| Author | Message | ||
     Interex2050 |
Finally replaced pads today...  5000 miles will transform that shiny new pad on the left into something like the one on the right  Here is the big question though... Why would the outer pad suffer so much more?  The outer pad is on the left and the inner pad is on the right.  Is this due to that the outer pad is actuated by the side of the caliper which has the inlet? Also would it be wise, in an effort to counter-act this, to "rotate" pads every 2500 miles or so? | ||
| M1combat |
I wouldn't rotate pads... I'm thinking it probably has to do with the fact that the rotor is pressed towards the right by the mounting hardware. Maybe you have a sticky rotor mount? There are plenty of reasons, but I wouldn't worry about any of them if the brakes feel good. Pads aren't that spendy  . | ||
| New12r |
Dont rotate! The pads "bed" themselves into the rotor if you will and will squeal like mad if you move them! As far as one wearing faster than the other, as long as the pistons move freely and the brakes stop good dont worry. I have been swinging pads on cars for 15 year+ and see alot of uneven pad wear. | ||
| Interex2050 |
thank you for the advice, I guess I just worry too much. The weather is great so I am off for a ride. Happy Holidays | ||
| Swampy |
Your caliper is probably not moving freely. Or your pistons are not retracting easily, caliper bore-piston fouling. Brake fluid needs to be changed out regularly. | ||
| No_rice |
5000 miles? man, that aint much. ive got over 16,000 on my original pads front and back. they look closer to the pad on the left yet. | ||
| Xl1200r |
^^ Kind of what I was thinking... Haven't owned a Buell before, but my pads where only half worn on my Sportster when I traded it in with 14,000 miles on it. My buddies '04 12S has 9,000 or so miles and he hasn't done breaks on it... As for uneven wear, I'm the same as New12r...been doing them on cars for years. Uneven wear isn't a good thing, but what you showed isn't really much to worry about. Check the pistons and slides and make sure all moves free. | ||
| Ftd |
I got 10000 miles out of the pads on my X1 but the front pads on my Uly look to be needing replacement at ~6000 miles. Same riding done on both bikes with the ULY having a higher % of slab miles. Different pad material on the new XB's??? Frank | ||
| Xl1200r |
Might be a different material. A softer pad will make for a better feeling brake, so maybe that's what's happening. Car manufactureres have been doing it forever. BMW rotors are known for being extremely soft, but it makes the pedal feel euphoric. | ||
| Sloppy |
Pad wear like that may indicate you have stuck pistons. Multi-piston calipers are susceptable to this and need to be cleaned frequently. Before you retract the pistons they should be cleaned with brake cleaner and a toothbrush. Once the old pads are removed, slowly push out the pistons and see if they come out evenly. If they do, you're golden. If not, it's time for more cleaning. If you still can't get them out evenly then it's time to disassemble the calipers and pop in new pistons & seals. Another symptom of this problem is a spongy brake lever. | ||
| Interex2050 |
I cleaned the pistons before sliding them back in, but I used that s100 wheel cleaner stuff... I hope that was not a bad idea. Also I did not check if the pistons moved out evenly. Sounds like I am going to have to do some more fiddling. As for the brake fluid that was replaced right after the pad change. The new pads have a different "code" on them so I am not sure what changes have been made, only time will tell. | ||
| 984gasm |
How frequently should we be changing our brake fluid, Front/Rear, and how what's a sign it needs to be changed? | ||
| Interex2050 |
I do this every set of front pads (replace front and rear fluid). Although this depends greatly on how long the pads last I suppose. It would be a good idea to swap out after every winter or rainy season... | ||
| 984gasm |
Interex - Don't mean to jack this thread, but have you purchased a brake bleeding system or bring it to get done? I have around 13k on my bike and have never had that done.. so just want to be on the safe side. thanks | ||
| Interex2050 |
No worries, more discussion is great... Well all the bleeding system really contains is a little bottle with some tubing. So a make-shift one will do just as well. There was a thread that had a great step-by-step procedure, although I cannot seem to find it right now. I will try to find it later or just write up a new one. It is one of those things that is not worth paying someone to do, as it is rather simple. If one takes their time... | ||
| 984gasm |
Sounds good. Would definitely appreciate that. Thanks | ||
| Spatten1 |
I've worn out pads in about 300 miles on the track, so your wear does not sound so premature to me. Dirt buildup or worn detents in the pins can also keep one side from engaging or retracting properly. Check the pins too. | ||
| M1combat |
I only get about 3500-4K miles n the front pads in the summer, and I go through a whole winter on one set or less. I prefer hard pads... | ||
| Thespive |
Ride the Pace! --Sean | ||
| Interex2050 |
hah! I found it... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/205900.html This is the "kit" that I use  Its nice because it has a magnet attached to the bottle. So no worries about spilling, not sure if they still make that one though. I do remember the pin being rather chewed up. Perhaps the next set of pads I will do a complete rebuild of the caliper. (pin, pistons, o-rings, etc...) (Message edited by interex2050 on December 27, 2006) | ||
| 984gasm |
Nice! Thanks Peter. Seems easy enough |
