| Author | Message | ||
     Riclyd |
You must excuse my gramar since I dont know some of the tecnical terms in this post, but I hope you can understand me. I drained my XB12s 2006. for oil today, like I'we done it before. After I'we drained it i was going to put back on the drain plug/bolt, put on some lock-tight and found the specs for torqe to tighten the bolt with. In the manual it says 39 - 46 nm. of torqe so I turned my torqe wrencher in on 40 nm. And I twisted off the "RILLS" (dont know if it is a real word but I hope some of you understand what I meen) in the swing arm/oil tank. Has some experienced this? What can I do? How much is it for a new swingarm? Please help me for Im desperate now... | ||
| Yohinan |
New swingarm would be a last resort. I would pull the swingarm and see about a helicoil as one option with a nutsert as a better option. If neither of them work you can always drill the hole out (If you take this route ensure oil shavings are dealt with) to the next size larger tap, tap the hole and then use a bigger bolt with an o-ring. Lots of options and none constitute a new swingarm. HTH | ||
| 07xb12scg |
So Buell's torque recommendations for the drain plug is wrong in the manual??? | ||
| Yohinan |
Not sure (I don't have a manual in front of me) but did it state in lb or ft lb. That would be the determining factor. You can usually use the base rule of bolt size to associated torque recommendations as a guide. If something seems way off in torque values then most likely a red stop sign should show up in your head. | ||
| Riclyd |
I dont know if the specs are wrong but I havent done anything wrong when I have put the drainplug back, I allways twist it gentally With my fingers untill it need to tighten, then I use my torque wrencher, and I didnt use any force either... | ||
| Riclyd |
The specs are stated in NM and ft lb in the manual | ||
| Doerman |
Det er en Buell i Hammerfest i Norge. Kjempebra! Greetings from LA. For the rest of the bunch, the above is just greeting from me to Riclyd in the native language (Norwegian). The torque spec on the drain plug is correct as you stated it. Seems like you may have cross threaded it. Unfortunately. If that is the case, follow "Yohinan's" advice. By the way, this might be the northern most Buell owner in the world. 70Degrees North (Same as Prodhoe Bay) Asbjorn | ||
| Riclyd |
Takker Asbjørn  Richard | ||
| Jkhawaii |
yea when I seen the specs in the book for 40 somthing ft lbs I thought somthings not right with that spec. it would be ok if it was a bolt threading into a iron part but its a plug threading into a aluminum swing arm! I just go hand tight (with a wrench that is) | ||
| Teddagreek |
Take it to a Machine/Welding shop.. They may even do with the bike together.... A good welder can add back in more material and then retap it... It will be stronger than the original.. I've had this done on Aircooled VW heads for the spark plugs.. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
One often reads in Bad Web about damaged threads, usually involving a steel screw in an aluminum part. Normally, these descriptions involve the use of a torque wrench. I am afraid that with the introduction of the click type torque wrench, a lot of guys are losing both their touch with a wrench, and a bit of their common sense. Torque values are very important when tightening down cylinder heads. Most of the time, it is more important not to strip the aluminum threads than to achieve a specific torque value. I am of the opinion that using a standard wrench, and a little common sense while developing a feel for what one is doing, is a better way to go than the click torque wrench, where the feel goes a way just when you need it, while instilling a false sense of confidence in the user. Using blue loctite on these joints is usually a good idea as well, because the loctite will partially seal the joint, so water does not enter and promote electrolytic corrosion between the two dissimilar metals. In addition, the loctite will help retain the screw without over tightening. This is an important consideration on a Buell which does tend to vibrate rather more than most. Replacing the screws with stainless ones also helps reduce corrosion, as stainless is closer on the galvanic scale to aluminum than carbon steel. If one must use a torque wrench, a dial version gives one more feel at the crucial point of max torque. just my .02¢ | ||
| Snackbar64 |
New swing arm is a very reasonable $325.00 | ||
| 07xb12scg |
Gentleman_jon: I agree somewhat about torque not always being critical, but a service manual's torque specs should be perfect and they should never lead to stripped parts if the owner does go by the manual and uses a fairly good torque wrench. | ||
| Ericz |
There is a better alternative to a heli coil. It is called a Time-sert. It is a solid threaded insert that will repair the hole to the stock threads. Since it is a solid piece it will seal better than a Heli-coil and is much stronger!! Check it out!! http://www.timesert.com/ I used one to repair the threads in my primary cover for the primary chain adjuster. It worked great!!! | ||
| Teeps |
The swing arm drain bolt hole can be repaired with a Time-Sert, whilst still on the bike. No need to replace it. A fellow Badweb member has a kit and will most likely loan it to you. I think Chadhargis is the guy. I drilled a drain plug for safety wire, torque the bolt to 12ft/lbs., a twist of wire and call it good. | ||
| Flatbusted |
You could try HD part number 718 should be able to pick it up just about any dealer for $2.50 it's 1/2 tapered pipe plug..I sell a few on occasion for just this problem,,mostly on H-D's.That is if there are any threads left in the swingarm. | ||
| Buellinachinashop |
Whoever owns a Buell and doesn't belong to this board is nuts. This guy went from hopeless to back on the road in probably 1 day thanks to the help from this thread. 15 posts and problem fixed. nice work and thanks for all the info everybody shares. | ||
| Bcordb3 |
I have used helicoils on a few different applications, on motorcycles and on my boat engine. The Timesert looks like a good fix. | ||
| Jlnance |
I agree somewhat about torque not always being critical, but a service manual's torque specs should be perfect and they should never lead to stripped parts if the owner does go by the manual and uses a fairly good torque wrench. I don't know if the torque specs are right in the manual or not. As you say, they certainly should be. One complicating factor is that the correct torque value is dependent on how much friction there is between the mating threads. If oil is present on the threads, the necessary torque value will be different. This makes specifying a torque value for something like an oil drain plug problematic. | ||
| Jlnance |
Flatbusted - That sounds cool. Can you give more details? | ||
| Flatbusted |
Jlnance- PN# 718 could be found on Touring 1981 to 1984,FXR's 1982-1990 as the Primary drain plug and the XR750 1970 - 1979 for the crankcase.Customers I have had with similar situations , be it incorrect service manuals or mis-understanding the torque values ends up pulling the threads outta the aluminum oil pans rather then replace at $200. Plus ,They are pleased to learn possibly a simple fix for a few dollars may work . } | ||
| Flatbusted |
And sorry the plug retails for $4.00 not 2.50 | ||
| Semirgdj |
Alot of Buell's torque specs seem to be a little to high (wrong). And I use the best torque wrench I know of so I know the wernch is not wrong | ||
| Cmm213 |
I also had problems with the xb torque specs, I think some of them are crazy high. I just bottom out the drain plugs and then give them a 1/8 to 1/4 turn with a wrench. I had spun the threads on my pinch bolt on the swing arm, I was so pissed. | ||
| Fullpower |
I safety wire both drain plugs on my XB, and would not recommend using such an absurdly high torque value as mis-stated in the service manual. also, there is no point whatsoever in putting loctite on a fastener run into oiled threads. the compound referenced in the service manual is (i believe) a pipe thread sealant. | ||
| Buellerandy |
Hey Richard, If your still thinking about what to do, I have an 06 swingarm from a wrecked firebolt that I spray painted matte black and clear coated it with a matte finish. There were some scratches on it from the last guy but they're covered up now. I'd sell it for 50 USD which is what I paid for it. I was going to try to use it on my 04 but there was more than just the swingarm I was going to have to play with just to get it to work so I bought an 04 instead and just kept the 06. |
