| Author | Message | ||
     Caféelite |
06 XB9 CityX - 2800 miles Issue Tried to start the bike tonight and it just turned over but did not fire off. I gave it a little gas and it popped of but did not stay running. I turned the idlling screw a quarter turn and this got the bike running but in the 250 to 500 rpm range. Played w/ the idling screw tell it was around 1100rpms and it stayed running but as soon as I put it in gear it popped and shut off. I have road the bike to work (40mile round trip) all week and it has ran fine. Tonight I took off the mirrors and tail piece which I chopped the cheese gratter piece off. The only thing is that I didnt hook up the rear blinkers or license plate light. I did hook them back up just in case but still same issue. Did not touch any other electrical or engine based items.... So just my luck, I leave the bike stock for the longest time and when I get a whim to change the look it does not want to run.... The only thing that I can think is that on the way home I got gas at a phillip 66 station which I normally do QT. The bike ran fine home so I doubt that is it but that is the only thing I can think of. Any suggestions? | ||
| Beachbuell |
You say that the bike popped but would not stay running........ First I would check the plugs, on e might be fouled from that pop. I would also try this.......... Turn your key to on, hit kill switch to on, let fuel pump cycle, then pin the throttle to full open and hit the start button with the throttle wide open. See if that works. Sounds like your bike MIGHT be flooded out. | ||
| Corporatemonkey |
Simple check, have you checked if your battery connections are tight? Mine loosened ever so slightly one day, and as soon as I put it into gear (ie. when I CLUNKED into gear) that was enough to cause the engine to die. I tightened the cables back up, and all was well again. | ||
| Spatten1 |
hit the start button with the throttle wide open. Any time I've touched the throttle at startup it has fouled my front plug (on an XB). Beach: has it worked for you in the past to hold it wide open if a plug is fuel fouled (on an XB)? | ||
| Sub65chris |
beach buell is right check your plugs and corporate monley is also right check the battery leads , on thing i will add is to try running it with out the air filter or at least try to start it without and see what happens. One last thing does the exhaust smell like unburned fuel? | ||
| Asym50 |
Cafe, this may have no bearing on your situation. I took off the rear reflectors last weekend along with "shortening" the front turn signals. I noticed in general, all the electrical wiring is very fragile and prone to exposure when sliding the blinker wiring through the washers and bolts. The insulation gets peeled and isn't really obvious unless you look close. I ended up patching with electrical tape. Thought I would mention this since you've been working on the rear lights. | ||
| Caféelite |
Pulled and replaced both plugs, both plugs looked the same where they were a dry black(lean?). I managed to brake the front plug wire w/ I made the dealship RPL since it is not to pull apart easly. So the bike will start first time and run but its only running on the rear cyclinder. The check engine light comes on, bike does not sound as smooth and the exhaust pipe coming from cyclinder one stays chill. I pulled the plug and checked the gap and rpl'd again just to be safe. The only thing I can think of is to switch the plug wires to see if the new one is not working. Any other suggestions? | ||
| Beachbuell |
Check you header pipe connections for an exhaust leak. This is very easily done by starting the bike, let it idle and spray some parts cleaner around the area of the head pipe to heads connection. If the idle drops or goes up then you have a leak. The idle should not be affected at all when you spray the parts cleaner, if it does, then its leaking. A black plug is a rich condition (too much gas), white plugs = lean. Caramel or brown in color is what you want. | ||
| Caféelite |
Well read the manual finally about error codes. Based off what I can see im getting error code 24 which indicates from plug wire(coil). Thats w/ the new wire so I swapped the new wire to the rear and the rear to the front. The bike started for a minute, both headers got warm but as soon as I put it in gear it went back to one cyclinder(exhaust note). So looks like im w/o a bike for a good time now.. im pissed.. really pissed. I have no clue at this point.. (Message edited by caféelite on May 26, 2007) | ||
| Sparky |
Actually code 24 indicates a problem with the front coil not increasing in current (rise time). Correct me if I'm wrong, but that, to me, means either a break in the 12 VDC wire to the coil or a bad coil, not necessarily a bad plug wire. You might get in there again and try removing and reinstalling the 3-wire plug on the coil. There could be corrosion or some other electrical contact related glitch in the hookup. Then again it could be a wire harness problem between the ECM and the coil. | ||
