| Author | Message | ||
     Isham |
My battery wont last a week with a decent charge if it's not on a battery tender. I tested my charging system and all that stuff checks out ok. Today I decided to take some readings from the fuse box. If anyone who knows the electrical side of buells sees anything wrong please let me know I rode Thursday and now Sunday I get Key Switch 10.5v Fan 10.29V ECM starts at 11v then counts down steady at 10.99,10.98,10.97,10.96,... Brake/Horn 0.01V Key Switch .5amps ECM .595amps Fan .142amps Acc .02ohms Lights .083ohms Horn .083ohms All other fuse I get no power. | ||
| Kowpow225 |
Whaaaaa? So a considerable amount of your fusebox is dead? You should have power on one side of EVERY fuse. BOTH sides if the fuses are good. A little more info could help. What are you trying to do? You should be getting at least 12.6 volts on any and every powered lead regardless of fuse size. I think your battery is toast or the connections between the three components are sketchy. Most importantly the regulator to stator connector needs checked. (Behind front sprocket cover with the big black and red wire.) (Message edited by kowpow225 on February 25, 2007) | ||
| Isham |
With the ignition off the lights and a few other things dont need power. Like I said the stator and regulator check out as they are both new and the battery charges when the bike is on. What im trying to do is find out why my batter wont last more than a week. | ||
| Old_man |
I don't consider myself an expert on electrical circuits, but from the very little I know - from your description, I would check the wire from the battery to the fuse box to make sure it isn't grounded somewhere. | ||
| Akbates21 |
Sounds to me like you have something drawing power and draining your battery. The easiest way to find the problem is to disconnect the positive battery cable and hook a test light up inline. The light will light up because of the draw then begin removing fuses one at a time until you see the light go out when the light goes out you have found the circuit that is drawing current. Then all you have to do is figure out which of the components is causing the draw. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Isham, It sounds like your battery is not holding a charge. If it sat for 3 days (Thursday to Sunday) and there was 10.89V on the battery it is essentially dead. In fact, it would be dead in the low 12's, like 12.1 or 12.2 or so. You need to get the battery charged, see if it is holding a charge okay, then you can start looking for problems with something draining it during storage. The numbers above are meaningless without knowing what the battery voltage was when you shut it off on Thursday. Have you looked at the KV? There are tons of specifics in there on trouble shooting batteries and the charging system. Jack | ||
| Isham |
Jack I've gone through 3 batteries and I'm pretty sure the battery is good. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Key Switch .5amps ECM .595amps Fan .142amps Is that with the ignition *off*? Thats the state you should be testing. If you got those readings with ignition off, no wonder your battery won't last. | ||
| Isham |
Those readings are with the ignition off. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Well ***theres*** your problem... (in my best mythbusters voice). Gotta think about that one. Maybe pull fuses and measure other pulled fuses, and see if yanking one makes the others "better". I can check my bike to verify, but there is no way the bike should be drawing half an amp with the ignition off (unless the fan is running). | ||
| Isham |
I'm not understanding. Could you check your bike, please. I'm about to turn this bike over to a electrical specialist. | ||
| Lord_deathscyte |
The test light as suggested by Akbates12 is you best bet for checking your bike. | ||
| Reepicheep |
When your ignition is turned off, and if the fan is done running, you should not be drawing any power of any significance... meaning you should be drawing no appreciable current. Your total draw should only be enough to keep the ECM clock running maybe, which should take all of .002 amps, maybe less. Something somewhere is drawing power when the ignition is tuned off. That means something is connecting a path from the positive battery terminal to the negative battery terminal when the ignition is in the off position, and doing it through some load on one or more legs of the wiring harness. When you pull fuses, you "break" the electrical connection in legs of the circuit. If you break the leg of wherever you have the fault, everything else may start looking normal and happy. It won't give you an exact answer of where the problem is, but it sure narrows down where you have to look. Unless you got a mis measureing current somehow. There are a number of ways to get it wrong. I don't think you are though, those voltage readings are just as whacked out as your current readings seem. I would do it this way if it were me (with the key removed and the engine cold)... 1) Pull the fuse for the ignition switch. 2) Set up your meter to read milliamps (may require you plug the red lead into a different hole in the meter). 3) Hook up the meter with the black and red leads to each slot where that fuse went (cut up an old fuse maybe and use aligator clips)? 4) Reproduce your .5 amp draw. This can't be right if you see it. 5) start removing *other* fuses from the fuse box. 6) If you pull one and see the meter go to 0 amps, you know you found something of note. Post that back, and if you get a good bit of info for #6, I can dig through some schematics and see if anything jumps out at me. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Key out of ignition, 2005 XB9SX that has been sitting without being started for the last month  Measurements made with a fluke 77 (high end hand held) across the indicated fuse terminals with the fuse pulled. Ignition Fuse: 0.00 volts across, 0.00 mA through Fan Fuse: 11.65 volts across, .00015 mA through. ECM Fuse: 11.00 volts across, .00065 mA through You have a bleeder! | ||
| Bake |
I have seen alternators and voltage regulators leak before. Akbates21 has the solution, except the fan fuse should be pulled if testing warm. Get your battery load tested, bet it's shot from all the charge discharge cycles. (Message edited by bake on February 26, 2007) |
