| Author | Message | ||
     Sparky |
Update: I was able to reproduce Troll's first posting of problems on an 03 XB9R by removing the second diode and reinstalling it backwards with the arrow pointing right. I got the same thing: Gauges sweep. No fuel pump. No oil light. No start. No clicking or clacking like starter or battery. One more thing though, no neutral light. The theory The neutral light switch provides a ground to the ignition relay through the second diode; so if the second diode is faulty, A) the engine may crank if the clutch lever is pulled in but not run if the sidestand is down, or B) the engine won't crank if the clutch lever is released. The first diode provides a ground to the ignition relay through the clutch switch, so the engine will run if the clutch is pulled in. The sidestand switch provides a ground to the ignition relay directly, so the engine runs with the sidestand up. Also, second diode is in series with the first diode and that completes the starter interlock so that you can start the bike in gear with the sidestand down. But when you release the clutch, it dies. Interestingly enough, after I had reinstalled the second diode the correct way (arrow pointing left), the bike did not fix itself. Now I did it, but what did I do? Well I examined very carefully the fuse block where the diodes go. And it is possible to insert the diode in its place but miss the contacts in the fuse block as there is space below the blade contacts to hold the diodes but not make contact. So, Troll, check this possibility out. | ||
| Buelltroll |
Well its not the diodes. Both facing right n still same. I might dig into the switches but the kickstand switch is all heatshrunk so I dunno. This happend once before,Died like this at the pump. But that time it was the starter going out n had done the clanky startup for a week or so before hand. | ||
| Wantxbr |
Sparky's are pointing LEFT though. You accidentally write right instead of left? If NOT turn them around and try again. | ||
| Buelltroll |
Yes I did. Stealership is coming to pick it up on the 8th. 10k service is about6k overdue anyway... Guess I'm caging it for a couple weeks unless I feel like gettin dirty n tearing into it. That usually doesn't help anyway. | ||
| Sparky |
You are not being very clear. Did you install both diodes with the arrow pointing left or not? Let's just say you did and are still having a starting problem. You can check the sidestand switch without taking anything apart or getting dirty. But you need a $15 DVOM from an auto parts store or Radio Slack. Here's how: Remove the first diode (the one in the first row, upper right in the fuse block). Set the DVOM to read resistance (ohms). With the ignition key off, measure resistance from the first diode's right contact on the fuse block to anywhere metal on the frame. With the sidestand down the DVOM should read infinity. With the sidestand up the DVOM should read continuity. Be careful here because you have to be straddling the motorcycle, holding it up while putting the sidestand up doing this test.  This simple test will determine if the sidestand switch and related wiring works. If you don't get continuity with the sidestand up, either the switch could be bad or there could be a break in the wiring from the switch to the fuse block's right terminal of the first row diode. If troubleshooting of the wiring is needed at this point, then disconnect the switch from the harness and check the tan/white wire pin in the harness connector for continuity to the fuse block's right terminal of the first row diode. | ||
| Buelltroll |
Both dioades facing left. With the stand UP the meter is off the scale,Down is zero. While I was in there I tested the ignition and acc fuses couldn't get a reading from the ignition fuse. WTF does that mean? Souldn't that read SOMETHING? I tested it with all the different settings on the meter and both key on and off. Zero every time. | ||
| Rsh |
When my 2003 XB9R had symptoms like your having it was the speed sensor that was bad. Mine would blow the ignition fuse the second I touched the power on rocker switch from off to on. That is assuming you have the original 03 speed sensor. I have replaced mine with the updated version and that one went out not to long after my stator went out and now I am on my second updated speed sensor. Anyway if you are not getting any continuity through the ignition fuse replace it with one of the spares and disconnect the speed sensor connector and then see if everything will operate normally. If it does you need a new speed sensor. (Message edited by rsh on May 28, 2007) (Message edited by rsh on May 28, 2007) | ||
| Buelltroll |
The fuses are all good none have blown and are not blowing. I don't think the speedo sensor would not let the fuel pump prime. | ||
| Rsh |
In your previous post you said you were not getting a reading from the ignition fuse so either it is blown or you made an error in checking it. Also have you checked the main fuse under the seat. | ||
| Buelltroll |
I took it out and looked at it. You test them by using the multi meter red to right fuse HOLE black to ground. So it's not getting power TO the ignition fuse. If the main fuse was blown the gauges wouldn't sweep and their would be no headlight. (Message edited by buelltroll on May 28, 2007) | ||
| Buelltroll |
So were to from here? Why would it not be getting any power to the ignition fuse? | ||
| Jwhite601 |
