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Spacemonkey
Posted on Sunday, March 19, 2006 - 07:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

for those w/wrapped pipes....did you do it yourself? how difficult was it?
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Dmextreme
Posted on Sunday, March 19, 2006 - 07:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i did it myself.. not hard.. just time consuming when the wrap is like 50-100 ft long hahahah mine was 50 ft.. wear a mask.. the fibers from the wrap can be irritating. just depends on the person.. but after I got done I was covered with tons of small shiny fibers from the wrap.. my wife asked if I was playing with fiberglass. Time consuming.. not hard. Enjoi!!!
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Kccyclone
Posted on Sunday, March 19, 2006 - 07:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Make sure and soak the wrap in water before you put it on..(keeps the dust down and it's easier to work)...also make sure and wrap it so the leading edge is not catching the wind...and use the silicone spray coating when all is said and done to protect it...

Larry
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Holling
Posted on Sunday, March 19, 2006 - 07:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

What about the wrap holding in the exhaust pipe heat and causing the engine to run hotter? Is this a possible consequence?
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Dmextreme
Posted on Sunday, March 19, 2006 - 08:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i was bored.. so hear I show ya..



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Thansesxb9rs
Posted on Sunday, March 19, 2006 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Soak it in water so you can get a nice tight wrap, plus it cuts down on the air borne fibers. Once you have it wrapped you can use hose clamps on the ends to keep it in place or safety wire.

Start bike and let it warm up and dry out the wrap plus it will need to burn (not the burn you are thinking of) the wrap and it will also shrink. Don't worry it will smoke a lot and stink really bad so do this outside.

Once it is done smoking and stinking mask off the entire bike except for the headers where they are wrapped. I say the whole bike because of the chance of over spray and wind.

Now you will need to coat it with a silcone based sealer/paint, DEI makes this. Once you have the desired amount you want on, I did 3 or 4 light coats, you will take the masking off and start the bike and let it run for a long time. This will cure the silcone/paint and seal the wrap from water which will make it last a lot longer then if you didn't coat it.



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Cmm213
Posted on Sunday, March 19, 2006 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey holling the more heat you keep in the exhaust the better. It creates exhaust velocity and pulls the gasses out of the head better. Thats what i've been told for years.
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Windaddiction
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 02:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check my thread on the uly part of the forum. I just wrapped mine used all the same techniques (hose clamps ect) I only did it in 2 wraps. Did the front header to where it joins the other pipe and clamped both ends. Then the rear header interlacing with the front one and continuing down to that base, and then lock wiring the base. I have yet to coat mine and probally wont! I like the caramel look!

(Message edited by windaddiction on March 20, 2006)
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2k4xb12
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 08:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)





As others have mentioned, soak it in water to keep the fibers down. Also, if oyu're using the black wrap, do it outside because the wet wrap will make a mess with the black water that will run off of it...
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Hogs
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 08:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So you guys are starting at the front header up at the top by the head , wrapping down as far as ya can go clamping it with clamps up at the head and down in the Y..?
Then starting up at the rear head and going down , over lapping the front pipe at the y and continuing down and then clamping down at the bottom and again at the top of the rear head, so a total of 4 clamps...Says to over lap no more thAN A 1/4 INCH IS This what you have all done?? Thanks
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2k4xb12
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

That's pretty much it. I started at the rear header forst, then the front, over the collector and down toward the bottom. Yes, 4 clamps (I used stainless tie-wraps). Mine is 1" wide with about a 50% overlap.

Steve.
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Bullen
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Where do you get those wraps? local hardware store? Can they damage the exhaust pipe in any way, melting or so? Really like that black look!
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Skyguy
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 11:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

2k4xb12,
Who makes the pulley guard? I really like it.
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2k4xb12
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 12:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Bullen, The wrap is available from www.Eastwood.com

Skyguy, The pulley guard is made by RRC and purchased through Trojan Horse

The round cover that attaches to the pulley itself is by Banke Performance

Hope this helps...
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Dmextreme
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 12:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

you can find them on ebay.. thats where I got mine.. yeah and balck does look nice.. but i like the caramel look. so i used the white. It doesn't melt. As far as i know it smokes really good first couple of times.. but other than that.. no biggie. does nto melt.

: ) What is the spray you guys are using for the wrap? And are you using it before or after you have it on? Tanks.
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Spacemonkey
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

did you guys take the headers off to wrap them or leave them on the bike?
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Chadhargis
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 01:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

This looks like it might help with the heat coming off the header. A few questions.

1) Do you have to re-wrap them periodically?

2) If you decide to remove it, does it leave any residue?

3) Does it actually work, or is it cosmetic? Anyone have any hard numbers on performance gains, or lower temps?

