| Author | Message | ||
     Brucen |
I need to remove my front brake caliper. The manual says to use red loctite on the mounting bolts. The last time I took something apart that had red loctite on it I needed a propane torch & impact wrench to get it apart. What is the best way to remove the caliper bolts without damaging the caliper or fork? I don't want to risk melting seals or stripping the bolts. | ||
| Spatten1 |
Mine came right off, is yours totally frozen? If so, try penetrating oil first. | ||
| Spatten1 |
Also, use an air impact on a low setting if you have one, it will hammer it out and break the locktite. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Get one of those mini-propane torches that the crackheads like. Adjust that for a pinpoint flame and give the head of the bolt about 30 seconds or so of heat, then use a perfectly aligned, good quality, Torx bit. If the Torx bit is rounded on the end or shoulders, grind it flat without getting it too hot to hold in your fingers and stone a very slight/barely visible radius on the flats on the tips. Just enough to take the sharp edges off. Jack | ||
| New12r |
Jack, the caliper does not use Torx, they are standard allen heads. | ||
| Semirgdj |
I just took off 3 fronts from 3 different buells (03' 9, 05' 9, 05'12 They all came off with no problems | ||
| Surveyor |
When you refit the caliper forget the loctite and torque 'em up TAF. You'll never have a problem getting the caliper off again....in fact it will even fall off while you are riding it.........believe me....I know. NOTE; 'TAF' acronym. Coloquial phrase common in the Irish racing community. TAF also 'Tight as F**k' | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
I normally replace carbon steel screws with stainless, especially when the screws go into aluminum, and tensile strength isn't an issue, to reduce electrolytic corrosion between the steel and aluminum. I have found that blue locktite will do the job on the front brake rotor screws, but they definitely do need some kind of thread blocker. Red seems a bit overkill. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Thanks Charles, it will work on either. The heat will release the LocTite. It takes about 800F on red for a full, permanent release, but just getting up too a few hundred or so helps some. Jack | ||
| Spatten1 |
reduce electrolytic corrosion between the steel and aluminum Great idea, I can't tell you how many corroded threads were on my bike when I tore it down. | ||
| Fullpower |
I use blue loctite on my caliper retaining screws. Never have had a problem with them. | ||
| Pso |
I use Blue loctite also. | ||
| Sicbird |
I keep a little bottle of blue loctite under the seat...use it on every fastener. |
