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Chucklaw
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 12:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hi! I'm new to Buells and just purchased a 2003 XB9S a few days ago. I love the bike! I seem to have a hard time finding neutral when the bike is running. I can get it, but only after several attempts. Sometimes I can't get the bike to shift up from first when stopped and the clutch in. I try to roll the bike back and forth with no luck. Any suggestions?
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Diablobrian
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 12:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

there are two things that can contribute. One is proper primary fluid level.
The other is primary chain tension.

I hope you have a service manual, or plan on getting one. They are great manuals and nearly worth their weight in gold.

BTW welcome to badweb!
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Chucklaw
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 12:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yes, I have the manual but I haven't had a chance to look over it yet. I'll check those things out first chance I get. Thanks!
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Jackbequick
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 07:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Welcome to some serious fun!

Buells seem to have slighlty hard to find neutral detent even when everything is right. A gentle lift up or nudge down from 2nd while still rolling (with the clutch out even) will often hit it easily and every time.

If I stop in gear, moving my foot forward to get the lever higher up on the top of my foot seems to let me make a shorter, more controlled movement.

But I usually look for it rolling if I can.

On a used bike with no knowledge of recent work, I'd adjust the primary chain, then the clutch actuator, and then the cable length/clutch lever freeplay. Doing all three adjustments seems to be the secret sometimes.

The lever freeplay is easy to fine tune later if your still getting some gear clash or a little lurch or pulling at stop. A moderate to loud "clack" into low is normal from a stop cold but it shouldn't lurch or pull any.

Jack

(Message edited by jackbequick on March 30, 2006)
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Vanvideo
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 08:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My problem is finding neutral too often! I don't know how many times I shift from 1st to 2nd gear and hit a false neutral (no NEUTRAL light) and rev the heck out of my engine. Embarrassing. But it is an '03 model and I keep saying, "well, it's a Harley tranny."
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Drift
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 08:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Biggest thing that helped me was synthetic gear oil. I use Amsoil but, you can use whatever is available like Mobil one. I tried the Synth 3 but, it performed just like regular motor oil in my opinion.
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 08:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Clutch must be adjusted correctly ...

Primary Chain adusted to 3/4 inch on the
tight spot, cold !!!
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Dark_angel01
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have an 04 xb12r with 248 miles on it and it is really hard for me to find nuetral has well. Also when I am stopped when I put the bike in 1st I always get this loud thud. All of my other bikes have done this has well but man when you shift a Buell you know you found the gear.
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M1combat
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 11:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yep... Clutch adjustment, primary chain adjustment (too loose is WAY better than too tight here...) and proper fluid level.

I use Mobil-1 75-90W gear oil. When I drain it, I level the bike to get the last little bit out. If you do that it'll take a full quart and be at the right level.

As far as primary chain tension and clutch... Go by the book. Do NOT set the primary tension too tight. Both adjustments are easy to do. When they are all adjusted properly, the shifting will be just fine, but with one caveat... Don't be easy with the lever. Shift like you mean it.
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

BOOK IS "WRONG" !!!
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Related discussion can be found HERE. : )

If you experience difficulty shifting from neutral into 1st gear while stopped and with a not yet warmed-up tranny, try blipping throttle with the clutch lever pulled in just before shifting from neutral into 1st gear, especially if tranny is not yet warmed up. Doing so speeds up the rotation of the input side of the clutch thus helping to sling off any tenaciously stubborn residual tranny lube still clinging to/between the input and output clutch plates thus better allowing the output (tranny) side to stop spinning as though it were still truly engaged via clutch to the input (engine) side.

The same clinging tranny lube scenario can also result from even just a slightly overfilled tranny. In similar fashion the lube collecting and now continuously redeposited between the input and output clutch plates will tend to form a viscous connection there thus making it difficult to find neutral as well as exacerbating the hard clunk when shifting from neutral into 1st gear. All that on account of the clutch's output side (tranny side) never stops spinning on account of the excess tranny lube is mechanically connecting it through viscous action to the spinning engine/input side. The tranny output shaft meanwhile is stationary as it is linked to the rear wheel. Mating a spinning gear to a stationary one is problematic to say the least. Best case, a loud clunk results. Worst case, transmission parts are damaged.

Don (M1combat) has his own personal tranny fluid changing routine well established for his bike. For any others, I'd strongly advise visually confirming proper transmission fluid level, at least for the first three or four times that you change it yourself and until you are able to confidently establish a procedure like Don uses.

The fluid should just barely touch the bottom edge of the circular disk shaped clutch spring. That spring will be the first part of the entire clutch pack to touch the tranny fluid as it is replenished, so it is easy to identify.

Reminder to all: It would be great if this kind of stuff, motorcycle related technical issues, could be posted to the Knowledge Vault. Please keep that in mind? : ) And PLEASE fight the temptation to explain why you don't want to honor my humble plea. : )

172689

(Message edited by blake on March 30, 2006)
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Redbull
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 02:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'm having a problem too, with my 03. Bought it new, no problems until recently. Cant get down into neutral or first. Clutch feels kinda "funny." I cant explain it any better than that. So, I changed the fluid, got it to the right level, adjusted the cable, and the clutch. Everything I did is to spec by the manual. Still giving me problems. I'm hoping I didn't bend a fork or something. I'm gonna check the primary chain tonight. I bet it's not gonna help, any takers? I'm fuming, I was gonna ride today (weather's perfect).
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Dmextreme
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 02:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Welcome to BADWEB!!!



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Blake
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 03:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

172689

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/4011.html
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Cmm213
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 08:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Once I adjusted my chain and gave it some synthetic it was all good
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Earwig
Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2006 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I had this problem too, after breaking it in it goes into neutral a lot easier. For now give the bike some throttle while clicking up into neutral with the clutch lever pulled in... it will pop into neutral easily.

(Message edited by earwig on March 30, 2006)
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Blake
Posted on Friday, March 31, 2006 - 01:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I would say to "blip" the throttle to be safe. I'm afraid someone might misinterpret "give it some throttle" as a suggestion to hold it at higher revs. And that would be bad.

We might could be even more concise...

Pull in clutch; blip throttle; as revs settle down shift decisively into 1st gear from neutral. : )
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Chucklaw
Posted on Saturday, April 01, 2006 - 12:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for all the help!
Now that I've been riding it for a week, I seem to be able to find it better now. Every once in a while it gives me problems. But not so much anymore. I'll still check out the bike once I find some time, and change everything over to synthetic oils. Thanks!
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