| Author |
Message |
    
Samiam
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 09:18 am: | 
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Sik s,
I will look for pictures of my setup, if I can't find any I'll just take more sometime today.
Jack,
I have done both high and low, I am able to use the high beam flasher, however, it is recommended to not use the HID like that since it puts extra strain on the ballasts. There is a bit of lag, but only about half a second. Also at that time the light is quite blue, making it really noticeable. The color mellows out to white after about 15-20 seconds. If I were to flash the high beam repeatedly it looks remarkably like a strobe, due to the quickness of it turning on and off.
I'll try to post videos of the low/high flash on my 'bolt today when I get home from work (8am PST). Hopefully the vids will get the point across.
Oh yeah one more thing I've noticed. The high beam is a noticeably different color than the low beam, most likely due to the cutoff that the low beam has to make it just that, a low beam. If I had to compare, I'd say the high is more blue, where the low is more white. I'll try to capture this effect.
Sam |
Sik_s
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 09:37 am: |
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Sam, thanks again for your kind help. I looked at the Aerostitch HID setup and was not impressed with the look of the ballasts in terms of quality. Ditto on the XenonDepot (XD) motorcycle kit. The only ballasts that look reasonable are the Generation IV that you got for the car kit.
My only concern is that when I emailed XD about using the car kit on a motorcycle they stated that the motorcycle kit is waterproof, while the car setup is only weather protected (well something like that, I would have to try to find the email.) Also they said the wiring is much shorter for the car setup that you purchased as opposed to the motorcycle setup.
Did you find everything that you needed in the XD kit (relays, harness, etc.) or did you have to string more high voltage cable? I feel like the route you went was the higher quality one and the better choice, I'm just looking for a little reassurance.
Thanks again. |
Elff
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 10:22 am: |
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I have to say that a stock firebolt lits up the road waaay better than a stock lightning
The first time I drove my 12R at night I was amazed at how much better it was than my CityX.
Anyone else have a similar experience? |
Samiam
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 10:24 am: |
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Sik S,
I had plenty of wire available for my kit to fit under the fairing of my bike. You might have a harder time on a XBS than my XBR, but you can ask Corporatemonkey on his install on his XBS.
I also believe that under the fairing there is sufficient weather protection. Also, the plugs on the ballasts have gaskets on them to further waterproof the connections. I didn't use the supplied relays, and I clipped the length of the wires down significantly to wire them directly into the stock headlight circuits. There wasn't (and isn't) a problem there as they don't even pull 35W each.
Hope this helps,
Sam |
Brineusaf
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 10:30 am: |
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Interesting... I'm glad to be seeing more interest.
It's been raining here... but the starter died in my car.... 
I like the cost of the Aero Jeremy has... |
Sik_s
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 10:36 am: |
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I hear someone in the back of my head mumbling something about "you get what you pay for". . . . |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 10:41 am: |
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Sik_S,
The ballast in the Aerostitch kit is really good quality as is the rest of the kit. I was impressed with it overall. The connections are solid and gasketed. Aerostitch also does a good job with customer service. If something goes wrong, they do a good job taking care of the customer. I had concerns that the Ricer Light boys wouldn't do the same.
As far as the color difference between high beams and low beams. These capsules do change color as they wear. They will start out very blue and will mellow to a whiter light. If you aren't using the high beams as much, you will notice a difference in color between the two capsules.
The life of the ballast, igniter and capsule will be reduced by "flicking" it on and off. Here's the issue, though. These capsules are rated at 2500 hour life. Your motorcycle will be dead before your bulbs are. At 100 MPH, you would go 250,000 miles. Even at an average speed of 30 MPH (which no one here goes) you would do 75,000 miles. So let's say you decreased the life by half by flicking them on and off, at 50 MPH average speed , you'd still get 62,500 miles out of the system before the capsule failed. I don't know however, what the life rating is of the ballast or the igniter. |
Sik_s
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 11:03 am: |
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FT_bstrd,
While I have only heard good things about the Aerostitch kit, I can't tell what brand the igniters or ballasts are from the picture. They do look like the cheap chinese knockoffs that you can find on ebay though.
I'm trying to build a quality bike and not a thrown together one. I may be wrong, but I believe the reason the Aerostitch kit is so inexpensive compared to other kits is because they used much lower quality components. It makes sense too, if you use lower quality then you can undersell your comptetitors. Who knows maybe I am off base, but until someone posts specific details about the Aerostitch components, I will stay away from that kit.
Also just because it says it is rated for X hours doesn't mean it will survive that long (especially true with cheapo stuff). I would like to save some money like everyone else here I imagine especially since the money tree is not in harvest at this time.
