| Author | Message | ||
     Tpoppa |
I have 2003 XB9S with almost 21,000 miles. It recently developed a problem with the front brake. Front braking power is way down. When I brake at over 50 mph there is noticeable vibration in the front end, but not much vibration in the brake lever. Any ideas? So far I have checked... 1. Brake pads look ok a still have some miles left on them. 2. Steering Head Bearing is torqued to spec. 3. No bubbles in the brake line. 4. All six rotor mounting bolts still 'float.' | ||
| 147db |
Did you unmount and remount the rotor in the past? | ||
| Tpoppa |
The rotor has never been off the wheel. The front wheel hasn't been off the bike in about 7,000 miles. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Could be build up of brake pad residue on the rotors. Al Lighton at American Sport Bike, one of our sponsors as a rotor hone that will clean them nicely, but you need to remove the rotor, and get a new fastener kit. Changing to Lyndall Gold brake pads, also from American sport bike, will work better than stock, and clean the rotors at the same time, and won't cost much more than the hone and the fasteners. Be sure to break in the pads according to the instructions. | ||
| 147db |
I agree with Jon, the Nissin (stock) pads aren't so good... I have got the same problem too: http://www.147db.com/tech/01prima.jpg http://www.147db.com/tech/02prima.jpg After the cleaning: http://www.147db.com/tech/01dopo.jpg http://www.147db.com/tech/02dopo.jpg ;) | ||
| Tpoppa |
G_j, there is residue and alot of spots on the rotor. 147, the Lyndalls made that much difference? | ||
| Ridrx |
My new favorite recipe for great brakes on your XB ingredients: 1 Buell XB w/brake deposits 1 set Lyndall Racing Brakes Gold pads 1 bottle DOT4 or equivalent Start by mixing the LRB Golds with the Buell as per your service manual. Preheat the rotor pads w/10 stops per directions on pads, continue to bake for 10 hard stops from 40mph(a whisp of smoke and the aroma of smoldering kevlar may accompany the last stops, it's normal), let cool to room temp. Brake and enjoy ZTL. Serving suggestions: Change brake fluid and bleed to eliminate any moisture or contaminates. It's easy enough that I'm going to start doing it at every pad change. Search for the syringe bleeding thread in the Knowledge Vault, very useful. | ||
| 147db |
147, the Lyndalls made that much difference? Here in Italy the Lyndalls pads aren't available... I use Braking pads and rotors [ http://www.braking.com/bk/home.asp?sel_lingua=eng ], the principal difference is in the lack of deposits (and vibrations too). | ||
| Punkid8888 |
Not trying to hijack the thread but I have had a similar issue that I have kinda swept under the rug from myself I have a vibration problem too. I clean the rotor about every 1000 miles with a brillo pad and some simple green. But it only makes it slightly less annoying. I have never seen, or been able to move my rotor like everyone says. I do remember that for the first 3000 miles the bike stopped great. And it also had that crazy buzz. But now I rarely hear that buzz and only after a good cleaning Is it common for the rotor to get stuck just randomly, and will no longer float? How critical is it to use new hardware on the rotor? I was hoping I could just remove the bolts and really clean the rotor and make sure it’s free to float. and then reinstall the rotor with the old hardware. | ||
| Altima02 |
Anyone else with Lyndall Golds have a really loud buzzing. Its starting to get on my nerves, I broke them in properly. | ||
| Ridrx |
They do buzz. It's the holes in the rotor. Mine do it pretty loud. I like it.;) | ||
| Altima02 |
Its getting old. | ||
| Ebuella_virus |
+1 Altima They stop me fine... but that szszszszszszszszsz sound is annoying! | ||
| Fookinbueller |
clever name... Ebuella Virus, awesome. | ||
| Jlnance |
Punkid - It has to float to work right. Your bike is an 06, this should be covered under warranty as is the pulsing rotor. | ||
| Glitch |
With 21,000 miles on the rotor, I'd be getting a new rotor, pads, and bleed out the lines. It's time, well worth the time, effort, and money. I have the Lydall Golds, and recommend them. | ||
| Tpoppa |
