| Author | Message | ||
     Jjoehler |
I would like to know if any one knows how to check to the primary chain tension? How loose is loose? If it is loose how do I adjust? THANKS | ||
| Buellistic |
3/4 inch on the tight spot, cold "PERIOD" !!! | ||
| Djkaplan |
There is a screw thingie under the engine that looks like a drain plug, but isn't. You use an Allen wrench to adjust the chain tension and lock it down with a hex nut. You check the tension by removing the small plate on the primary cover (it's on the left side). You need to get a service manual for your bike. It's a pretty good read. | ||
| Jjoehler |
Man you guys are really helpful I appreciate the help. I would rather do this myself than take bike to the dealer they already got enough of my money. | ||
| Firewhirl |
A freaking 2 yr old can do it it's that easy. Better to go a little loose than too tight if you are not sure it's 3/4. You also need to turn the chain and measure it at different spots. Where ever it is tighest that should be 3/4 inch | ||
| Sik_s |
According to the SM it says 3/8"-1'2" cold. Where are you guys getting 3/4"? | ||
| M1combat |
3/8ths to 1/2" cold AT THE TIGHT SPOT is correct. If it's any more than that the bike won't shift right. 3/4" may be correct for the tube frames. | ||
| Jackbequick |
And when you take the measurement, push up hard with the tip of your finger. If it will deflect 5/16" to 3/8" up with a hard push, that means you have5/8" to 3/4" total up and down. The "extra" 1/4" (5/8-3/4" versus 3/8-1/2") has proven to be a number that works well in the experience a number of people here and on a number of different Buell models. It seems to eliminate the clunking noises from the case being slapped by too loose chains and the whining chain noises and shifting problems seen with too tight chains. It is known that the primary chain will tighten up some after it gets warm. So it may be that extra 1/4" simply helps avoid an overtight warm chain in cases where the tightest spot was missed during the adjustment. The Buell service manuals are good but experience has shown that they are not infallible. Another well known example of where the SM is not right is the recommended secondary drive belt adjustment on tubers. Setting it as per the SM will shorten the life of the seals and bearings on the transmission output shaft at the drive pulley. And it is also harder on the drive belts. Jack | ||
| Buellistic |
Sik_s: The SM is wrong !!! This came from part number 99477-64R Sepecifications and Instructions for COMPETION Models KR-TT and Sportster XLR-TT at 5/8 to 3/4 inch(3/4 inch "PERIOD" is BETTER) ... | ||
| M1combat |
I give the chain a good push up and down and adjust to 1/2" play. I do this ONLY after the bike has sat at garge temp for a full night. I pull it out of the garage and adjust the primary to 1/2" at the tight spot. The bike shifts well every time as long as I get the fluid level correct. If it's too loose I get false neutrals. In my experience, 3/4" is too loose and would give me false neutrals between one and two and will make shifting from two to one very clunky and it's a shift that I have to consciously make "hard". I always match revs. Please advise. | ||
| Tattoo72 |
How do you guys turn the chain to find the tight spot? | ||
| Exitlandrew |
Crank the engine over. | ||
| Jackbequick |
I put the bike up on the centerstand, pull the spark plugs, put the bike in 5th, and turn the rear wheel. I advance the chain a few links at a time and check it with my finger. If I have a helper, they turn the wheel. I also wet a rag with parts cleaner, wipe the oil off the chain sideplate in the tight spot(s) and mark them with a Sharpie permanent ink marker. So far the marks have survived for about 8-9 months. Yeah, I know, that is the slow way. But I've only done it once so far. With the marks, rechecks are real fast. Jack | ||
| Sik_s |
"I put the bike up on the centerstand, pull the spark plugs, put the bike in 5th, and turn the rear wheel." Is this the only way to move the chain and do I have to pull the spark plugs? Speaking of spark plugs doesn't that require a special tool to remove them? Thanks. | ||
| Cmm213 |
I'm with M1 anything over 1/2" on my bike and the chain slaps around and it doesnt shift as well. | ||
| Buellistic |
Cmm213: "PLEASE" define "doesn't shift well" ??? YOU NEED TO KEEP THE REV's BETWEEN 2500 and 3000 RPM or you are LUGING THE ENGINE !!! | ||
| Jackbequick |
If you don't have a centerstand, you can put a piece of 1/2" rebar through the hollow axles and put the rear wheel up on two jackstands. Some other ways are: Leave the rear wheel on the ground and bump the bike forward a little (in gear) to move the chain (plugs in or out, out would be easier). Use the starter, just giving it quick taps and hoping it don't start. Use the starter with the spark leads pulled off the plugs so it does not start. Use the starter with the plugs out so it turns over easy and don't start. Getting the plugs out requires a 5/8" open end wrench and about 10 seconds on a tuber, not sure about an XB. Marking the tight spot really saves time if the first adjustment does not get it right. Part of the issue is that I'm a little anal retentive about details and I just wanted to advance the chain a few links at a time and make sure I checked it all and did not miss the tight spot. With the starter some of it might whiz past and I might miss the tight spot. Just to cover something that has come up here before, I would not put my finger in there with the engine running or while I was actually advancing the chain by any of the methods mentioned above. Once you get the primary chain, clutch adjusting screw, and clutch lever all right it is like a magical transformation. Whining and clunking noises go away, shifting is trouble free, and you love your bike again! Jack | ||
| Skully |
I have the same experience as M1. I can tell when my primary chain needs adjustment as I start getting gear clash and false neutrals. This usually happens when the chain slack exceeds the service manual specifications. Keith | ||
| Buellistic |
Skully: Can not believe you said that being the racer you are ??? | ||
| Cmm213 |
Hey Buellistic the way I have my chain adjusted it shifts great through the entire rev range, even great at redline where a lot of my shifts are made. I'm the last person you should tell not to lug the motor. I usually cruise at 3000. | ||
| Skully |
For me lugging the motor on my XB9 is anything below 4,000 RPM!  |