I guess we will see what comes of all of this. |
Samiam
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 11:38 am: |
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Here's the pics and vids:
Videos mostly just show the "flickery-ness"
Video 1
Video 2
Video 3
These vids are a little older, they show the warmup:
Warmup 1
Warmup 2
Warmup 3
Low beam:
Low beam again:
High and Low beam:
And again (over about 20 sec):
Close up to show color difference after warmup:
After warmup again:
That last picture didn't do it justice, the aperture on my camera must've been closed way down.
Hope these help,
Sam |
Fdl3
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 11:48 am: |
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Here is what I have been trying to find out with regard to an HID kit installed on the low beam for a Firebolt: does a deteriorated coating on the headlight reflector adversely affect the light output and/or the light pattern of an HID bulb?
It seems that a good bit of light problems (at least with the projector H3 units used on the Firebolt) are related to the deterioration of the reflective backing of the projector headlight unit. Light output is probably not affected as much as the light pattern.
So, would it do me any good to install an H3 HID kit if a deteriorated reflective coating hampers the light pattern to the point of nullifying the brightness of an HID bulb?  |
Samiam
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 11:49 am: |
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... and on that note, I'm off to bed. I've been up since 2pm yesterday and I deserve a little sleep after a long night's work. If anyone has further questions for me, either PM me, email me at majorpita@majorpita.com, or if it's urgent, call me at 801-231-9116.
Good night all,
Sam |
Rhinowerx
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 11:49 am: |
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OMG - I think I've gone blind! 
Great job Samiam - thanks for taking the time to put up the vid clips - really helps
Cheers
-Jack |
Samiam
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 11:52 am: |
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Fdl3,
I believe that deteriorated coating was being caused by long term use of stock or higher wattage bulbs, literally melting the reflector. I installed my HID kit with less than 50 miles on my bike so I don't know too much more. I also do not believe the HID kit will create NEAR enough heat to melt the coating.
YRMV,
Sam |
Fdl3
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 12:21 pm: |
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Nope, it doesn't "melt" the reflector - the reflector is not deformed in regards to shape. Instead, the reflector maintains its exact shape but gets "oxidized", or "dirty". It looks like it needs cleaning, but as soon as you try, the reflective coating wipes off!
If the heat from a stock unit causes this deterioration, then I can see where an HID unit might slow down the deterioration. I doubt it would completely stop it, though.
I would just hate to plunk down cash for an HID kit only to have my expectations dampened because of cheap reflectors. |
Corporatemonkey
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 05:54 pm: |
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For those that are worried about flashing the high beams, I would not be too concerned about the the arc light bulb, but with the wear and tear on the ballasts.
Most of the failures I have seen have all been traced back to the ballast. That is part of the reason I didn't upgrade my high beam.
In fact I have a little starting procedure that lessens the load on my light. When starting the bike I have only the halogen high beam on. After the bike is fully idling then I turn on the HID. I do the reverse before I shut down the bike.
This helps eliminate voltage spikes on the system. |
Bumblebee
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 06:16 pm: |
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 Oh MY GOD! Something evil this way comes! |
Starter
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 03, 2006 - 11:43 pm: |
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Off topic but hey..........Anyone got anymore suggestions on the coating of the reflectors? I have inivestigated befor eand was told it was more than likely an issue with the plastic rather than the coating. HIDs look good though, but I'm out in the dark literally with reflector quality at the moment. |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 12:26 am: |
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Heat is going to be the biggest enemy of the reflectors. The HIDs don't seam to generate any more head than the stock bulbs. Running high wattage bulbs will.
Once the reflectors have gone, it's time to replace them. |
Brineusaf
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 07:38 am: |
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Jeremy - how long did it take you to install the HID Low Beam setup. |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 09:17 am: |
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I took my time and enjoyed the install, so it took longer than it needed to. I did it in about 2 hours.
You basically have two connections to make. I clipped off the stock bulb socket and sealed the old connection. I made a connection with the power socket to run to the relay. Second connection is a direct connection to the battery.
Everything else is plug and play.
I did go ahead and alter the dust cup on the back of the light so that the included rubber plug would fit into it. I have a write up and will try to find it. |
Sik_s
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 10:10 am: |
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{Samiam "I didn't use the supplied relays, and I clipped the length of the wires down significantly to wire them directly into the stock headlight circuits. There wasn't (and isn't) a problem there as they don't even pull 35W each."}
Sam, did you use relays at all? When you clipped the wires down, how did you reconnect the ends or did you do something else. I just ordered the same kit as you did from XD, so any pictures and any further descriptions you can provide will be most helpful. Thanks.
-Dan |
Samiam
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 11:50 am: |
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Basically what I did is use Scotch Loks to tap the wires that came in the kit (the ones that go directly to the ballasts) to the plugs for each of the H3 bulbs. I put electrical tape around the ground plug, not that it was necessary.
Here are a few pictures I just put together, forgive the mess of wires, it's not usually that way (not too bad anyway). When the fairing's on, it fits together quite nicely.