I took it to the local HD/Buell shop to try to get the rotor replaced under the extended warranty (which I have never had to use). After a short ride the HD tech said "it seems like it stops pretty good." Compared to a Road King, it probably does, but something is definitely wrong. | ||
| Glitch |
It won't be a warranty fix, since the rotor is a wearable item, and has more than likely just reached the end of it's life. It's one of the easier of the DIY things to do, so I wouldn't have anyone else do it for you. | ||
| Tpoppa |
I called HD ESP. Rotors are covered as long as the dealer can identify a problem. I would MUCH rather do the work myself, but it would be nice if HD ESP pays for the rotor. | ||
| Glitch |
If they'll pay for a rotor and pads, you'd be crazy to turn it down. I'm all about freebies!  | ||
| Itchybro |
I've entered "lyndall" in the search field at American Sportbike. "No items found". Where can one find these? | ||
| Ridrx |
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9059.html try that link..should take you right to them. | ||
| Itchybro |
Rockin'! Thanx! | ||
| Ridrx |
That's what we're here for...right? Hope you like the Golds as much as I do, and don't forget to buy an American Sport Bike t-shirt to show your support of those fine folks.  | ||
| Blaster2 |
If you can't fix it, consider this set. Disk an pads from Braking. Just installed them on my bike and they seem to give awesome stopping power but I am still 'braeking' them in.   | ||
| Tdiddy |
The golds are the best!!! I could smell the burnt clutch smell on my boots from breaking them in for hours after getting off the bike. Lots of smoke from the old deposits on the rotor. | ||
| Gearedforacure |
let me just put something out there. I bought an 04 12r with 6300 miles and I had a similar problem. I am a cyclist and it felt like the equivalent of a loose headset. If I brake with the front and rear its fine, but if I get hard on the front brake the bike shutters. I took it in to have my local buell shop (buell friendly) take a look at it. Chris rode it around the test lot and came back with an answer. He said the bushing in the front motor mount is wearing out and when I wrench on the front brake, the motor is actually making contact with the frame giving me that shuttering feeling through the bars. The $80 part was on backorder so I am waiting for it to come in, but he was very confident that was the problem. He even showed me the sag that mine had just when you sit on the bike compared to a new one on the floor. This may be something to look into. | ||
| Punkid8888 |
if that were the case, then you should be able to change the vibration frequency by changing the rpm of the engine while braking, kinda like pulling in the clutch or something. basically you need to see if the vibration is RPM dependent or road speed dependent. I would also suspect that if the frame and engine are making contact then there should be some marks to show it. in my opinion that seams a bit far fetched | ||
| Gearedforacure |
look at the front motor mount, its not the engine touching the frame, its the bushing in the motor mount wearing out. The vibrations from the engine are no longer being protected from the frame of the bike, not to the point that you will notice it during idle, but during hard braking when the motor is trying to maintain its momentum forward and there is probably some frame torque, you feel it. I will do the work as soon as I get the part and post back here. when you look at the part, it seems logical to me. Why would my mechanic tell me its an easy $80 fix on my own when he could say lets spend an hour or two taking things apart to see what the problem is? | ||
| Tpoppa |
in my opinion that seams a bit far fetched +1, I have never hear that before. If I brake with the front and rear its fine The motor would shift forward just as much whne using the front or rear brakes. You may want to do a search for 'steering head bearing' (discussed many times). It was pretty common on 03's and 04's to have a clicking in the front end when on the front brakes, it was easily solved by re-torquing the steering head bearing per the service manual. | ||
| Gearedforacure |
Tpoppa, Thanks for the heads up, I will check that as well. I still think this is probable, when you are on the rear brake and the front brake, I dont think the frame torques as much, at least thats how I worked it out in my head. |
