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Swordsman
Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 09:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Okay, maybe not "new". Does Christmas still qualify me as a new owner?

Anyway, I've got two questions, if you would be so kind:

1.) My XB12Ss runs like crap at anything less than 3500 rpms. Surging, spluttering, occasional power loss cruising at 65 mph, but no backfiring. Does this sound like a TPS problem? From what I've already read here on BWB, I think it does, but I'd like a few confirmations just to be sure. Or, if it could be something else, please jump in and let me know.

2.) The cooling fan is already dying on me... whirring at random speeds, barely turning, clicking. My schedule doesn't allow me to take it into the shop for a week or two, so I thought I might remove the black cover on the right side (equivalent to the left side air scoop) to allow more air in. However, the rear mount of the cover actually slides over the bolt hole tab, and the bolt hole threading extends further than the hole is wide. How in the world do you get it off? If that didn't make any sense, take a look at my wonderful diagram.





Thanks in advance for any help you guys can offer!

~SM
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Davo
Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Swordsman,
There is a thread on the Uly page where a member pulled the right side off during a trip due to fan failure. I just ordered a fan to have on hand because of reported untimely fan failure. I paid about $70.00 for the fan. It is relatively easy to install. I would recommend replacing the fan rather than circumventing it's failure. Is your engine light coming on? The fan failure could be your only problem. Did you have the TPS reset prior to the poor performance?
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Firebolteric_ma
Posted on Sunday, May 21, 2006 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

that definately sounds like a tps issue on your bike. as for the rear bolt on the right side of the bike(while on it) that will come out. it needs to be turned a certain way and it will come out. i have header wrap on my bike which makes it even more difficult but it will come out with some patience. hope this helps you some.
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Swordsman
Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 08:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Davo, I'me definitely getting the fan replaced... less than 2000 miles and having parts failures already? Yeah, they're gonna' be fixin' that one under warranty, or heads will roll. I just can't take it in yet. The closest Buell dealership is an hour away, and they don't have a clue, so I'm having to take it to the next closest, which is nearly 2 hours away. Needless to say, that takes some planning. Also, the bike hasn't run hot yet... no check engine lights. I plan on getting wide lo-pro air scoops from Trojan soon, so I'll be taking that panel off anyway. To my knowledge, they did not perform a TPS reset at the 1000 mile service... they probably don't even know about it. As I mentioned above, the "local" dealership doesn't have a clue... they told me they couldn't feel anything wrong with it, and it practically bucks in 1st-3rd gear. That's when I figured out that I don't want them touching my bike!
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Stevenknapp
Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 08:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

For mine, TPS reset, cleaning the throttle plate, and setting the idle properly (the clean throttle plate knocked it up ~400rpm) helped the low RPM running tons.
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Ferrolano
Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 09:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have had the fan fuse blow once (at 41 mi). The dealer checked but couldn't find the cause--they blamed it on a PDI incident. Now at 260 miles and no recurrence of the problem.
Just changed engine and trans fluids--very necessary. No debris on engine magnetic drain plug, but lots of metal filings on trans plug. Will do it again at around 500-600 miles.
Since I've kept to 2,500-3,000 rpm's, the bike doesn't run very smoothly. So I hope that after 500 miles, when I can wick it up to 4,000 rpm's things will smooth out over the whole range. I don't want to rush it.
I don't mind spending the $$$ for a tool/software to set my own TPS. Is it fairly easy to do? Where can I purchase it?
Can someone with experience doing it post a step-by-step how to?
Finally, where does the "pennies in a can" sound come from? Mine has been doing it since the very beginning? It seems to be on the left hand side when running at between 2,200 rpm's and 2,700?
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Firebolteric_ma
Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

ferrolano, here are the directions for the vtsts software so you can reset your tps/a/f values etc. i would recomend doing your own tps resets as they are not hard after you have done one. plus all to often the dealer will mess it up on you. good luck w/ your bike!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Resetting the TPS using VDSTS SW
by Al Lighton, American Sport Bike
This document explains in detail how to use the VDSTS Software to reset the TPS on a Buell. It is not a comprehensive manual for VDSTS, and it assumes that you have successfully installed the SW and are capable of communicating with the ECM.

One note first about connectivity. If you can not communicate with the ECM, contact Technoresearch for assistance. I’d say that 80% of the cases where connectivity was not happening was when someone was using a substandard USB to RS232 adapter. The Radio Shack unit will not work, and some others won’t either. But the Keyspan will, as will many other reputable units. In other cases, connectivity didn’t work because of COM port conflicts, or in some cases, a defective cable.

First thing to understand is that there are two communication modes for the ECM, the normal diagnostics mode, and the active test mode. Not sure if Buell calls it this, but the semantics aren't all that important. What is important is that you have to be in Active Test mode to reset things like the AFV, TPS, Clear DTC's etc, and you have to be in Diagnostics mode to do the normal monitoring stuff (i.e., monitoring tach, throttle position, temperatures, etc).

