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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through February 25, 2007 » Front caliper removal « Previous Next »

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Schmitty
Posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 09:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I took the forks off my bike today to put in the new springs. I got to the part about removing the brake caliper and HOLY CRAP. The bolts were so friggin' tight I was worried about ballin' up the threads or wrecking the caliper! It was the first time the caliper had been removed, and it looked like the factory used plenty of Loc-tite on the threads. Is this normal? Should I run a tap through the caliper? What is the thread pitch? Should I use new bolts when I reassemble? Anyone have a similar experience?

Thanks,
Schmitty
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Buelltroll
Posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 09:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

DEFINETLY need new hardware.
Dunno about the rest of your question,but any time you replace brake hardware you should use new.
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Xbob
Posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 10:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

never hurts to run a tap through to clean up the threads.
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Gentleman_jon
Posted on Wednesday, February 21, 2007 - 05:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

never hurts to run a tap through to clean up the threads

Well, almost never. Actually threads should properly be cleaned with a thread chaser, not a tap, as a tap is a sharp cutting tool. Where threads are really damaged, a chaser will more likely push them back into shape than a tap that could ruin the threads.

BTW, the first time I removed these, I found it extremely difficult, as you did. I replaced the bolts with Stainless allen head bolts, and just use a small amount of medium strength thread blocker, ( Loctite Blue that comes in the red tube:-).

One member correctly pointed out that stainless bolts are often less strong than carbon steel, but in this application, the bolts are working in shear, the tensile load is not really important, as it would be, say, on a cylinder head.

Finally, I have just switched over to Loctite "sticks", this is Loctite in a "lipstick" form, that is much easier to use, and makes it easier to not use too much, a common problem at the Buell factory, or so it seems.
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Redponcho
Posted on Wednesday, February 21, 2007 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Use a heat gun to loosen the loctite. And I wouldnt use a tap. Get a thread chaser!
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Firebolteric_ma
Posted on Wednesday, February 21, 2007 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I use an impact to remove them.(start on low work your way up as needed) Came right out like they were out before. I also like the lipstick, um..errr.. Loctite "sticks", been using them since last summer.
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