| Author | Message | ||
     Alstroker |
I was changing out my plugs for my 10000 mile service last week when I came across a problem. The rear plug was cross threaded into the head. I believe the dealer had done this before I had even purchased the bike new. I have never touched the plugs before this and I find it hard to believe that this was done at the factory. It is not uncommon for the dealers to change the plugs as I have been told they are prone to fouling when new. This is just uncalled for and yet another reason I don't let dealers work on my bikes anymore. Right now my chassis is hanging from and engine lift with the drivetrain sitting on jack-stands. I had to remove the head to repair the threads. The plug was only threaded half way into the head(can't believe it sealed) so I had good threads on the cylinder side. Now I am just waiting on new gaskets to get everything back together. | ||
| Tx05xb12s |
I've got a buddy of mine that the dealership did the same thing to him on his 9S. The crummy part is he figured out what had happened on the way to Galveston with me one day when he blew the plug out going down the road. Cost us two hours on the side of the road waiting on a tow back to the dealership. I think it took them about three weeks to get his bike back to him. I understand he also had the requisite argument with the service manager about who cross-threaded what, followed by the showing of service receipts for spark plugs and a tuneup, and eventually followed grudgingly with a work order for warranty work. Sorry to hear about your bike. I won't let anyone else work on mine either anymore. The one time I brought mine in for work, I got it back damaged and in worse condition than I gave it to them in. I have since then found what I believe to be a good dealership in my area, but I still don't do anything but go by and say hello a few times a year. | ||
| Irideabuell |
I recently changed my own plugs for the first time during the 20,000 mile service. I followed the steps outlined in the service manual to a "T". While it took me longer than it should of, I used the tools I was instructed to use and it was really quite easy. Next time it will take me no time at all. | ||
| Cereal |
Same kind of thing happened to me. I bought a repoed bike, was out riding one day and POW! Rear plug blew out. The threads were gone. All of them. I had to have it helicoiled. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Putting some graphite based antiseize on the threads on the plug is a good idea. The heat will cook the grease or oil away over time but the graphite is forever and will keep the threads from getting seized. Steel spark plugs in aluminum heads can lead to a lot of "unluckyness". I been using the same small can of antiseize compound for about 20 years. Put a light dab on the threads and turn it between your fingers to get a small amount in the first few threads. And never put a wrench on a plug until you have a few turns of engagement by hand. Never. Jack | ||
| Cmm213 |
Mine had a cross threaded plug in the rear also. My friends dad is a machinist so he had the tap, 12 mm 1.25 I think that is what it was. But we ran the tap through a few times and it as been fine since. I dont know how bad of shape yours was in but it worked for me. After we tapped it we blew out the cylinder and made a cool little vacume tube to go down into the head. Then also cranked the motor without the plug to blow any pieces still remaining. Remember to pull the rear plug wire off because if it arcs on the head it will scare the piss out of you and maybe leave you deff! | ||
| Buellcityx |
My rear plug was cross threaded as well on my xb9sx, only had 1300 miles and the dealer did the 1,000 mile. Thats why i do my own work. i bought the bike used so i'm not sure if the first owner did it or if the dealer did it, either way i was pissed. luckily the new plug screwed in with resistance. All i can say is i hope the plug lasts a long long time......... 2600 miles on the bike now, all is good. i didn't start at all last winter in fear of a foul, i just kept the battery charged. parked 4 months | ||
| Cgocifer |
Hmmm, not sure if the dealer would go through the trouble changing plugs with only 1300 miles on the clock. Who knows? I recently changed my plugs due to fouling. I too followed the service manual's instructions. As with any threaded item, I made sure the threads were started by hand very slowly and carefully before putting a wrench to 'em. Also, as per the instructions in the manual, I used anti-sieze. Any time you have steel in contact with aluminum, you'll have corrosion caused by electrolysis due to the properties of dissimilar metals. Must use anti-sieze! There was some on the original plugs too, which made them come out pretty easily. | ||
| Buelldyno_guy |
Try taking a straight 12 inch piece of black vacuum or fuel line that fits tight over the insulator of the plug. Use it to screw the plug all the way in by hand. When it is seated simply pull the hose off and then tighten it. Be aware that some types of universal plug sockets put a side load on the plug if used for starting it into the threads. ... Terry | ||
| Cmm213 |
I have a small notch in my sub-frame so I can use a 12" extension with no wobbly. | ||
| Paochow |
I haven't had a problem putting in the rear plug, but installing the rear Magnacore wire was a complete PITA. Took about 1hr of swearing and sweating to get that little click. | ||
| Cgocifer |
hahahahaha +1, lot's of swearing! I think the cloud of profanities is still hovering around the upper atmosphere somewhere. | ||
| Fulgur |
I must have little hands as I can spin both plus in from under the frame and just tweak them up with the socket. I also use NGK Iridium plugs with NGK plugcaps on the HT leads. This makes getting the caps on and off well easy. I had the front pot missing and dying in heavy rain and the NGK plug caps sorted that so I didn't actually change it to help with servicing. ......Fulgur. |