The Active Test mode is entered by pushing the "button" (the icon at the top of the screen) that looks like a screwdriver. The Diagnostics mode has a few different presentations, Gauges, strip chart, or bar graph. But once you've selected the correct diagnostics mode, you still have to connect to the ECM. There is a button at the top for connecting (an icon that looks the right side of a desktop computer with a black line representing the cable coming out of it). If the ignition key and run switch are in the run position, you click that connect icon and the ECM will connect and start communicating. Connection status is displayed at the bottom of the screen.

Go to Diagnostic mode, go to the bar graph display, and configure three of the bar graphs to display Throttle Position, Throttle (Volt), and Throttle (%). Do this by clicking the Channels/Mode "Ch" icon button at the top of the screen and assigning three of the bar graphs to these functions. Connect with the ECM, and you should be able to see the throttle position responding to you opening and closing the throttle.

Some notes about what you are seeing. Throttle (volt) is an absolute reading. There is a Throttle Position Sensor potentiometer (pot) on the end of the throttle “butterfly” shaft, and the ECM is reading a voltage that varies depending upon the position of that pot. Depending upon how the shaft is attached to the pot, and the calibration of the pot itself, every throttle body will display a slightly different voltage when the butterfly is at any given position. This is why a TPS reset is mandatory any time the throttle body or Throttle Position Sensor is removed or changed.

Throttle position and Throttle (%) are positions relative to the zero point for the throttle butterfly. The purpose of a TPS reset is to tell the ECM what voltage is at the pot when the butterfly is completely closed (i.e., 0% open). The ECM is then capable of calculating the exact throttle position based on the offset voltage from the absolute voltage reading that it read when the butterfly was fully closed. Throttle position is the measure of the angle (degrees) that the throttle butterfly open between 0 and 85.

The first step of performing a TPS reset is to back the throttle stop screw off until it no longer is touching the stop on the butterfly shaft. The easiest way to check if the throttle stop is no longer engaged is to turn the throttle grip to zero and force it there gently. If when you start to open it, you can feel it gently sticking, this means that the butterfly is wedging in the throttle body and you have achieved absolute closure.

Activate the VDSTS SW, and put it in bar graph diagnostics mode. With the throttle screw backed off completely, force the throttle closed so that it gently sticks as described above. Note the Throttle (volt) value each time. It should be within .01 volts each time you do this. If not, there is something wrong with the throttle body or Throttle Position Sensor.

Click on the Active Test Mode. You will see a button that performs the TPS reset function.

Before you actually reset your TPS to zero, I recommend that you perform a test of the TPS reset procedure in order to confirm that the TPS reset is working properly. This is optional but may save some headaches if things don’t seem to be working right later. Hold the throttle in the 1/3 open position, and then execute a TPS reset in the Active test mode with it held steady there. The throttle should be held steady while the duration count decrements. Once you get a PASSED message, go back to Diagnostic mode, put it in bar graph mode as per above, and slowly open the throttle. If the Throttle Position bar graph remains stationary until you cross the threshold position that you held the throttle at (i.e., 1/3 throttle) and only then starts climbing, THEN you know that both communication modes are working correctly and that you have successfully set the TPS.

If that worked correctly, shut the throttle and gently force it closed at the throttle grip. Execute the TPS reset, and wait for the PASSED message to display. Go back to Diagnostics/Bar graph display mode. Slowly turn the throttle stop screw up until you get a Throttle Position Reading of 5.1. Start the engine, let it warm up to an indicated temperature of 320F, and adjust the idle to 1050 and you're done.

It is EXTREMELY important that the throttle plate is fully closed when the TPS is performed. Even slightly open will make the bike run poorly. The throttle butterfly must be made to gently stick in the closed position when the TPS is reset or you will not get proper engine operation.
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Yeags30
Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

first off check you battery connections....2nd check your oil level..Believe it or not when my oil was low my bike was acting crazy..Also my when my bike was running like crap i changed the plugs....might be tps but i wouldn't know ...i never had a problem with mine
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Swordsman
Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 07:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Battery: Check
Oil: Check
Spark Plugs: Fine, though a tad sooty.

Does it void the warranty if you buy one of those gizmos and do it yourself?
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Davo
Posted on Monday, May 22, 2006 - 07:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Swordsman,
Are you familiar with the jumper wire method of retrieving trouble codes? It sounds like you are running rich. My guess is TPS and/or ET sensor failure or a poor connection on the ET circuit. The default is high resistance on the ET when cold if the resistance does not drop then the engine heats up you will run rich. An open or poor connection will cause this. An open should throw a code 14.
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