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Jak
Posted on Sunday, May 07, 2006 - 01:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

At 3300 miles I changed the oil to the HD Syn 3 stuff and I purchased enough to do the tranny as well. Problem is, I really don't know what I'm doing and I don't have a manual. Could someone please give me a little description of the tranny change? Much appreciated as always.

Jak
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Davo
Posted on Sunday, May 07, 2006 - 02:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Jak,
This info is from the Ulysses (xb12x) manual but not word for word.
1. Get the bike hot and drain the oil with the bike straight up and level.
2. Clean the magnetic drain plug. Apply LOCKTITE 565 THREAD SEALANT. Reinstall the plug and tighten to 14-30 ft.-lbs. (my opinion: 12-14 ft.-lbs.)
3. Remove the three fasteners and washers form the clutch inspection cover with gasket from primary cover. (my opinion: be careful with the nut with the spring on it. It may fall out. The cover and the spring keep it in place. It locks the clutch adjustment screw in place. If you do not make a internal clutch adjustment, make sure that you put it back in place with out turning the center screw.)
4. Add primary lube ( 1 Quart) until the level is even with the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (with the bike straight up and level)
5. Install a new clutch cover gasket and tighten to 84-108 in.-lbs. (That is INCH-LBS. NOT FOOT-LBS.!!!! I wouldn't go tighter than 84 in.-lbs. "Screw driver tight" not "wrench tight" Be careful not to strip the threads!

If you decide to adjust the clutch while
you are in there then just let me know.

Any on-lookers please review my instructions. Thanks.
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Jak
Posted on Sunday, May 07, 2006 - 03:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So what number do I call to schedule an appointment with my dealer???? Cripes, that seems a bit more difficult than I was anticipating. I'll need to purchase some more tools also. Thanks for the info.
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Davo
Posted on Sunday, May 07, 2006 - 06:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Jak,
3/8 drive torque wrench with inch-lbs., #27 torx socket, a set of 3/8 drive allen wrench sockets, and a manual is all you need. It is really easy to do the work yourself. You bike will be in better hands if you do it yourself. The only thing that requires a computer reset is the TPS (Throttle {Position Sensor)reset. The "VDSTS" software (From American Sportbike)is about $200.00 and then you are good to go. For about a $400.00-500.00 dollars total you can embark on what I consider to be the real essence to motorcycling. Freedom of the road means freedom from the shop as well! The manual is good and it only has one major mistake so far. They list the torque spec for the engine oil plug way to tight. Go with 14 ft.-lbs. max! The folks on this website are very helpful as well. Remember, you need your bike and your bike needs you!
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, May 07, 2006 - 07:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

GET A "MOTORS MANUAL and a PARTS BOOK" for
the YEAR/MODEL of your BUELL ...

READ AND LEARN !!!
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Lovematt
Posted on Sunday, May 07, 2006 - 07:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It is not that difficult to do the work on these XBs. I am not a master mechanic but I have learned a lot doing things myself and seeking out help along the way (just like you are doing). I too was a bit apprehensive about working on the bike since it seemed more specialized but after doing the simple stuff and moving on from there it was not so difficult.

Seriously changing the engine and primary (tranny) oil is not difficult at all. I would say you should get the service manual and parts book. I find that I use the service manually initially the first few times to understand how something is done...and TAKE YOUR TIME! If something doesn't seem to jive with the book or doesn't seem right...stop and back up a little to make sure before going onward.

After I learn a given process, I tend to use the Parts Book after that with the torque settings on the critical bolts. The parts book is really nice for showing how things fit together since it is full of exploded views with lines connecting everything.

Consider yourself lucky that the XBs generally don't require more complex maintenance such as adjusting valves or digging deeper in the bike once in a while like other bikes do. For example my Motard Manual says the valves have to be adjusted every 11,000 miles...this means I would have had to have this done twice already in two years...but XBs are rated at something like 100,000 miles or more.

I hear what you are saying Jak...but if you have the time (even if it is just "an hour here...an hour there"), I would start out with the simpler stuff like oil changes and try it yourself. Also do the other stuff on the check list in the Service Manual (also in Owners Manual) at the 2500/5000 marks. I am certain you will get another form of enjoyment with having a bike in doing this work yourself...plus you can really save a lot of money. How does $50 bucks for getting the stuff for oil change yourself versus $150-$200 to have someone else do it sound? At that rate you can get y our own tools and still save some money in the long run.
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Jak
Posted on Sunday, May 07, 2006 - 08:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I completed the oil change with no problems. I'll need to swing by the dealership to get a new gasket and I'll have to find my local Snap-On dealer for some new wrenches. By the way, the Syn 3 that I dumped in yesterday is great. I swear I can feel the difference already. Everything feels so much smoother now.
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