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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through December 19, 2006 » Tightening Headers « Previous Next »

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984gasm
Posted on Monday, December 11, 2006 - 10:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So, I've felt like something was off in the sound and performance lately, so decided to start with the obvious. Where my front header comes into the engine, the nuts were very loose, but can't seem to get to the rear to check those..

Any pointers on that, and also, is the manual right in the torque spec? I seem to remember someone recently saying they stripped something, and wanted to make sure. Tanks.
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Altima02
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

They can snap easily if over torqued. Follow specs.
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Pwnzor
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 12:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

As far as torque specs go, "sneak up" on it by torquing below spec, then gradually increase in one pound increments until you reach the low end of the spec range.
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Damnut
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

you can get to the two back header nuts. The back nut I got to by removing the fan and tightening that way. The front nut you can get to with an extension and a swivel. I think that you can get to the back one that way too. sorry didn't torque it down.
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Espcustoms
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 01:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Trust me, you don't want one of the studs to break off!
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Firebolteric_ma
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 03:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

rotate the motor and get it that way. It is much easier than taking out the fan and such. I can get the motor rotated and lowered in about 15 minutes flat.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 03:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If you see any evidence that header was bouncing around on that stud (mangled threads or beat up nuts) I would replace those studs with new parts while you are in there. They just thread out after some creative double nutting.

Like Esp said, you really don't want to break one of those studs.
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Sloppy
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 05:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If the nuts are frequently loosening it's a sign that something is wrong! The same symptoms happened to me until finally the stud broke!!! Therein lies a nightmare of a job...

Replace the studs at your earliest convenience. FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER'S SPEC. ON WHAT ORDER TO TIGHTEN THE EXHAUST! In the case of tubers, it's from the bottom up.

Ever since I replaced the studs with new and followed the spec's, I've never had any nuts go loose. Replace those header studs ASAP!
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984gasm
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 05:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I just realized they were kind of loose. I don't think it's a re-occuring thing, I just wanted to get to the rear to see if it was loose as well.

Firebolteric, what do you mean by rotate the motor exactly? Excuse my ignorance..
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Espcustoms
Posted on Tuesday, December 12, 2006 - 06:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

On mine, it turned out that the bolt connecting the front muffler strap to the bottom of the engine had come out putting all the weight of the front of the muffler on the exhaust studs. The nut came off first. When I went to tighten it, it just snapped right off with hardly any torque. If the studs look corroded at all, it's worth it to pull them out and replace.

"Rotating the motor" is a procedure by which you actually remove the front motor mount and swing the front of the engine down and out of the frame. This gives you access to things otherwise impossible to reach. The process looks daunting in the FSM, but it's really not bad at all once you've done it once.
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