Author |
Message |
Draxel_teg
| Posted on Friday, June 08, 2007 - 12:58 pm: |
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I just recently placed a order with Odie to get a Special OPS pipe for my 2003 XB9S. I haven't got the pipe yet but it should be coming soon, I know Odie is a busy man so I figured I would ask the few questions I have here. How hard is it to swap the exhausts out? I haven't had any reason to disassemble my bike yet so I am not sure what all is involved. I am assuming that the entire project should take a hour or so and should be relatively easy but then again assuming could end up costing me money and time. Is there anything I should look out for I am sure those of you that have done it have some tips & tricks you could share? Also is there any parts or tools I am going to need to complete the project? Thanks in advance for the help |
Mdm
| Posted on Friday, June 08, 2007 - 01:33 pm: |
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15-20 mins tops, on a rear stand. Difficulty rating, 1 banana |
Tq_freak
| Posted on Friday, June 08, 2007 - 03:59 pm: |
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20-25 min with it just on the side stand if you don't have the rear stand. its not hard at all, just like changing the cheese on a ham sandwich. |
Bads1
| Posted on Friday, June 08, 2007 - 04:17 pm: |
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Draxel, You'll need a extension and a swivel on the socket to get at the rear muffler straps. Take off the front sprocket cover and to get at those straps go through the Pulley tensioner wheel slots if you have to,to get them loosened |
Thelumox
| Posted on Friday, June 08, 2007 - 05:42 pm: |
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exactly. the manual has you taking the idler pulley off. with the extention, it's like changing socks. tighten header clamp last. |
Draxel_teg
| Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 10:54 am: |
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Thanks for the replies, I figured it wouldn't be very hard but it is always better to check first |
Wantxbr
| Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 11:00 am: |
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This is from the Drummer web site - KD Fabrications. Remove the Air box cover by removing the 4 T27 torx screws that hold it in place. Don’t lose the screws and plastic washers. Loosen the lock nuts on the mechanical muffler valve cable and disconnect it from the servo motor. Leave the servomotor in place with its electrical wires connected. Carefully work the mechanical cable past the engine to free it completely. You will have to cut some wire ties and then replace them later. Remove the chin fairing by removing the 7 torx screws that hold it in place. Don't loose the plastic washers. Loosen the rear axle pinch bolt on the underside of the swingarm. Using the rear axle removal tool from the kit unscrew the rear axle 20 full turns. This loosens the drive belt tension. Remove the front belt guard by removing the 3 torx screws that hold it in place. Don't loose the plastic washers. Unscrew the 2 nuts that retain the belt tensioner and pull the tensioner off of its studs. The studs are a close fit on the holes in the tensioner so be sure to pull off in a straight even manner. Don't try to pry it off. If it sticks then push it back on all the way and try again to pull it off straight. Loosen the torcon clamp on the muffler's inlet. Loosen and remove the front band clamp and the two rear band clamps that hold the muffler to the engine. Work the muffler off of the header by twisting slightly and you are done. (Message edited by wantxbr on June 09, 2007) |
Beachbuell
| Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2007 - 11:56 am: |
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A wise move would be to "relocate" the straps so that they are easier to get to next time. I have my three strap buckles facing the left (jiffystand) of the bike so they are readily accessable. |
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