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Buell_892
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 07:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So i should have my special ops exhaust this weekend...

is there anything i should know when i got to install or uninstall my old exhaust, as i have never done it. Thanks

Alex
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Typeone
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 09:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

not really, it's a cake process but i like to use cardboard or some other protection underneath so you don't scratch/dent the can coming off and the one going on. maybe one other thing to keep in mind is to not go nuts on the straps, they don't seem like they need the full torque listed in the manual. i go by 'feel'.
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Mike_bolts
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 10:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Alex, I just did my Special OPS pipe this weekend, the install is quite simple, you will need a good socket set (w. deep sockets) with a 12" extension, a hammer and some WD40.

1.) Remove the fairing, don't loose the washers.
2.) Remove the front belt guard (left side directly above the foot peg.
3.) Undo the three straps, the front is easily acessible, but in the back you will need the extension to avoid removing the belt tensioner.
4.) Undo the nut on the clamp holding the muffler to the header.
5.) Remove old pipe with the gentle pursuasion of a hammer or rubber mallet.
6.) Install new pipe, I used a little WD40 to get it onto the header and button everything up. When you tighten the rear straps keep in mind that as you tighten one, the other will slack so check them both. As Typeone said, go by feel.

All of this including an oil change took me about an hour.
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Smoothrod
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ill give you a tip that another member gave me. Your gonna have to loosen the rear axle so you can remove tension from the belt and remove the belt tensioner pulley. You have to do this because you cant get to both rear straps unless you do this. When putting it back on position the straps on the opposite side so that you can get to them with out having to loosen the rear axle and such. Just my 2 cents.
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Buell_892
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

thanks... i cant believe you have to loosen the rear axle just to install exhaust.. grrrr
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Sgthigg
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

YOU DONOT have to loosen the belt tension in all cases! I didnt on mine. It just depends on where you rear muffler strap bolts are installed from the factory. You might have to use an extension to get the rear one off and use it through the pully like I did. I had my spec ops on in 30 mins! I suggest removing your fairings and see if an extension will work in there. It probaly will. Heck I would try to use a universal extension before I loosed up the tension.
Good Luck

Enjoy the pipe!!
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Mike_bolts
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Stop! You don't have to jack with the rear axle or the belt tensioner. Remove the forward belt guard and then you have access to the rear straps with a 12" extension. The aftermarket pipe is shorter than stock, you will have access from the rear to adjust the straps, etc. I used a standard socket, placed the nut in it only to thread it, thereafter I changed to a deep socket to tighten it. Don't be afraid, there is nothing you can screw up!
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Buell_892
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 12:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ok, thank you for your responses!! I will not loosen the tension unless i HAVE TO FOR SURE.

I might be PM'ing someone if i cant figure it out, but i have a service manual, so it shouldnt be too tough
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Typeone
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 12:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

woah, loosen the rear axle? a simple extension with wobble is probably what i used to get the stock pipe and strap config off. took like 20min. i bet the hardest part of a pipe swap is getting it off/on the header. sometimes it takes coaxing and its sorta awkward to push up getting the new one on. little wiggle and your good. WD40 is a good tip.

i forgot about that strap tip but Odie would probably have mentioned to you as well, leave those two rear ones installed on the opposite side, makes it WAY easier the next time you need to fool with them.
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Smoothrod
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Maybe I'm a dumb ass but I do allot of wrenching on my V-rod and my XB9S, and a swivel socket was a no go. I could not loosen MINE }without taking the belt tensioner off. I could not put a socket of any kind on the strap nut due to the position of the strap. Again this might be just mine yours may line up perfect so you can get the swivel socket on it. Either way its not a difficult job.

(Message edited by smoothrod on January 30, 2006)
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Rich
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I use a little silicone on the inlet. Lubes it for installation, and seals it. I believe some of the "popping on decel" you hear about can be eliminated this way.
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Tim_g
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 10:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Picked up install tips for my Odie pipe off of the Drummer site. he he he. Had to take the tensioner off to get at my straps. The pipe Odie made for me looks stock down to the tip. It is not shorter. 20 turns on the rear axle does it if you have to go that route.
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Dana P.
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 10:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I didn't pull the rear wheel off of either one of my XB's in my garage. And I've done it multiple times.
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Dtx
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My brake pedal was somewhat in the way of my extension socket when I was loosing my stock exhaust to take off. If the brake pedal IS in the way, just take out the cotter pin on the back side of it and it allowed the brake pedal to move out of the way, giving you a direct line to the nuts on the straps.
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Chizzler
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Can you just cut off the stock straps so you don't have to remove the tensioner? I would think a dremel or cutoff wheel would make short work of them. the new pipes come with straps, no? I'm curious as I'm awaiting my D&D pipe in the next week or so.
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Dana P.
Posted on Monday, January 30, 2006 - 11:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Smoothrod,take off the primary pulley guard then try the method you may have to take the bolt that hold your rear brake lever off but you should be right there.
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Smoothrod
Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2006 - 05:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Dana I moved my straps to the other side so I can have all access all the time. I will no longer have to remove any of that stuff to get my exhaust off. Thanks though
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M1combat
Posted on Tuesday, January 31, 2006 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've never had to remove the tensioner...

A 3" extension, a wobbly and a seven stinks...
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