| Author | Message | |||
     Vaneo1 |
I want to do something to my air box cover thats creative. something involving some holes for increased airflow. I have seen some of the cool/ creative things some of you have down to your airbox covers involving a few holes, and chicken wire. I have an 06 model and have noticed that there are some slits on the right side of the air filter cover, and that there is the small cut away near the gas cap for airflow. someone told me its best to leave it as-is because it uses a venturi effect since the small cutaway "sucks" air in and compreses it thus making it run around the air filter cover and into the slots on the right side faster and by modifiying the cover with some type of holes I will only REDUCE the airflow comming into the filter. I know American Sportbike has that carbon fiber cover with the big nostrils, but its kinda pricey so I wanted to make my own creation. Can anyone offer any guidance on what kind of performance consequnces modifying the airbox cover will have? ADAM PS. Actually I also noticed that many people have requested a whole carbon fiber air box cover from Al over the one with the two nostrils is there a reason why? | |||
| Brineusaf |
i don't think it compressed the air (i have an 06) since the airbox isn't sealed. I think the people who want the one without the vents might be the ones who's left side "air scoop" actually routes through the frame, unlike ours. I'm thinking of either ordering Al's carbon fiber vented cover, or possibly customizing my own. | |||
| Vonsliek |
the racebikes i saw had NO airbox or funnel cover .. no base to airbox cover either .. just the colored part w/ the buell logos on it & a BIG hole all around for LOADS of air ... i'm gonna do it that way tomorrow & put some flyscreen over funnel so the crap off the road doesnt kill it! | |||
| Diablobrian |
Remember that those race bikes only see at the most 200 miles a year. During that time many will have the top end "freshened up". What works at the track is not always what's best for the street. Losing the air filter is not a good idea for a street bike. | |||
| Chuckc |
All you have to do is with a dremel tool cut the part of your airbox that fits down inside your air filter then take two small bungie straps and make them "X" over the cut lid holding it and the air filter in place. Hook the straps on the airbox base. I did this, it is both easy and free and takes about 10 min. to do. What you are left with is a open airbox instead of paying for aftermarket kits to do this. I also removed the snorkel adding extra air flow. | |||
| Tbowdre |
wish i could see some pics of air box cover mods | |||
| Vaneo1 |
CHUCK do you have any pics? ADAM | |||
| Sakuc |
Twin-air makes airbox-mesh kit, no more playing around with chicken wire-mesh. http://www.twinair.com/2004/news/2006_04_03_airboxvents.pdf | |||
| Trojan |
someone told me its best to leave it as-is because it uses a venturi effect since the small cutaway "sucks" air in and compreses it thus making it run around the air filter cover and into the slots on the right side faster and by modifiying the cover with some type of holes I will only REDUCE the airflow comming into the filter. Someone was lying  The slots in the new airboxes appear to be the factory answer to what owners and the aftermarket have been doing to the XB since it came out, and that is to get more air into what is quite a restrictive inner airbox. The smaller opening at the front of the airbox will not produce a venturi effect as there is simply no venturi present and not enough air speed to create one even if the construction was right for one. Part of the job of the original airbox is to reduce noise as well as feed air to the engine. This will always be a huge compromise on street bikes, and particularly air cooled bikes that have more mechanical noise issues anyway. By making holes in your airbox you will increase airflow and noise. | |||
| Chuckc |
Yes, I will take a picture and post. You all will see how easy it is and wonder why you had not thought of it earlier. Free and easy. Worst case you buy a spare stock airbox cover for around $35. You will notice a nice improvement with the trade off of increased engine noise. But the performance improvement is worth the little extra noise. | |||
| Gentleman_jon |
Not sure if I remember this properly, but I do believe that Kevin Drum, of Drummer Muffler fame has stated that on a Drummer equipped Twelve with a race ECM, drilling the airbox produces less torque at the bottom of the rev range, perhaps because of the resonance tuned effect of the airbox. Anybody? Mine is undrilled for the moment, (unlike my on my Nine), and I do sort of like having a bit less noise. I could swear that drilling out the box did help the Nine though. | |||
| Pwnzor |
Here is my experience on this subject. I have the factory race kit. I drilled my airbox up like swiss cheese with a 1.25 in. hole saw. At first I didn't notice the power loss in the low end because I was too busy enjoying the bombardment of new sounds. But after a week or so, I began to notice the following effects: I had to adjust my idle a lot, and the bike seemed to bog down just a bit off the line. AND, the bike was running considerably hotter. So I went back to a stock airbox, and I'm much happier where I was. The grass is not always greener on the other side. | |||
| Kowpow225 |
I should have taken some pictures of my open airbox mod...but anyways I have nothing but good to say about this modification...although pwnzor's comment about the idle isn't too far off in my case either. I bought stainless bolts with wing nuts to fasten the 12 'lid' down to the filter and then drilled 2 holes in the bottom plate of the airbox and 2 in the lid. I also used 2 rubber grommets in the base to aid in sealing. Nice intake growl at higher throttle openings but reminds me of a helicopter sound at or around idle. | |||
