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Ferrolano
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 09:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've just clocked 750 mi on my 2006 XB12Scg and like it so much that I want to keep it running right and improve it where either the EPA or the manufacturer has stepped in to make it more "greeen"--to its detriment, longevity, reliability or performance, within reason. So I keep reading here on this site and elsewhere, how much "water and goo" the engine ingests with every tankful of gas. The solution--it's suggested--is to install a $160 catch can (manufactured by Drummer Racing Products, I believe) to reroute the harmful gunk and keep it away from going through the engine. Some have even claimed that this addition amounts to an extra 2 h.p. My question is, where's the goo coming from? And, is this $160 solution the only answer to the "problem"?
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Bubabuell
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 09:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

No. It's not really necessary for a stock motor. The gunk you're talking about is residue from the combustion process (blow by) and not directly related to the fuel per se. IMO I'd rather plumb it elsewhere than have it go through the engine. And there are other home grown methods that are less expensive than the $160 one you're talking about.
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Beachbuell
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The "goo" as you call it is oil, it is the nature of the beast to breath excess oil. All Harley Davidson motors do it. The oil in your airbox will not hurt anything. As far as catch can goes, its a choice, but not necessary in my opinion.
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Diablobrian
Posted on Sunday, June 25, 2006 - 10:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

the goo is emulsified oil. Condensation gets mixed into the oil vapor.
It is a choice, like any modification. There have been some less
expensive catch can type arrangements made of clear tubing detailed
on badweb if the cost is the deciding factor.
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Jerseyguy
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

We at Drummer Racing Products sell 'em and I can tell you it's a choice. They do work though.

While installing the Buell pro plugs in my bike this weekend, I noticed how clean it was inside my air filter after 1000+ miles of having the catch can installed. In the winter months, a large quantity of clear water would drain from the can after a ride. I've noticed in the summer it's mostly a yellowish oily sludge that drains and the volume is less.
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Pwnzor
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 11:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I re-routed my breathers after Mcgiver showed me what was up.

I made my own system for about $20. It was only that much because I got a "fancy" air filter for it.

3 rubber plugs
6' of rubber hose ( I had about 2' left over)
1 breather filter
1 plastic barbed "T"

Rubber plugs and barbed T from Ace Hardware.
Hose and breather from Kragen Auto.

Took me 30 minutes to install.

After seeing what was being re-routed back into my engine I wouldn't refer to this mod as a choice at all. I drain it after every ride and I get what I consider to be a significant amount of sludge and moisture which I closely examine in a clear plastic tub.

Just my $0.02. Ounce of prevention and all that.
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Stealthxb
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 12:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The Open Airbox Conversion Kit from American Sportbike and the K&N Breather Filter is another option.



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Bubabuell
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 12:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

$160 for a catch can = style over substance, IMHO.
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Sgthigg
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 04:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

A choice. Its a good choice in my opinion. However there are cheaper models out there than listed above..One thing good luck mounting them though. The drummer placement is by far the best in my opinion.
Bolts right up no problems at all.

After putting mine on I got a crap ton of schtuff out of it. Made me a beleiver.
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Wazza
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 09:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I am going to order the open air box kit from American Sportsbike very soon and was undecided on what to use for a catch can. If I went with just the K+N filter shown above how well might this work out, ie, how many miles could I go before I need to pull it off and clean it out or will it still leak fluid by the end of a long days riding so better to get something that won't - namely a can?
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Diablobrian
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 09:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

without a catch basin of some sort you will have liquid coming out of the filter.
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Bigbuell
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I bought mine from kfab (Drummer Man). I like it, it keeps the oil out of my air box and keeps my intake clean. Its a little pricey but well worth it. But this is just my opinion.
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Bubabuell
Posted on Monday, June 26, 2006 - 10:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

without a catch basin of some sort you will have liquid coming out of the filter.

