| Author | Message | ||
     Hellonwheels |
Hey guys Im getting ready to change out the front brake pads and just wondering if there is any special tools or tips I will need or is it just straight forward pull the cailper off and then compress piston and then drop in new pads and done? Ive never done one on a bike but done many many cars... just looking for some feed back....thanks | ||
| Terribletim |
I did them on my Harley. Pretty much like a car. If you've done those, you should be fine. | ||
| Olinxb12r |
It's easy as could be. It sounds like you've got it covered. | ||
| Isham |
Dustin it's pretty easy. I'd say easier than a car. | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
While you are at it, you might think about upgrading your pads. Many members, myself included, are very happy with the Lyndall Gold pads from American Sport Bike, one of our sponsors. They give better feel, and do not leave deposits on the rotor like the stock pads. Those deposits can lead to a pulsing when the brakes are used. | ||
| Hellonwheels |
I would love to upgrade the pads but I think i going to have to wait till next time Ive waited till the last minute to change them and I cant wait for them to come in the mail I had knee surgery on thursday and Im doing them monday as soon as I can walk again.. Nexttime I will upgrade | ||
| Terribletim |
LOL! Reasons I procrastinate. . . 1) | ||
| Spike |
It's been a while since I changed the pads on my XB so I'm relying on my memory, but I think you can get away without removing the caliper. There's a single bolt/pin going through the outside of the caliper that is holding the pads in place. If you remove that the pads will just slide out to the outside of the wheel. It's sort of a tight fit between the pads and the edge of the wheel, it helps to compress the pistons before removing the old pads to allow more wiggle room. Just to be on the safe side it's probably a good idea to apply some duct/racer/masking tape to the rim in the area where you'll be pulling the pads to prevent scratching the wheel. | ||
| Glitch |
Many members, myself included, are very happy with the Lyndall Gold pads from American Sport Bike, one of our sponsors BUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ I just can't get used to that BUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ | ||
| Terribletim |
Sounds like you need a Drummer! Drown that out! LOL! | ||
| Ezblast |
Killllllllllllllllllllllllll Galfer Sintered Brake Pads are still your best bet as far as performance - see Al at American Sport Bike - GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Nutsnbolt |
No... What you do is remove the bottom bolt holding the caliper. Loosen the top but leave it in. Then, that will allow you enough room to slide caliper forward and in this order... Remove Right side pad first, then that will allow enough room to remove the left. Then, compress the pistons then put in the left side pad, then the right, and then tighten bolts and pump the front brake about 5-8 times and then you should be good to go. I've changed the brakes about 4 times. This is the best way so far. Mark | ||
| Fdl3 |
Nutsnbolt: Nice! I'll be trying out that procedure today... | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Excellent suggestion Nuts. Perhaps things would go just a little bit easier if the Pin Hanger Screw, the little screw just in front of the middle pad on the caliper, is removed before removing the pads, and replaced after they are installed. Right? | ||
| Al_lighton |
I dunno, I just plan my pad swaps to be when I have the front wheel off. Two pinch bolts, axle, two fender bolts, and you're there. I like having full access to the caliper when I change pads. I like to remove the pads, gently compress the lever and push the pistons VERY carefully a little bit further out than they were, and clean the exposed piston surfaces PRIOR to pushing them back in for the new thicker pads. If you don't do this, you push the crap that has accumulated onto the pistons back into the seals, and make the pads more likely to drag. If you do it with the wheel off, you don't need to worry about getting brake cleaner on your wheels or tires. And nothing is in the way to give the pistons a good scrub down with a toothbrush and brake cleaner. Al | ||
| Fdl3 |
Nutsnbolt: That procedure worked like a champ! New Lyndall Gold pads installed... | ||
| Nutsnbolt |
Yeah... The pin is a gimmie, though. As I was typing that a few days ago, I thought to myself...."Self... someone is going to tell you that you need to take the pin hanger bolt off." Then I thought... "Hey, that's pretty obvious... I'll just get to the meat of the coconut and tell him how to make this easier." However, I suppose I had it coming. It's cool though, Gentleman John. No hard feelings. Fdl3..... Glad it worked out for ya. All others, take notes. There's an expression in the Marines... "Work Smarter, not Harder." I love that one. There's another... "DoD Policy... Fix It Till It's Broke." Later, Skaters.. Mark | ||
| Pokinatcha |
Do the front rotor bolts need to be replaced along with the bushings? | ||
| Nutsnbolt |
Yes... Absolutely. If replacing the Rotor, or taking the rotor off at all.... Replace the bolts and bushings and washers and all of it. It comes as a kit through Al at American Sport Bike and also through your local dealer. Mark | ||
| Pokinatcha |
thank you, do you know if anyone makes a rear wave rotor that looks like the front wave rotor and not like a saw blade? | ||
| Nutsnbolt |
nope | ||
| Pokinatcha |
Is the front wave all its cracked up to be or is it just for looks? | ||
| Nutsnbolt |
Looks I mean, I suppose that it's lighter.... But, most that I know, that have used it, seem to like the way it looks and never mention how it performs. That usually tells me one thing... Later | ||
| Chadhargis |
I'll let you know about the wave rotor. I've got one mounted up to my track wheels, and I'm using the stocker on my road wheels. I should be able to test both back to back and let you know. | ||
| Justin_case |
The wave rotor shaves the crap off your pads better. | ||
| Vaneo1 |
this look like a good thread. I dont know what those other guys are talking about in that other break thread about bleeding brakes to change the pads. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
Pokinatcha ........ Trojan has a rear wave rotor that matches the front one. | ||
| Nutsnbolt |
Yeah. And removing those 4 caliper bolts on the Caliper itself to change brakes. Give me a break. | ||
| Tx05xb12s |
When I put my Lyndalls and wave rotor on, I also cleaned the pistons with denatured alcohol before I pushed them in so they would be less likely to hang up in the caliper later on due to pushing gunk and brake dust back into the calipers. And though it's not necessarily needed, I did go ahead and replace brake fluid front and rear just for grins. Call me a maintenance nazi. The Lyndalls do seem to be superior to the stock pads for street riding as far as power and feel. I just put them on recently and haven't taken the bike out to do any hard riding yet, so I don't know how they'll do when they get good and hot. As for how the wave rotors compare to the stockers, they do seem to be marginally more powerful, they're definitely lighter, and look better too. I didn't spring for the rear wave rotor though. I don't think you'd get much of anything out of it other than looks and slightly reduced weight. I do like the Lyndalls on the rear though. I can actually feel the rear brake now and don't lock it up like I used to do occasionally with the stockers. The stock pads only seemed to have two braking rates...nothing and locked. | ||
| Alchemy |
Doin this for the first time. Do I need brake cleaner? If so, where and how is it used? What is required to compress the caliper, my friend said he uses a C-clamp sometimes. Any suggestions? I am not planning on pulling the wheel at this time as I don't have a workable lift method. |
