| Author | Message | ||
     Mr_cuell |
I have been fiddling with my fairings and my wife came out into the garage and asked "Are you going to race that thing?" What I thought was a closed door suddenly showed some light. Her question inferred there was a chance I was going to race! That slip was all I needed - I raced an SV when they first came out, and there quickly developed a list of standard mods to race - clip ons, fairings, emulators, penske rear, M4. It was pretty straightforward for SS. Is there an emerging consensus on "must have" mods for racing an XB? Will a catch can suffice or do I have to have a belly pan? I only messed with gearing on the SV for Daytona - and I am only going to race the XB at Summit, is a chain conversion imperative if I can work with the stock gearing? Has any one had a temp gauge added for peace of mind? I am doing ECM/Filter/Can - is coating the pipes productive in HP? Dyno charts to prove it? I have gone from looking for best street pipe to best race pipe - Which one is a top end monster ( and oh crap lets not have another 50 bajillion best pipe thread  Any peculiarities to the XB's that are required mods to pass tech? I am going to stick with stock suspension, but is there some conventional wisdom on standard racing mods from Traxxion Dynamics or others? What weaknesses show up in the bike at race pace? Steering damper? | ||
| Dtx |
The Jardine and Buell Race pipes have top end emphases. | ||
| Vaneo1 |
drummer...DRUMMER.. did I say drummer?? haha kidding I dont even own a drummer go with the Buell race pipe and race ecm. Im having mine installed this friday and the tech is going to do a before and after on the dyno for me  | ||
| Tattdbueller |
Vaneo, post the results or send me a PM...just curious. | ||
| M1combat |
Gearing... You can get different sized front sprockets from HBM. Pipe... My Drummer beats my Force above 4600 and below 3200. Special parts... I think you'll need a catch pan from Henry Duga. You can get one through an HD dealer. Use a K&N oil filter... It has a drilled nut on the bottom of it for safety wire. Race pace... I hear the bike needs a good deal more front preload than most (or better yet, stronger springs), but maybe not if you are a light person. From what I can tell most racers use a steering damper set very low. | ||
| Vaneo1 |
Ill post a threat Tattd. BTW I love how the race ecm cam with a piece of paper saying how its illegal for street use and especially to you bastards in California you better not or else your going to upset the sensitve emission balance of the state blah blah blah oh it also says how its illegal to sale.  Im a gangster | ||
| Buelldyno_guy |
Contact one of the dealer race teams close to where you live. There are several mods that are necessary for competitive racing. On the other hand if all you want is a Track Bike there are fewer required. If you are serious and are a sanctioned rider contact Henry Duga at Buell and ask for some directions. I also don't want to start a Exhaust war here, but a good slip on will be great for a track bike. But It cannot make the type of power over the entire racing RPM range you will need. ... Terry | ||
| Typeone |
...and don't forget to make sure that crank nut is torqued to the new spec  see the thread 'Kaboom!' if you don't get the sarcasm but i'm kinda serious that it would be something i'd make sure of before wringing her neck out on the track over and over. | ||
| Diablobrian |
oops, I re-read the original and most of this is off topic, but may help a newbie that is afraid to ask, So I'll leave it. Ummmm. Lets see. for a shoestring privateer. minimal list, except the generator and tire warmers If you have friends that race some of these items can be shared. But don't leave something critical to your weekend up to even your best friend. safety wire all oil fittings, the oil drain bolts, and the oil fill cap. You will need a steering dampner in most racing associations. a belly pan as stated before. Exhaust flange bolts and any place the pipe is not welded together needs to be safety wired. Brake caliper bolts and your axles need to be safety wired. turn signals and mirrors removed. tail and head light disconnected and taped over or removed. I reccomend safety wiring your grips so they don't slip. (it happens) tape over your wheel wieghts. fresh fluids and good tires are a given I hope. leathers must be a full suit, some associations allow full circumfrance zippered two pieces, but I don't reccomend it. You should also wear wicking articles of clothing under the leathers. Long sleeve is preffered so your suit doesn't stick to your arms when taking it off and putting it on when it's hot. Gloves need to be gauntlet type with some means of securing around wrist. velcro, strap, etc. Boots need to be properly engineered race type boot. Helmet needs to be certified in accordance with association guidelines. Snell is accepted in most. DOT is not usually enough, and with a date code within the sanctioning bodies limits. No 6 year old lids on the track. You need to get your racing liscense as well. Most assosiations offer a weekend "track school" to get the liscense. Teaches You track etiquette, safety, and what all those flags mean. Usually makes you faster too. Tire warmers whil;e not a must are seriously advisable. waiting for your tires to "come on" in a race sucks when the other guys are leaving you behind. Borrow a set once, you'll be hooked. A friend to help you in the pits/drive you home and a tow vehicle with trailer. You will be a basket case at the end of your first track day, even if you don't tip over. You will not want to return the bike to street trim and ride home. Tools to be carried in said tow vehicle. A sun shade. 10x10' works well. camp chairs. there is NO place to sit at the track and it can get hot sitting in the car. race stands. hard to change tires and use tire warmers without them. spare fuel. you don't want to use race fuel in your bike unless you don't mind killing your O2 sensor in the first few minutes. race fuel is mostly leaded, and higher octane does not always mean higher performance. (see the KV) Don't forget to bring some for the generator too. Spare oil and a filter Spare brake pads. trust me no vendor at the track will have them. Been there done that. Spare brake, clutch, and shift levers. Spare plugs. teflon tape, duct tape, silicoe sealant, safety wire and pliers. don't leave home without them. Axle sliders, frame pucks, and spares of each. generator. to power tire warmers A portable radio. It can be hard to hear the speakers at the track when there are unmuffled race machines near you. It'll probably cost at least $1000 for the first race weekend. Liscense, entry, tires, fuel, food, etc. assuming there are no mechanical problems. Don't be surprised I'm sure there is more I've missed and/or forgotten. This list should be a starting point. (Message edited by diablobrian on January 12, 2006) | ||
