have to start working out again ;+} or resort to other mechanical endeavors.
I found on my S3T, X1/(X3) and, S2T that lubricating the cable and pivot points went a loooong way to making the clutch pull easier.
Time2find an XB
Neil S. |
Tpoppa
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 02:53 pm: |
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The only tradeoff that I can see is...if you reduce the clutch movement, you may need to adjust your clutch more frequently to keep it in the proper range. However, I have not experienced this. |
Old_man
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 04:11 pm: |
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"Old_man - How do you arrive at that conclusion?"
The clutch spring must be compressed a given distance - The clutch 'lever' moves a given distance.
The laws of physics are such that to compress the spring using less force you must use a longer lever to increase the distance the lever is pulled, or using this lesser force to move the spring a shorter distance with the same length lever.
If the total force transmitted is less, using these devises, using the same clutch lever, then the spring must not be releasing fully.
Or is adjusted to fully release not fully compressing the clutch together.
Unless the standard clutch is engineered with extra distance, not needed. this would seem they are promising something for nothing.
With the standard clutch I don't find any extra, as it drags with the lever fully compressed. |
Tpoppa
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 05:01 pm: |
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Old man you're on the right track...
There is 'extra' movement in the clutch. If there wasn't there wouldn't be a clutch adjustment screw, you would require 100% of the movement so adjustment wouldn't be possible.
If your clutch is dragging with the lever fully compressed, either the clutch is out of adjustment or you may have a warped clutchplate. |
Old_man
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 05:11 pm: |
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The only time I have any drag is on the initial startup, the first time I put it in gear. After that it's fine. |
Old_man
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 05:26 pm: |
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I purchased a clutch easing attachment to my standard clutch.
It attached to the existing lever lengthening it and giving more leverage.
After contemplating how it functioned I decided not to install it.
I moved the clutch lever 3/8 in. away from the original position next to the hand grip, allowing my hand to grip more toward the end of the clutch lever, giving my hand a little more leverage.
I found an excellent lube at my dealer and oiled the cable well.
Even with an old wrist injury I find the clutch pull no problem now. |
Bombardier
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 06:11 pm: |
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Cold oil will create drag as it is thicker. This would take up the small clearance between the clutch plates and create an effect similar to a torque convertor where one rotating object turns another object not attached but by the movement of the liquid( transmission fluid ). |
Old_man
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 06:53 pm: |
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Bombardier, I believe you are right, that is the cause of the initial drag.
It is an indication of how little separation between the clutch plates when you use the clutch.
I wouldn't want any less.
And I wouldn't want to risk clutch slippage with too little free play when it is engaged. |
Tintin74
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 07:57 pm: |
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Sorry to come in late but Al from American Sport Bike talked me into buying the Muller clutch because of the arguments you mention:
Same travel at the lever with longer arm at the clutch = less spring compression.
This is where spending 5x the money for a Muller clutch helps: The muller clutch not only uses a longer arm, but INSIDE the ball and ramp mechanism, it uses... shorter ramps. This way you get the same spring compression as before.
This is clearly shown on the link below:
http://ragingbuell.com/Zoom.php?Page=Aide_Embrayag e_X1&ID=25 |
Old_man
| | Posted on Friday, July 13, 2007 - 08:59 pm: |
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It is possible with a different ball and ramp mechanism to redistribute the force required to compress the spring the same distance as stock.
Making the initial part of the pull easier and the final part, with your hand near closing, harder.
This setup could, in effect, feel easier
But the total force to compress the spring would be the same. |
Tintin74
| | Posted on Saturday, July 14, 2007 - 08:32 pm: |
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The muller device still reduces by 10% at the beginning and end of the motion and 40% in the middle. Maybe they reduced the spring compression by 10% which is still better than what you get with just the longer arm.
I'm almost impervious to the placebo effect as I used my Triumph Tiger to compare: before Muller = heavier clutch on the Buell, after Muller = Lighter clutch on the Buell than the Tiger |
Isham
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 25, 2007 - 11:23 am: |
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I have the x-soft clutchlite and really love it. It's awesome, much better over stock. |
