| Author | Message | ||
     Xbob |
who has had their bike painted by a professional shop? what did it cost? ive got an XBS and want to get it painted. i dont want anything fancy..just a color change. i could just buy new plastics, but ill prob. just get what i have painted. anyone paid to have their stuff done? | ||
| Dongalonga |
I will be sending some pieces out to be powdercoated soon. I will let you know how much it runs. | ||
| Xbob |
im more interested in the plastics - airbox cover/windscreen and lower fairing. i just got some stuff back from the powdercoater. thanks though. | ||
| Terribletim |
I'm kind of interested in this myself. I need to paint my plastic parts, whats a good procedure and product? | ||
| Skarecrow |
I am in the same boat guys. I also want to change the color of my plastics. My problem is I change my mind every week. Does anyone know of a good application to preview color changes on an XBS? | ||
| Blackxb9 |
photoshop...the best invention in the world...next to the Buell that is. | ||
| Skarecrow |
I guess I need lessons, everytime I try to photoshop something it looks like crap. | ||
| Terribletim |
I hear ya Skarecrow. I'm much better with Paintshop Pro, but Photoshop has a lot more "features". Of course, I don't know how to work 'em all, but the're there. (Message edited by terribletim on February 09, 2007) | ||
| Stealthxb |
I have had a lot of luck spraying my own parts . I have always used Krylon products with great success. Of course, I have always done flat finishes, which make it a little easier to look good. But hell, if you are already willing to pay someone, give it a shot. (pun intended) If you are not pleased with the results take it to a pro. | ||
| Svo1023 |
check out my pic on my profile... a lot depends on what kind of paint you want..my paint at dealer cost when all was said and done...adhesion promoter....a must for plastic....3 stage paint...clear coat hardener....etc...my cost for materials about 250.00...granted my paint is a bit funky...and pricey but good materials are expensive...mine is all ppg....labor i would figure between 2 and 3 hundred...of course just a simple base coat clear coat would save you some money...just depends on what you want....hope that helps.. mike | ||
| Etennuly |
I own a body shop, so i'll take a guess. If you remove the emblems there will be labor for prep, paint and clear coat, if it were me I'd completely do both sides for uniformity. Lets say 8 hours at $40.00 per hour. That is $320.00. That would be a single color base/clear and I would include a scuff and buff on the clear if needed. Materials include special cleaners for plastics, plastics adhesive coat, filler and primer for any imperfections, basecoat, clearcoat, catylists, flex additive, reducers, sanding and tacking materials. As an individual you'd spend around $600 - 800 buying this stuff and have most of it left over. Shops use it over multiple jobs, spreading the costs. I would put materials cost on this job at $160. Since you are taking it off and shipping both ways there would be no cost there. Looks like $480 plus tax gets you a premium super glossy, smooth, won't peel, won't fade, hard to scratch, gas resistant, bug resistant, single color paint job. You can however make it more expensive if you like by picking over the top colors and brands of paint that will push the materials cost beyond stupid, we can do that too. You can add three stage colors, pearls, ghost stripes/flames/graphics, or what ever. We have a paint mixing system and access to four more so sending a color sample with the parts is a good idea. The paint shop idea is a great one. Some truly beautiful colors can look really bad on some vehicles. Colors can clash with the frame, engine, seat, and wheel colors also. It may come out about the same price as new plastics but opens up more colors than Buell can offer. | ||
| Bads1 |
Adhesion promoter really isn't a must have. The plastics need to be prepped. Scuffed or sanded well,cleaned and then primed. Really thats all. There really isn't a need for a flex agent unless you feel safer with it but its not needed. (Message edited by bads1 on February 09, 2007) | ||
| Skarecrow |
OK, here is what I am thinking this week. I would like the plastics to come out the color of an empty beer bottle in the sun, the brown bottles. Translucent I think would be awesome. Not sure if it would look good with the silver on the CityX though. The Repsol orange or Hugger orange for frame, swing arm, and forks would look good. Now is there a photoshop pro out there that can Dr. a pic of a CityX to preview this? Etennuly, How much extra do you think it would be to add the "euro-fighter" seat unit and tail section, both fiberglass? Mine just arrived. Is it difficult to match powdercoat paint colors to "wet" paint colors? | ||
| Bads1 |
Skarecrow, Powdercoats can be matched. I had the some of the paint in my bike which is candy's matched to the Amber Wheels. As far as your tailsection. It will most likely cost you more. I have the same tail and the fiberglass was not perfect. It needed some massaging to make it right and acceptable for paint. That'll depend on what your chosen painter finds in extra work that may need to be done. (Message edited by bads1 on February 10, 2007) | ||
| Dapope |
I actually dyed the yellow plastics on my XBS black . I did a bunch of test parts in different colors to see what I could get, and took notes of the dye to water ratio. Well when I actually did it I put a little less black dye in than what I tested (As a mistake not on purpose). It looked black except at night when the headlight shined on the front fender the fender looked kind of brown(due to the yellow under). Now over time in the sun it has faded to just a hint of brown and looks pretty nice. Old link. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/201801.html | ||
| Ridrx |
Looks very nice. Wonder how it holds up to scuffs/scratches? Anyone try to dye black plastics another color yet? | ||
| Buellshyter |
I got an estimate for 1-2k using DuPont Hot Hues with some custom graphics work. |
