| Author | Message | ||
     Robino |
so where does one get the gold lyndalls for the xb buell? | ||
| Diablobrian |
American Sport Bike for one | ||
| M1combat |
Just for the record I don't like the Lyndalls much. Not as much initial bite or overall power compared to the stock pads or the EBC HH's. They aren't any easier to modulate IMO and they require a good deal more effort at the lever. They do have a cool carbon smell though.... They also seem to be a lot dirtier. I hear they're easier on the rotor. | ||
| Robino |
hmm, i've been reading just the opposite i've read the gold lyndells don't dirty up so much, they stop much better and they require very little effort at the lever. (Message edited by robino on June 22, 2006) | ||
| Spatten1 |
I got mine from Al at American Sport Bike. They do have less bite and take more effort, but I think they are progressive, have good "feel" and will get them again. I personally think the XB chassis is very twitchy and easy to upset with inputs. The lack of initial bite and progressive feel work well for me when really cranked over at the track. It is worth the extra effort at the lever to me. | ||
| Robino |
you have a point. my stock brakes were reealy touchy. | ||
| M1combat |
You have a point with having less bite for mid-turn braking, but why not use the rear? It'll upset the chassis less anyway. WRT "feel" I think they're very vague. With the EBC's it felt like I had a hold of the rotor... A very connected/metal feeling, where the lyndalls feel somewhat "spongy" to me... | ||
| Spatten1 |
I thought the EBCs really grab the rotor hard too. Part of my focus is getting off the front brake smoothly in the corner, and I think that I can do better with the Lyndalls. I should go back to the EBCs next for comparrison, as it is hard to remember the detials. I do remember how friggin hard they grab. | ||
| Ortegakid |
LRB's are the best I have ever used, but ya'll know that, have been saying that since '96, still the best.They do take very carefull bedding, and bleed your system with new good fluid, you will be happy! | ||
| Skully |
The LRBs also get rid of the deposits that the stock pads leave which in turn gets rid of the pulsing that many of us have experienced. See this for more info: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=6817&post=654068#POST 654068 Keith | ||
| Robino |
give us a quick rundown on how they should be bedded? | ||
| Spatten1 |
Liquor usually helps. Seriously, I think he means running them in so that the various high and low spots that radius the rotor will wear their shape into the pad so there is more surface contact. Other wise, a high spot in the radius will be the only contact with the pad. If the rotors were not so thin for lightness, you could spin them on a lathe like you can for an automobile to ensure that they are flat and have full contact with a new pad that is also flat. | ||
| 1stbuell |
I have them on my XB12 and love them. Got them from www.americansportbike.com | ||
| Ortegakid |
On the pads are full explicit instructions, but basically it amounts to lots of slow speed stops, followed by progressively faster ones, with lots of cooling in between.Most important factor, no race stops until FULLY bedded. Ask Al@ asb, he'll explain better than i , was a while ago since i did mine, have been in since new, 12k miles ago! | ||
| Spatten1 |
Man, I didn't even read those instructions. I went straight to the track. If you don't wear them in gradually is there a problem of glazing from heat on the contact spots? What is the end result? Lack of performance or wear? |
