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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through July 30, 2006 » Charging system diagnosis...WRONG! « Previous Next »

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Kowpow225
Posted on Sunday, July 30, 2006 - 04:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

First let me say that this isn't intended to be a bashing thread nor a griping one. I'm just looking for some answers.

My 03 XB9 has around 7500 miles on it and has developed a charging system problem. The battery is showing 12.03-12.70 volts at the terminals even shortly after a ride or sitting overnight. I've taken it to my dealership since it's still under warranty to work on it. The problem is they can't find anything wrong with it. They say the stator battery and regulator all are within specs and actually released the bike back to me with the problem still there. (I checked voltage when I left the dealership @12.8 and at home @12.03.) Also, when I charge the battery back up overnight and reinstall it, the bike has noticably better starting, acceleration and idling. So here's where I'm at. Could be one or all of the following.
1. There is a bleed on the system that's draining the battery as it sits.
2. There is a loose connection that is not being found or maybe a chaffed wire.
3. The component is checking ok but in reality has a problem either mileage/temperature/usage related.

Is there anything else you might know of to add to this list?

The dealership insists there is no problem with the bike and offer it back to me. Once I have taken it, this time I simply refuse.
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Glitch
Posted on Sunday, July 30, 2006 - 05:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

2. There is a loose connection that is not being found or maybe a chaffed wire.
This is what I would look for right after I checked all the connections leading to the battery, regulator, and stator.
Is that your original battery?
The original batterys, IMHO are on the same level as the stock Dunlops.
Good luck!
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Jkhawaii
Posted on Sunday, July 30, 2006 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

with the battery disconnected and a test light in series
the test lamp should not light. (with the key and fan off also)
if you have a draw sitting a few days the battery will likly be dead.
whats the charging volts with the engine running?
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Kowpow225
Posted on Sunday, July 30, 2006 - 05:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Glitch,
The battery was replaced 2 months ago when it showed what I thought were signs of dying. (hard starting, strange idling)

Jkhawaii,
I did several basic tests with my multimeter as per the service manual and was getting around 13.5 (I think) volts with it idling.
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Odinbueller
Posted on Sunday, July 30, 2006 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Did you check your AC output at the stator at 1000 RPM intervals? I don't have the spec in front of me, but I think it's 18 - 22 volts AC per 1000 RPM across each stator connector. There's a current draw test that requires a Christie or Ferret load tester, resistance tests, ground tests for stator & regulator, and DC volts output from the regulator. Without the load tester, some of the tests are not possible, however.

Hope you find the problem. Also be sure to check all electrical connectors & grounds to be sure they're all tight. Make sure all of your chassis grounds are sound (and do not have Loctite or sealant). I know electrical gremlins can drive you crazy, but if you follow a systematic approach to the problem, you're sure to find it.

Chris
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Diablobrian
Posted on Sunday, July 30, 2006 - 06:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If it drains overnight you have either a bad battery, you can get bad new parts, or a ground, or just a circuit that's still on with the ignition off.

An easy way to hunt it is to put a light in between the positive pole and the wires. With the ignition off it should not be lit.
If it is lit you then pull fuses until you find the one(s) that puts the light out. that's the circuit (or circuits) that you need to
check. Common sense and the wiring schematic in the manual will lead you from there.
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Kowpow225
Posted on Monday, July 31, 2006 - 09:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Odin,
Obviously some of the tests which require an 'amp probe' I was unable to do at home. Probably a good time to invest in one of those devices.: )

Brian,
I'd love to have the bike in my possession long enough to do those tests....the dealer's still fumbling around with it and will more than likely tell me again that nothing is wrong.

I'm running out of options here. Would I be in a better situation pulling the bike from this service department and taking it to another?
Should I NARC on them to Buell and maybe burn a few bridges with the dealership? <------ This might be more fun than I thought.
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Diablobrian
Posted on Tuesday, August 01, 2006 - 12:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How far away is another Buell dealership?

Consider carefully before burning bridges. A calm, reasonable approach is usually more productive than emotional confrontation.

If you have an electrically savvy friend to help, and the dealership finds nothing again, I'd try doing the checks yourself.
2 heads are (almost) always better than one.

If that again turns up nothing I'd then call Buell customer service, and fill them in on the problem, and what's been done so
far. You can express (in a calm way) your dis-satisfaction with the service received.

Hopefully though they'll find the problem, or you will, and you'll be back happily riding before it comes to that!
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