| Author | Message | ||
     Pcmodeler |
I can't find any spec in the manual. However, I have a T-40 and T-45. The T-40 seems a little loose and given the amount of torque needed to break the bolts loose, it wants to start stripping out the hole. A T-45 is too big. I've never had a problem with my driver set before as far as fit. Both the rotor and sprocket are doing this. Do I maybe just need a new T-40? | ||
| Diablobrian |
I used a t-40 on my rear rotor. | ||
| Cmm213 |
I hear ya guys , this is one of my dislikes about some of the hardware on my bike. I have all the right tools and some of my allen hardware has almost been stripped out because the proper size isn't a perfect fit?? Like the three allen bolts that hold the foot peg section on, I have had trouble with those. | ||
| Xb12burner |
I've completely stripped out two T-27's just trying to remove the airbox cover and lower chin spoiler. I think that I'm going to try some new hardware. | ||
| Mr_cuell |
I just used a t40 yesterday and I thought it would strip but it it made it . . sort of. Halfway through the job the brand new Kobalt t40 attached to my 3/8 driver broke. The t40 just sheared. Luckily its unconditionally guaranteed, but it still caught me off the guard. I thought the bolt had gone, not the the torx . . . | ||
| Mr_cuell |
Those mothers are tight - | ||
| Mr_cuell |
Just broke new t40 this morning after using it on only two more rear pulley bolts. I am having to use a 24 inch breaker bar to get these things loose. Everyone else's that tight? Back to Lowes . . . | ||
| Odinbueller |
Hardware on the rear wheel uses lockpatch to keep them torqued to spec. You may need to upgrade your tool to an impact socket, or perhaps a different brand. | ||
| Pcmodeler |
I'm going to head to Sears during lunch and pick up another one. | ||
| Rich |
Heat. | ||
| Pcmodeler |
Good point. | ||
| Pcmodeler |
Well, one twist and I've already destroyed one of the new t-40's. Guess I'm taking those (I bought two) back. | ||
| Firebolteric_ma |
are the bolts the same on the front rotor as they are on the rear rotor? | ||
| Pcmodeler |
Yeah. I took the rotor off a front rim with no problem....it's the bolts on the rear rotor and sprocket that are torqued on tighter than a witches...... | ||
| Jpxb9 |
Try hammer knock on the T-40 to break loctite | ||
| Rocketman |
Using a longer breaker bar is usually not the answer. For example, Snap-on's 1/2" standard length breaker offers a lot more torque than the slightly longer length 1/2" breaker. Too much flex in the long bar. I agree, to get tight studs undone strike the stud, or the tool you're using in situ, with a heavy hammer. Rocket | ||
| Pcmodeler |
Finally manged to get them off. Check this thread for my experience: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/198198.html?1147822920 | ||
| Odinbueller |
Another good (but sometimes expensive) tool to have in these situations is an impact driver, That along with the appropriate impact socket are ideal. You don't really want to overheat the rotor to break the lockpatch, as you may warp the rotor. Just something to keep in mind. Chris | ||
| Pcmodeler |
Not a huge deal in this case (although I don't really want to warp the rotor if I don't need to) but I have a wave rotor on it's way and the rear sprocket is also being replaced. | ||
| Odinbueller |
If you use a moderate amount of heat from a blow dryer or heat gun, you shouldn't have any problems. DO NOT use a propane torch or the like  Chris |
