| Author | Message | ||
     Buellfirebolt31 |
I've heard of these but I've never heard the specific parts to use. How long of bolt, how thick of bolt, how to mount??? Thanks a ton....Brad | ||
| Moonrunrs |
Ask Percyco. He posted how to do it with the list of parts. I followed his instructions and built my own; however, I don't remember the parts list offhand. It was REALLY easy, though, it only took me about an hour to do and costs less than $20, including shipping for the wheels. Don't quote me, but I think it was a 5/16 threaded rod and 9/16 acorn nuts and washers. 52mm skate wheels and some plastic tubing you can get in the plumbing dept at any hardware store. Very easy to do. Just measure the length of rod you need and cut with a hacksaw, then slide the rod into the plastic tubing. Slide the tube through the axles and attach the skate wheels with the washers and nuts. That's it! | ||
| Trojan |
A word of warning when using skateboard wheels as sliders: They are designed to grip, not slide. There have been a few reports in the UK of people using these and causing more damage than if they hadn't bothered at all. Probably OK for car park speed tip overs but not much above that. | ||
| Chgojim |
i'm with trojan...i always wondered about the wheel not sliding and/or cracking in half under the stress of a sliding wreck. the harder the wheel, the better the chance of them sliding. the hardness is the wheels durometer. the higher the durometer the harder the wheel. for example, i play inline hockey (indoors) on sport court tiles, and use a 73A (very soft wheel to grip the plastic sportcourt tiles. outdoors, on asphalt, i'll use an 84A. and then for the kids, that use their inline skates to slide down hand rails...they are using wheels with a hardness of around 95A-100A, for the inside two wheels that cradle the rail. the moral of the story...they will work for a tip over, and they may work for more. but please know what kind of wheel you are buying to protect your bike. | ||
| Moonrunrs |
Yeah, I've heard this too and thought about it. Someone on here posted a picture of their skate sliders after a crash. The bike didn't flip, luckily. The wheels I bought are pretty hard. Don't know the rating, but they're more like plastic than rubber. | ||
| Moonrunrs |
Also, I saw someone use steel cabinet knobs instead of skate wheels. I already have the 5/16 rod. If I can find some small knobs that fit the rod, I would consider changing them out. | ||
| Buellfirebolt31 |
Does the rod actually have "play" inside the axle, or does the plastic and everything fit flush together and snug? Thanks for your alls inputs, Brad. | ||
| Blazinc5 |
If you know someone with access to a lathe you can turn a set of sliders that way.. I just got done makeing a set for my 12R However I am lucky that I work at a machine shop and they had some blue round plastic scrap laying around... Can't tell ya what kind of plastic it is either,,, it's hard and I can't pronounce it's name.. just hope I never have to use them on the bike. lol | ||
| Moonrunrs |
No, the rod sits inside and doesn't touch the axle at all. The plastic just protects the inside when you slide it in and out. The washer and skate wheel keeps the rod from touching any part of the bike's rim. FYI -- I've also seen full sets of steel axle sliders on Ebay for about $65. That's not a bad price. More expensive than making your own, but cheaper than the aluminum ones for $100 from darkhorsemoto | ||
| Xb9ser |
The sliders from DHM are a proven idem high quality and look good.Also good service after sale and they help keep this board here for us!!! | ||
| Skully |
Moonrunrs (G.D. Tong) DarkHorseMoto's slider kits start at $49.95 and go all the way up to $64.95 (spool style with black powder coat) - still very much a bargain when you look at the expensive parts on the motorcycle they protect.  The kits are complete with instructions, stainless steel hardware, and we even supply Loctite. Where did you see them for $100.00? Keith | ||
| Skully |
Thanks Glenn! | ||
| Soon2be1 |
well.. does any one remember having a skate board as a kid??.. yeah remember when you ran your fingers over screwing around.. go to your local skateboard shop and just play with some of the wheels.. they are mostly a very hard poly compound. They make them in soft and hard for different skate setups.. grind down the inner part (going into the axle) and create a lip so they wont wove around. A lot cheaper then aluminum and have you ever wondered what most frame sliders are made of??... the same stuff. | ||
| Metalstorm |
I really like my DHM sliders. I have the stealth rear type rather than the spool style. They look like they'll last forever providing I keep my bike upright & never go down  I've seen pics of how well they protect the bike when it does go down. As poor as I am, I realized that it would be cheaper in the long run to pony up the $$ for sliders than spend 10X that if I should go down with out swing arm & fork protection. How fast do roller skaters & skate boarders usually go? I'm thinking a motorcycle goes a bit faster. Would those skate wheels hold up to so much friction should you go down at say 70-80 mph? | ||
| Stealthxb |
Metalstorm... speed of skating is limited by bearings not the plastic of the wheels. | ||
| Metalstorm |
Ah, I see. Thank you | ||
| Diablobrian |
Actually most sliders are made from a hard plastic like delrin or similar. These have low friction and are very hard. Run a file across a skateboard wheel then across a plastic slider. you'll see a huge difference in harness and friction. | ||
| Xb9ser |
Another disadvantage of skateboard wheel sliders, if you go down at any speed there is nothing to keep them centered in the axel.They could move to one side and allow swingarm contact with pavement.Has any body running them had a crash at speed?The DHM sliders are machined to fit inside the axel about 3/4 inch so they can't shift.Think about it your BUELL is a big investment why not protect it with a proven & tested product. just my 2 cents worth thanks Glenn | ||
| Nsbuell |
I made pieces to keep my skateboard sliders centred in the axle...but I doubt that the slider moving 1/2" either way is going to cause the swingarm to contact the pavement anyway. | ||
| Blake |
Keith, The Moony cheapskater (get it, "skate"? ![: ]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) ) is likely talking about a set of front plus rear axles sliders. And I'd like to clarify that it isn't the value of the parts that sliders protect that make your sliders worth their price; it's the quality of material and design the service and support that add value to a set of DHM sliders. Not sure any other sliders ship with their own supply of loctite and clear detailed installation instructions. A set of typical plastic sliders for most any Japanese sport bike will run about the same if not more than what a set of nicely machined aircraft aluminum alloy DHM sliders cost. Trust me, Keith ain't getting rich selling sliders. Material, machining, assembly, shipping... it adds up in a hurry. Yeah, Keith is a close personal friend of mine too, so forgive me if I might appear a bit biased, on account of I am. | ||
| Blake |
172689 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/3603.html | ||
| Metalstorm |
I'd only call you biased if what you said wasn't true but since it is.. I guess I'll just call you well informed  I wasn't going to mention the time & care it takes to machine them since not many relate to it but everyone relates to protecting their investment  | ||
| Skully |
Thanks guys, I do appreciate it! Keith | ||
| Aldaytona |
For those who haven't actually seen DHM sliders in person....................Top shelf quality from a real good guy. The End |