Its one of these 4 things,1 bad switch(handlebar), 2 bad key switch relay, 3 bad ignition relay, 4 broken wire somewhere. According to my wiring diagram one side of the ignition fuse goes to the switch relay, the other side to the ignition relay. I got a feeling its the thumbswitch, get a little ruff with it. | ||
| Sparky |
Well, we're making progress. But can you double check this statement regarding the sidestand test, "With the stand UP the meter is off the scale,Down is zero."? That's not right. With the key off & when the stand is up, it should read 0 ohms (not volts) from the first row upper right fuse block terminal to the frame. And with the stand down, it should read an open circuit. Now regarding not getting a reading from the ignition fuse. Let's check it again. Make sure all the fuses and diodes are installed except pull the ignition fuse. Set the meter to read DC volts & put the red lead on the right terminal (5), second row from the bottom in the fuse block and the black lead on the frame. With the key on, you should read approx 12 VDC. Key off, 0 VDC. If you don't get 12 VDC, that's the problem. I'll follow up with some things to look for, mainly where the 12 VDC might get lost from the Main Fuse to terminal (5) in the fuse block. | ||
| Buelltroll |
With the stand UP it reads off the scale in ohms. I think thats right because with it down you cant start it or anything because of the safety switch. ZERO power from the ignition fuse. | ||
| Sparky |
You are saying "it reads off the scale in ohms". Do you mean full scale, in other words, infinity (open circuit)? If so, where are you putting the meter leads? | ||
| Buelltroll |
Red one in the right hole were the diode goes and black to a bolt in the triple clamp. I dunno if its infinity or whatever it jumps all the way to the end of the scale. (Message edited by buelltroll on May 29, 2007) | ||
| Buelltroll |
So were to go from here??? | ||
| Wantxbr |
I'd like to help but im a bit ignorant with Buells thats why im here trying to learn. But to me the way your describing your testing of the kickstand switch doesn't sound correct. How many wires goto the KS switch? Color of wiring would be helpful also. (Message edited by wantxbr on May 29, 2007) (Message edited by wantxbr on May 29, 2007) | ||
| Toona |
Buelltroll, your kickstand switch is OK. With the KS up, the meter needle sweeps all the way to the right-indicating that you have a completed path. With the KS down, the needle doesn't move-indicating that the "path" is open-as it should. Sorry, but I haven't gotten into the electrical part of my Buell yet, so I am of little help there. | ||
| Buelltroll |
THATS what I was saying and thanks for putting it into words people other than myself can understand. | ||
| Wantxbr |
Sorry just trying to help and learn. I'll keep my nose out. | ||
| Buelltroll |
Not directed at you or anyone in general just kept seeming to come back to the kickstand switch. | ||
| Sparky |
OK, the meter jumps full scale (indicating zero ohms) with the sidestand up. That's good. And you said "down is zero" which, reading between the lines, I think you meant the meter does not move. That's perfect! Your sidestand switch is good. OK, why no 12 volts when there should be? The test you did back on 5/28 5:03 pm sounded like it should work. Try it again same spot in the fuse block (terminal 5 with the ignition fuse out, correct?) but put the meter black lead on the battery negative terminal to ensure a reliable ground. The meter should read 0 volts with key off. Turn the key on. What volts do you get? Gauges still sweep? This will test the Key Switch relay to see if it can switch on the 12 VDC from the 30 Amp Main Fuse. And you're right about the main fuse, if it were bad, the gauges wouldn't sweep. | ||
| Cheesebeast |
Did you replace the relays? Open up the box on the (clutch) side of the fairing. Do the relays have this part#: 3152X-00B? That is off of an old relay that I have. There is a newer version of these relays. If nothing else it will be one less thing that will go funky on you in the future. | ||
| Cheesebeast |
Oh, and again- what voltage is your battery reading? | ||
| Buelltroll |
Battery is reading 100%. Relays are the same number except for the bottom on it is blablabla-00C. How do I test relays? red in the hole black to ground didn't work. | ||
| Buelltroll |
So now what? | ||
| Sparky |
You turned the key on and got no volts on terminal 5 of the fuse block? If so, I would suggest marking the Key Switch relay with a K using a Sharpie or magic marker, marking the Start relay with a S and the Ignition relay with a I so that they don't get mixed up. Then swap the Key switch relay with the Start relay and repeat the key-on test. Do you get 12 VDC now? I'm suspecting the Key switch relay may be bad. Hopefully the Start relay is in good condition, so we are replacing a suspect bad relay for a known good one. There is a procedure to test the individual relays in the manual on page 7-17, but let's try swapping relays first. | ||
| Sparky |
Let me repeat that. You have to turn the Key on in order to read 12 VDC on terminal 5 of the fuse block. You didn't mention that in your last dialog. When you turn the key on, do the gauges still sweep? | ||
| Buelltroll |
Yes they still sweep and yes I turned the key on when testing the ignition fuse. I'm gonna go try mixing the relays. Two of them are the same but the one on bottom is different. (Message edited by buelltroll on May 30, 2007) |