| Chuckc |
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| Teddagreek |
Pic Doesn't work | |||
| Trojan |
When you open up the airbox you really need to be able to add more fuel as well. This is particularly true at the top end of the rev range but also at the bottom to compensate for the increased airflow. Playing around with Direct Link, Rapidbike or even TFi will restore the correct air/fuel ratio. We had to add nearly 15% of fuel at 2500rpm when we first fitted an open airbox with race exhaust etc to our bike. | |||
| Vaneo1 |
so your saying that having the race kit wont be enough for modifying the airbox? how am I supposed to modify the fuel flow? IMO the fuel pump is pretty weak to begin with hence pinging if I just open the throttle wide off the line. | |||
| 147db |
My airbox cover mods:  More infos in my web pages...  | |||
| Vaneo1 |
cool, 147 did you also cut the inner -airbox as well? | |||
| 147db |
Yes, of course...! But now I use this setup with the stock air filter (and snorkel in place) rather than with the K&N... the bike was too lean.  | |||
| Xring |
I don't like intake noise. I experimented a little and went back to stock with a 12 airbox top and K&N. Also put snorkel back in. Whatever small gain in HP I might get just isn't worth it in my case. Good luck, Bill | |||
| Vonsliek |
so, worse case scenario .. is? no airbox & totally open front (removing black surround for gas neck & base of front of airbox cover .. i have noticed very obvious heat increase .. WAY more backfiring on cool air &/or off throttle. WAY more top end rush & faster feeling revs .. powerband?! will excess heat kill motor? i removed the shround on right side that seems to block air from entering toward rear cylinder & i am going to dremel larger openings to tail unit to let airflow free-er from front to rear cylinder on both sides. paul. | |||
| Metalstorm |
It's time to stick my neck out & show how much I don't know about this subject. A thought popped in my head & left a question. The question is; Wouldn't a swiss cheesed or open airbox be better for running at higher altitudes where the air is thinner? It seems most of the folks at or near sea level are liking the stock airbox better.  Edit: This is in regard to the pre-06 models with the air through the frame setup. (Message edited by metalstorm on July 07, 2006) | |||
| Diablobrian |
Vaneo1, the stock XB fuel pump will flow enough volume to supply a 125hp motor easily. It is the map in your ECM causing the lean popping. The pinging at WOT may be because of improper static timing. | |||
| Kevinfromwebb |
Question: I've been running the tfi on my 12r with the stock settings (3,7,5,7) (3rd pot turned up a number to help keep from surging)...I've been running an odies pipe and k&n... I just recently swisscheesed my airbox. It still runs fine and haven't noticed any heat related or running issues. Would you adjust any of the pots further up or leave them be??? I'm about 600ft elevation if that makes any difference... Any opinions??? Kevin | |||
| Blake |
Put it on a dyno with an A/F (O2) sensor. That's the only way you'll ever really know how the mixture is performing. Bottom line though is that if it isn't fouling plugs or detonating (excessive pinging), and the fuel mileage is okay and it is running well, you are good to go as is. | |||
| Chuckc |
 here is a picture of my airbox mods that I did with a dremel that some of you wanted to see. | |||
| U4euh |
I had the 9 air box cut out to the same effect as what Chucks's looks like above. With my modified outer air lid ventholes, the noise was getting K-raze-eee! So I ordered the stock 12 airbox and put it on. The decrease in noise was outstanding. Now to the performance. Use to be I could get on it and have to watch the front end in 1st, 2nd, and get a little bump going to 3rd. Now, I really have to try to get it up in 2nd, read- it has to be done on purpose. Does it make a difference, I believe so. Granted this is running with the stock air filter in place on both versions. | |||
| Buell920 |
Helmholz Volume Power System (HVPS) Helmholz was a scientist who developed theories on air and sound motions. The Buell air box uses Helmholz principles combining his theories with the tuning of the intake duct and also effectively controlling the acoustics inside the air box. The Helmholz Volume Power System allows a small chamber volume to simulate a large area in terms of air movement, enhancing the engine performance, while reducing unwanted frequencies. | |||
| Kevinfromwebb |
Thanks Blake. I was just wanting a second opinion, I think I'll leave it alone unless I start having any problems... Kevin | |||
| Jaimec |
Something I've learned from YEARS in software development: "If it works, don't fix it."  | |||
| Vaneo1 |
Good info Buell920, I like it, I like it a lot! I just want that roaring air sucking sound that some people have been describing due to larger air-intakes | |||
| Tunes |
When I installed the race kit on my '04 12s, I remember it instructing me to remove the snorkel, right? I followed the instructions to the letter and installed the supplied parts. I keep the engine tuned and check the tps on a regular basis. Bike runs great. Remember, engines are basically air pumps. Air in, ad gas, ignite, expel air. More air in means more gas, which means hotter spark, which means better exhaust flow out. It's a vicious circle. | |||
| Vaneo1 |
yes! the basic engine concept, "suck, squeeze, bang, blow" | |||
| Vonsliek |
U4euh .. so .. does bike feel slower or weaker w/ airbox back on, or is it essentially same but less reaching for the sky?? interested to know, paul. |
