| Author | Message | ||
     Gentleman_jon |
Several recent posts have raised several issues that seem to center around the primary chain case, namely: 1. Smooth shifting. 2. Failure of the threads in the primary inspection port retaining screws. As the weather in the East had turned unexpectedly clement, and since Lil' Blackie did not seem to be engaging gear as smoothly as perhaps she had in the past, I wheeled my machine into the "race shop", ( my driveway), and determined to poke around a bit, and record my observations, should any items of interest present themselves. I decided to look at three areas: 1. Clutch adjustment 2. Primary Chain adjustment 3. Primary chain case oil level First I adjusted the clutch as per the instructions in the shop manual - loosen the cable, remove the clutch inspection port, screw the clutch adjustment screw out until it lightly stops, and then back in a half a turn, squeeze the clutch three times, and retighten cable. Whilst had the inspection screws out, ( I had replaced the stock screws with stainless allen heads, (1/4-20 x 3/4" I think they were), I stuck a tooth pick into the screw holes to see how deep they were. As I suspected, they seemed to be a bit longer than the screws I was using. That suggested to me that brothers whose screw holes have stripped, might try a slightly longer screw before resorting to a Helicoil or a new primary case. I also suspect that Loctite "Form A Thread" might help repair failed threads, but I have not be able to find anyone who has actually used it. As I closed the inspection ports, I applied a little blue Loctite to the threads, even though not called for in the Shop Manual, because Loctite maintains that not only does the thread blocker retain the screws, but in the case of dissimilar metals, (an all too common situation on the Buell), it fills the thread and thus prevents the corrosion that is a major element in thread failure. 2. I then checked the primary oil and chain. The chain was a bit loose, almost an inch, and the oil level seemed to be down a tiny bit, about an 1/8". Mileage was 6850. I adjusted the primary chain play to about 5/8" cold, a bit more than called for in the book, and added a few ounces of oil, to bring it just to the bottom of the clutch gear as shown in the manual. The results were gratifying. The unit shifted much more smoothly, and did not grind going into first. A purposeful shift into first resulted in the reassuring "clunk" that I remember, with none of the grinding I had been experiencing lately. As this is the earlier model gear box, (2004), this suggests that previous reports that "grinding" going into first is inevitable might not be correct, and that it may be able to be fixed with a careful adjustment routine. I also noticed that the rear wheel no longer slowly turned when the motor was on, with the bike in neutral, and the rear wheel on the stand, as it had done previously, showing that there might have been a bit of clutch drag. Always nice when the patient responds to a simple treatment. Doesn't happen every time, does it?  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
He said "unit".  Great post! | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Jeremy, Glad you enjoyed the post. My friend Christine and I were wondering if there is something funny about the word "unit"? | ||
| Tpoppa |
screw the clutch adjustment screw out until it lightly stops, and then back in a half a turn The manual says 1/4 turn. Do you notice anything different with 1/2 turn? I've been reading about helicoils. They sounds like a simple, permanent solution that is an improvement over stock. I'm going to do all 5 bolts on the primary cover. I'll post my results. Also, I just removed the clutch cable from the clutch lever and lubed it with some teflon-based chain and cable lube. My clutch pull has never felt so easy or smooth.  | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Poppa, My shop manual, 2004, says 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Since I suspected some clutch drag, I gave it 1/2 turn. Maybe I should have done 1/4? In any event, it works very nicely now, just like when it was new, so I can't really complain. Does anyone know what the difference might be? Perhaps you know this already, but since the primary case holes are short and sealed at the ends, you will need a special tap to tap them for the Helicoils, and will need to be careful not to drill through the case. Just a little bit trickier Helicoil install than some. I might suggest the Loctite Form A Thread as a start. Hard to find though. Looking forward to your report. | ||
| Reepicheep |
On my M2, I heli-coiled 3 of 4 derby cover screws, and at least two primary cover bolts, with just the tap included in the standard auto parts heli-coil kit. It was holding fine tens of thousands of miles later when I sold the bike. Oh, and my real question is what does "lightly bottom" mean? Just first perceptibly touching? Finger tight to where it stops "free spinning"? Finger tight until it snugs up? That's where I always wonder if I am getting it right or not... (Message edited by reepicheep on April 24, 2007) | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Reep - Thanks for the report. I was thinking that a square ended tap might be needed, but I guess either the tap that comes with the kit is square ended, or the coil can accommodate a tapered hole. In any event, thanks for pointing out that it will work. As far as you question as to exactly what "lightly bottom" means, I share your confusion. On the compression and rebound screws on the forks, it's pretty obvious. On the Buell clutch, the screw is pretty spongy. I just used two fingers on the screw driver. After doing it three or four times, I convinced myself I had found the spot, or at least that I was getting close. That's all I know! | ||
| Cycleaddict |
on the clutch screw i always tend to lean more to the 1/2 turn adjust because you want to make sure that there is no pressure on that tiny "throw-out"(?) bearing & making sure that the clutch is fully engaged ! us you fingertips on a med. to small screw driver , turn in & out 2-3 times then count your 1/2 turn out. now if we could just get some type of auto. primary chain adjuster that "works" that would be awesome . | ||
| Tpoppa |
ahhh...the Manual for the 03's say 1/4 turn on the clutch adjust. Is the 04 clutch the same? Did they just update the spec for 04? | ||
| Djkaplan |
"My shop manual, 2004, says 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Since I suspected some clutch drag, I gave it 1/2 turn." I believe you'd be better off with 1/8 of a turn if clutch drag is the issue instead of 1/2 of a turn. The less turns, the more the clutch will disengage when you pull the lever. The adjustment screw becomes 'looser' (more turn) as the clutch wears. The whole reason for the adjustment is to bring it back into the correct range. Buellistic recommended a 1/8 turn to me years ago. It was the first reply I ever got on the BadWeb 7 years ago. If I never thanked you Buellistic, I am now... you exclamation point abusing denizen of the BadWeb...!!!!!!!!! | ||
| Reepicheep |
And don't confuse "I got lucky" with "I did it right"...  | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Thanks Danny. Makes sense. |