| Beachbuell |
I have seen a few ignition coils get fried and actually melt and crack. Great point guys! Check it out! | ||
| Caféelite |
Well do you think this is my issue  What would cause this to crack, and it appears it cannot be taken further apart to inspect.   | ||
| Cityxslicker |
Damn CityX mojo voodoo, Mine did the exact same thing this morning. Flipping plugs are hard as hell to change on the road, away from the garage.  Maybe I am loading up when I am off roading... I refuse to stop doing that though | ||
| Cozzer |
I had exactly the same problem on my '05 XB12S, even the crack was in the same place. It would run on 1 cylinder and then blow the 15 amp ignition fuse. A replacement took 4 working days, cost £43 (UK) and took about 10 minutes to change. Anyone know why this happens? I never leave the ignition on longer than 1 minute with starting it. | ||
| Ds_tiger |
Great thread- getting to the bottom of a problem post haste! | ||
| Lost_in_ohio |
It should still be under warranty.... | ||
| Cityxslicker |
The shop guys just roll their eyes at me when I try and get a warranty claim. I am so far out of how you are "supposed" to be riding this bike... Its just too damn addictive in the dirt and mud to resist | ||
| Beachbuell |
That coil is junk. get a new and I bet your problems go away. Excessive heat is more than likely what caused it to crack. | ||
| Saintly |
I had two coils fail on my 03 9R. The first had cracks(plural) in the insulating material, like yours does. The second failed coil had a dark brown spot in the otherwise yellowish looking material. When I dug out the jello-consistency with a pocketknife I found that the copper winding inside half of the coil had burned badly. | ||
| Brumbear |
leaving an ignition key on for any extended period withoutb the motor running of course or if you leave a battery charger hooked up with the key on will cause this but otherwise it has to be a manufactoring problem. | ||
| Ironhead1977 |
This is one of the best threads yet. Problem identified- solution found. | ||
| Caféelite |
I freakin love this bike... So I drive 40min's to pick up the RPL ignition coil module. Get home and replace it, check the sp cables and make sure everything is connected... Guess what... you ready for it.. really, are you? HA cylinder one is still not firing. Still throwing error 24 so the only thing I can think of is that there is a wiring issue. Now I need to figure a way to get my bike to the dealership... So my guess is that the month of may sucks. My 5yr relationship failed, xbox 360 failed, 37in LG LCD produced a bad pixel and my bike is messing w/ me. I need a shoulder to cry on :P | ||
| Wantxbr |
Trace the wiring see if any are damaged. | ||
| Cityxslicker |
Great now I have to have them pull the lil black box and see if it is cracked. Why do I have the feeling that the part is on back order ? ( | ||
| Caféelite |
Yesterday I called Gails HD to come get my bike. Well they never called me back so I decide to break out the voltmeter. The plug that goes into the ingnition coil has three holes in a row. One for the front coil(C), middle is gnd(B), and one for the rear coil(A). The books says that C should route to pin 6 on the black plug that goes into the ECU while B goes to 7 and A goes to 1. I think I am wrong a little there but it was those three pins just do not recall the order. Well I didnt get the results I expected out of those direction but I was getting results out of diff pins like 1, 2, and I think 4. I think this weekend I am going to give it another go just to verify though. Either way after reseating the connections and putting everything back together my bike started. I didnt do anything besides reseat the the two connectors in the ECU and the one in the ignition coil. I still plan on riding the bike down to lawrence this weekend and see if they will just take a quick look... hopefully the will. I would just like to say thanks to all the people that threw out ideas to assist me in this issue. | ||
| Cityxslicker |
So if running the battery tender will do that... what about running heated gear all winter long? That is the only way I was able to ride this winter every day except 3 days. I gotta have that worked out before next winter . And my ECM is a race ECM so they are saying it is not under factory warranty (even though they installed it, I bought it from Buell direct, and it was part of the original bike sale at time of purchase, when Buell was still doing those parts) Where is my logic Hammer? | ||
| Sparky |
No, leaving the key on with ignition current going through the coil without the engine running is the problem. The battery tender has nothing to do with it. |
