| Author | Message | ||
     984gasm |
Ok, so a few days ago I went to start my bike and the rpm's shot to redline and then went back down.. thought someone was maybe messing with it while parked, then tonight went to start and happened again then bike turned right off and the tac was stuck at 3500rpm's. Won't start, dash is frozen at those rpm's and nothing will work. Funny thing is I was supposed to ride it to Liberty harley for the 10k service tomorrow.. | ||
| Tailspining |
Check your ground wires, make sure they're tight. Don't forget the battery terminals. | ||
| 984gasm |
tried the battery terminals. | ||
| Davo |
Check the throttle cable and make sure it is free. The throttle plate has got to be open past the idle setting for the rpm to go that high. Maybe someone turned up the idle screw on the front left side of the engine. (near the # 1 spark plug). Do you get any dash lights at all? | ||
| 984gasm |
No dash lights, I rode it to a friends, parked on the street, went to start and that happened. No clue what could make the rpm's shoot up like that. | ||
| Davo |
Check all your fuses and the relays!!!!! | ||
| Davo |
FYI It is my opinion that even if the ECM is fried you need air to go to red line and that requires the throttle cable to be pulled. | ||
| 984gasm |
Yeah, that was the next step, It was kind of dark and couldn't really tell, so I'm going to go up there in the morning with a truck and check it, then load it.. | ||
| Jkhawaii |
as Davo said, to shoot up to redline the throttle needs to be stuck open. no amount of electrical isues would let the engine rev to redline w/o air and fuel | ||
| 984gasm |
How would the throttle get stuck open? And would the bike redlining like that fry the ECM? I hope not, a nail in my brand new tire last week, $400 for the 10k service, and if something like that happened, it would really put me under | ||
| Davo |
I predict the cable is hung up some how. If you get in a bind let us know and we will walk you through a fix. | ||
| Davo |
Also, is there someone near by with a VDSTS? It has a Tach test feature! I am in southside Virginia but I am sure there is a BadWeber near by that has one! Maybe someone will chime in. | ||
| 984gasm |
so when it redlined, it possibly blew a fuse or relay, so check the fuses and also make sure the cable isn't catching anywhere? When it comes to this kind of tech stuff, I'm not that great. I figure if I can find out the prob before I drop it off for the service that would be better so I'm not paying more than I have to | ||
| Davo |
Red lining should not blow a fuse but no dash lights could indicate a blown fuse or a fried relay. I would check the fuses and hopefully there is a blown fuse so that you can replace it and we can tell you how to pull a trouble code from the ECM. If there is a sensor problem there should be a trouble code. The ECM has four trouble codes. I will post the procedure so you can print it off and bring it with you. In order to retrieve trouble codes w/o software: Get a short piece of 18 ga. wire about 12” long with two small insulated alligator clips. The manual uses part number 72191-94 (two of them) as end connectors instead of the alligator clips. Go to the data link connector that is located on the left side just under the edge of the seat. Remove the rubber insert. There are four pins inside. Looking at the connector with the locking hasp pointed down. The pin orientation is such that pin # 1 and pin #2 are both on your left. See below: #2 #3 #1 #4 lock With the key and ignition off, connect pin #1 and pin #2 with the home made jumper. Make sure you do not touch the other pins! Then turn the key and the ignition on. Do not start the bike. The engine light should start to flash: If it flashes many times (about 10 or 11, to fast to count for me) very fast, then there are NO trouble codes. Otherwise there will be 6 quick flashes at 3 per second and this is an intermission. Then there will be a 2 second pause Then count the number of one second flashes separated by 1 second pauses and this will be your first digit. Then there will be a 2 second pause Then count the number of one second flashes separated by 1 second pauses and this will be your second digit. Then there will be a 2 second pause Start back at intermission of 6 flashes…………..and so on…….. This will continue until you turn off the ignition and the key and remove the jumper. If you remove the jumper without turning off the ignition the engine light will continue to cycle trouble codes. If you have a trouble code and then you correct the problem that created the code. The bike will automatically clear the codes after 50 start and run sessions of at least 30 seconds or more. Until then the code will remain even if the problem is fixed. Trouble code list: 11-TPS 13- O2 sensor 14-ET (engine temp) 15-air intake temp 16-battery voltage 21-exhaust actuator 23-front injector 24-front coil 25-rear coil 32-rear injector 33-fuel pump 35-tach 36-fan 44-bank angle sensor 52, 53, 54, 55- ECM failure 56-cam sync. Failure Good luck. There is a more detailed account of this procedure in the shop manual. There is also flow charts to correct all of the fault conditions. This procedure has pulled codes that my VDSTS Pro USA did not pull. The VDSTS could clear them but it could not recognize all of them. I never leave home without my jumper wire, list of the codes, small box of fuses, electrical tape, and an extra relay. I hope this helps.! These are my words so it would be good for someone to review my procedure for accuracy. Thanks!! | ||
| 984gasm |
Thank you very much. |