Not really true depending on how it's positioned. Mine doesn't leak. There is a slight amount of residue present in the surrounding area at times, but it doesn't leak splew.
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Snakedriver
Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 02:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Just to do something different you might want to take a look at Summit Racing or Jegs catalogs. They have some pretty neat catch cans.
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Pwnzor
Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 02:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The parts list I gave was innacurate. Two barbed T's are required as well as one double ended barbed connector. Following is a complete parts list with illustrations attached.

(6') 3/8" SAE 30R7 fuel/emissions hose
(3) 3/8"-1/2" rubber plugs
(2) 3/8" barbed T connectors
(1) 3/8" double end barbed connector
(1) 3/8" generic breather filter

Here you can see the overall routing of the new breather hose.


Here we see that one of the existing hoses has been trimmed a bit and one of the barbed T's is employed.


Moving down the line we see the routing, over the frame then under the subframe. Here the second T is put to use.


Viewed from the other side, we see the tube which will carry lighter gases and vapor away from the junction at the second T. A hole has been drilled in the plastic wall the exact size of the tube for a tight fit.


Returning to our original perspective we see the vapor tube and can see the filter where the emissions can has long since been removed on this California model.


Here's where you end up when you make a right turn back at the second T. The liquid drain tube. All that nasty garbage in the clear bin came from the tube. Except for the june bugs, they flew in there on their own.


Take one of the 3 plugs and twist it into the end of the drain tube until snug. No need to force it, it's not going anywhere.


Here's where the other 2 plugs go, in the base of the airbox where you unhooked the breather tubes. I put them in from the bottom and used small cable ties to secure them from the inside so they can't be backed out. Probably overkill.


Heres a closer look at one of the plugs.


Heres a closer look at the filter. The double-ended connector goes into the filter and into the end of the hose here.


I've got about 3,000 miles on this setup now, and I am always amazed how much stuff comes out each day when I drain it. Also note, the lack of any oily residue near the filter. All this was less than $20 and I had some extra tubing left over.

(Message edited by pwnzor on June 27, 2006)
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Kdan
Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 03:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have the setup from American Sport Bike as StealthXB has illustrated above. There is some splooj that comes out of the filter and gets on the bike slightly, but then, that's why I wash it once a month or so. I may engineer a "catch can" or not, it's not enough splooj to worry about really.
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Ferrolano
Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 08:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Matt,
Thank you very much for sharing with the rest of us the benefit of your skills and the patience for photodocumenting it so clearly. There's a lot of talent and time evident in your post.
One more question--I gather that you are using the plugged drain hose (located by the exhaust tube/left footpeg) as your temporary catch-can since I don't see one in your set up? Am I right? You just pull the plug and drain it every few tankfulls?
Again, many many thanks.
Ric
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Ftd
Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 09:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I had a Drummer catch can installed on my ULY before I picked it up. Riding it back to FL from WI I emptied it every 3rd fill up. See photo. It seems to be producing less "stuff" now in FL and summer time (plus engine is fully broken in). I am glad that I am not recycling that water/oil mix. back into my engine.

Frank

can
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Pwnzor
Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 12:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Indeed the drain tube doubles as the reservoir. I drain it every time I pull into my garage or once per day if I'm not home. It can hold quite a bit, there is approximately 13" of tube from the T to the plug. You could easily go a week or two between draining it. I do it daily for curiosity's sake. I figure if something drastic is happening in my engine, there may be some indication in the fluid's color or texture.

Catch cans are nice but this unit gets the job done quite nicely.

BTW, thanks to fellow BadWeb member Mcgiver for showing me this mod. He uses clear tubing for his drain tube so he can see when it needs to be emptied. The store was out of clear when I got mine.
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Blasterd
Posted on Tuesday, June 27, 2006 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)



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Firefightergarcia
Posted on Wednesday, July 26, 2006 - 01:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Nice setup Blasterd. Where did you get it and how much was it?
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