4) What does holding all that heat in do to the header and muffler. What about exhaust gaskets? Don't they get hotter?
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Dmextreme
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 01:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thansesxb9rs

You have a link for the Silicone spray? Thanks!
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Diablobrian
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It is difficult, but not impossible to wrap the headers on the bike. I did it without
dropping the motor, but I started just below the o2 sensor on the rear pipe.
If done correctly and the silicone spray is used this should be a fairly permanent
thing on a bike. Since the pipes are stainless steel you should be able to polish
out any marks left by the wrap.
There is definitely a difference in the amount of heat radiated by the pipes. that
was my primary reason for wrapping my pipes. I have not had it on the dyno since
this was done, I also did not take temp readings.
The exhaust and muffler can handle the heat easily. A lean motor produces more
heat in the pipe than a properly tuned one with wrapped pipes. Ever seen pics of
a motor with the pipes glowing red? They don't get anywhere near there with wrapping.
The gasses move through the pipe faster because of the difference in temp (ideal gas law)
dictates the velocity of the exhaust through the pipe.
Warning!!!! science content!
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/HBASE/kinetic/idegas.html

(Message edited by diablobrian on March 20, 2006)
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 01:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

1) Not unless "i" have to !!!

2) Perferred to do my wrap on a extra
header !!!

3) Does work, but is old school tech. as
HIGH TECH. coating inside and out is
"BETTER" !!!

4) IT DOES NOT HOLD THE HEAT IN THE
EXHAUST SYSTEM, "BUT" causes the
exhaust and heat to move through the
system QUICKER !!!
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Bullen
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 02:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I will wrap mine because of the looks! Like taken from madmax! And if it will do some for the HP thats a bonus!
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Diablobrian
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 02:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

the silicone spray is available from summitracing.com, and from easwood.
in silver,
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=3387&itemType=PRODUCT
or in black,

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=3386&itemType=PRODUCT

here is a link to any other supplies you might need. a 1" wide 50 foot roll will
do about 1 1/2 XB pipes. the stainless bands they sell to hold the ends are better
than hose clamps, but are single use items.
http://eastwood.resultspage.com/search?p=Q&ts=custom&w=pipe+wrap
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Hogs
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 03:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Diablobrain,
So if I understand you right, "IF" anything wrapping headers may make the bike run a small and I say small bit leaner,being able to SUCK the gas out a little quicker, Having said that IF anything one might have to adjust the TFI a little bit richer IF anything at all, YOU surely wdn`t have to lean it out any Correct?? Remember I said IF anything at all wd. help to lean the mixture out a LADY HAir for choice of better words..!
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Diablobrian
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 04:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Actually I would suspect that if anything the faster evacuation of the pipe would cause a stronger "pull" and
thereby draw more of an air/fuel charge into the cylinder. It may actually improve, or richen, a lean running
cylinder. Thats all theoretical of course. As I said I haven't had my bike on the dyno since wrapping the pipes.
Our ECM is pretty "smart" and should pretty quickly normalize itself.

(Message edited by diablobrian on March 20, 2006)
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Smoothsax
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 06:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)




Hey guys,
I got my wrap from summit. They have a deal for one 50ft 2 in. wrap, the silicone spray, and they give you 12 of the SS ties for free. It cost me $48.00. It was a messy job but well worth it. I love the look of the headers wrapped. I will be spraying the black very shortly.
Billy
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Rageonthedl
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 07:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Here is pic of my wrapped stock header and a pic with a wrapped force.







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Thansesxb9rs
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 08:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I used DEI wrap and silcone spray, I bought both of them off of ebay. 50ft of black wrap $32ish and can of spary $10ish. Couldn't find a better price anywhere else.

Make sure that you buy the 2in wide wrap and not the 1in.

I left the headers on the bike, it wasn't that hard once I got started. I think it took a little over an hour but that was because I had to rewrap it a few times to get the spacing and desired tightness.

Give it a try it isn't that hard. If you do use the spray make sure you cure the wrap completely first.

IT WILL SMOKE REALLY BAD WHEN IT CURES!
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Hogs
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 09:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Diablobrain,
That may be true for a next to stocker, However I was thinking IF one had the 90 inch kit on ,IF anything wd. it make it a notch fatter or leaner??
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Diablobrian
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 09:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hogs,
There would be something terribly wrong if you got the 90" kit but did not
get the throttle body bored and injectors changed to match the motor. These
days I would definitely spend the money on direct link and some time on the
dyno to get it tuned properly. Compared to the price of the motor these details
are cheap! That's the last place you want to cut corners.
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Hogs
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 09:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

No one said about cutting corners, Just curious as which way it wd. go, As FAr as I have heard in the past IF anything it wd. make it a little on the leaner side if anything at all, But you are saying the Opposite, So as I said just getting others point of view..on the wrap in general..
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Diablobrian
Posted on Monday, March 20, 2006 - 09:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It's all good. The principal I am working with is similar to the expansion chambers
on a 2-stroke. you increase the charge efficiency by increasing the exhaust velocity.
timing the pulse to the stroke is not the critical thing it is on 2 strokes since there
are valves that keep things flowing in the proper direction.

Does this make sense? I could be wrong of course. Im operating in the theoretical here of course.
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