As you can see I didn't use any relays, since the power pull is not too much for the stock headlight relay. I would have liked to post pictures of my ballasts, but they are behind the headlights and I don't like pulling the headlights down since it was quite a snug fit. I put them in there almost exactly the same way as the person on the IFM racing forum, except I had to trim the plastic down a little more due to the size of these ballasts.
Pay no attention to the rocks in the pictures, they are there from when I wrecked recently. Didn't even notice them there, good thing you convinced me to pull off the fairing since there was about a dozen in there. Dang gravel shoulder.
Anyway, if anyone has any questions, same as my last picture post, I'm off to bed now, been up all night.
Sam |
99buellx1
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 01:28 pm: |
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Eeek, scotch locks! |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 03:06 pm: |
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Yeah, I hate those friggin vampire clamps. I use these:
 |
Fullpower
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 05:31 pm: |
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I soldered all my connections, and heat shrunk them too. I work pretty slow on my own equipment. |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 06:34 pm: |
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I would have soldered my connections, but you never know when you need to quickly return your stuff to stock. I have found that if you are trying to chase down an electrical gremlin, whatever aftermarket modification you have made will ALWAYS be blamed. If I take my stuff off, and it is still doing it, it ain't my stuff doing it.
I had a VW once. I changed out the interior light with a later model that had LEDs for interior illumination. Mind you, the replacement part was VW OEM just not my model year. My electric seat stopped working. The interior light was blamed. My dash lights stopped working. The interior light was blamed.
It turned out that I had a defective seat rail and the connection for the dash lights ran right under the center console. The connection was not complete snapped together. When I leaned on the console, the dash lights went out.
Classic tech trouble shooting. "I don't understand what is happening, so if you have done anything to the wiring, that must be the cause." |
Samiam
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 07:12 pm: |
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Ft bstrd,
I agree with you, you really never know when you need to quickly return to stock. That is why I used the Scotch Loks. Not to mention I haven't had a bad experience with them (yet).
(Knock on wood)
Sam
(Message edited by samiam on October 04, 2006) |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 04, 2006 - 07:21 pm: |
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I have started using these:
I think they give a much more positive connection and are as easy to remove. |
2k4xb12
| | Posted on Thursday, October 05, 2006 - 08:04 am: |
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FWIW, Scotchlok, or ANY for of wire nuts should NEVER be used on anything automotive due to their propensity to remove themselves when exposed to vibration. Always solder and heat shrink your connections using "Western Union" splices.
Just my .02
Steve. |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Saturday, October 07, 2006 - 12:33 pm: |
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. |
Thespive
| | Posted on Saturday, October 07, 2006 - 02:24 pm: |
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Also, beware that HIDs do not have as much draw as stock when stablilized and on, but the intial draw from when the the lights are first turned on is way more than the stock system was designed to take. At least this was my experience when putting HIDs on my truck, I went with a relay.
--Sean |
Samiam
| | Posted on Saturday, October 07, 2006 - 04:51 pm: |
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I have heard otherwise, Thespive. It is correct that the initial draw of current for the HIDs is higher than the stock bulbs, but it is not more than can be handled by the stock wiring, and fuse. See this excerpt from the IFM Racing HID install post:
quote:The factory halogen bulbs are rated at 55 Watts each, whichs draws about 4.6 Amps each. The new HID bulbs are rated at 35 Watts and by calculations should draw only 2.92 Amps each. But adding in the thermal loss of the ballast, I measured with my meter that it actually draws about 3.5 Amps each with an inrush current of about 6 amps for less than a second when the bulb is started cold. I cold started both the high and low-beams at the same time and found only a surge of 12.2 Amps, and running current at 7.1 Amps total. Considering that the stock halogen bulbs would draw 9.2 Amps total, and the factory headlight circuit fuse is rated at 15 Amps, things should be ok.
Full text of above post can be found here
Sam |
Ft_bstrd
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 10, 2006 - 12:40 am: |
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Finally got my write up pulled together:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/233088.html?1160460263
(Message edited by ft_bstrd on October 10, 2006) |
Hogs
| | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 10:43 am: |
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Will this type work as well?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=25003679832 5&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
or these whats the difference besides the Price?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=250037264225&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
(Message edited by Hogs on October 13, 2006) |
Tq_freak
| | Posted on Friday, October 13, 2006 - 06:21 pm: |
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I soldered all my connections, and heat shrunk them too. I work pretty slow on my own equipment.
Fullpower you are a man after my own heart, I am anal when it comes to electrical stuff. I want my connections to be better then a factory one. |
Hogs
| | Posted on Saturday, October 14, 2006 - 11:40 am: |
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PILOT-H3-4300K-XENON-HID-CONVERSION-KIT-HELLA-JDM _W0QQitemZ250036463970QQihZ015QQcategoryZ36476QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
heres another link will any of these three kits work? |
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