| Sweatmark |
I'm no racer, but initial enthusiam about my XB pushed me to "commission" work on Showa forks by GP Suspension (http://www.gpsuspension.com/) and buy a Penske shock based on this report: http://www.roadracinghelp.com/TechArticle/January/Main.htm Please note (I should have!) the Penske won't fit on the XB without removal or hack of the cooling fan. | ||
| Blake |
Check out Skully's (Keith's) thread in the Storm Front topic. He races his XB9S and has done some very nice preparation work, documenting much of it in that thread. The thread is entitled "From Cruiser to Sport Bike..." Definitely retorque that pinion shaft (crankshaft end at drive sprocket) nut! | ||
| Vonsliek |
holy crap! diablo .. thanks for the read .. i am doing a whole season of track schools & days up in calgary this summer & they don't mention a 10th of what u do!! thanks again. | ||
| Diablobrian |
Hey, I try to help where I can. I wish you the best of luck in the coming season Vonsliek. If you have any questions don't be afraid to ask!  | ||
| Charlieboy6649 |
I too am benefiting from this thread as I have trackdays coming up and would like to eventually hit the track. This is that dumb question you said not to be afraid to ask. Like M1 said the K&N comes with a nut to safety wire. How do you safety wire those items not having said nut/holes? Do you drill them to make said hole? An example is the oil fittings. Cant drill them. Do you just attach something to the nut that could be safety wired? | ||
| Charlieboy6649 |
I've only seen aircraft wired where a hole for said purpose exists... | ||
| Slaughter |
You have to check with your race organization, they ALL have slightly different requirements. Most let you use silicone rubber on the oil fittings to safety them so you don't have to wire your oil and brake lines. Axles AND axle nuts including pinch bolts You can use a hose clamp around the oil filter body and safety wire it that way so it can't unscrew. One other thing... NEVER go out without letting the bike warm up fully in cold weather! You'll develop and hold higher oil pressures than on the same bike for the street and I've seen filter cans blow apart in colder months. Bellypans are required in EVERY race organization I'm familiar with. Even if not, be a good citizen and put one on. If you have your race license number and a dealer who will order for you, you can buy parts stamped "RACE ONLY" from Buell/Duga at decent prices. These are usually test parts or blems in like new condition. Call Max at Traxxion. Get the springs for your weight and if you can afford it, have the forks re-valved. Sooner or later, you'll want a better rear shock (Penske OR Ohlins - Works is iffy) | ||
| Diablobrian |
you either drill a hole, where allowed you can use a tabbed washer with safety wire holes, or in the case of oil filters, just put a hose clamp around it and wire it to another bolt or stationary object. also remember to safety wire properly. It must be wired in such a way that the wire is actually exerting force on the fastener in a tightening direction. a safety wire drilling jig (hold bolts still and has a bushing where the drill goes through) will save you money on drill bits if you don't have a drill press or mill available. buy 1/16th drill bits by the dozen. You will break a lot of them. center punch before drilling each one. unless you really have to remove fasteners and mount in vise to drill them. It will save you a lot of damage to your bike. Be very careful with the remnants of wire when you finish each pair of bolts. It can easily ruin a new tire. Be SURE they find their way to the trash can. Some things I forgot earlier. safety wire rear sprocket bolts, and rear brake rotor carrier bolts. remove, or safety wire kickstand in up position (depending on organization) before going to tech inspection. remove or disable (unplug)horn. Put a piece of duct tape over your speedo before going out. You don't need it and it will just distract you when you should be looking for brake markers at the end of the front straight. | ||
| Diablobrian |
oil fittings can be drilled through a corner of the bolt. It takes a little practice, but it is pretty easily doable. | ||
| Diablobrian |
Oh yeah, a properly dialed in suspension is probably the most beneficial thing a new racer can have. It inspires confidence. I highly reccomend GMD computrac in particular. they have worked hard to come up with some "ideal numbers" for our bikes and it works. | ||
| Buellgirlie |
this is a great thread. i'm starting to get my thoughts and parts together to at least do more trackdays and perhaps part of a racing season this year. thanks for sharing! i'll keep checking this for more info. D | ||
| Surveyor |
Apart from all the stuff recommended by the others in this excellent thread I have found that Duct tape and cable ties (zip ties?) are the things we use most often. It's amazing what you can repair after an "off" if you have plenty of both. Also don't forget your transponder and charger. (Message edited by surveyor on January 13, 2006) | ||
| Blake |
Fro track days, you don't need to safety wire so thoroughly. Heck for race days in CMRA you don't need to safety wire so thoroughly. Sure doesn't hurt though. I think CMRA now after adopting the WERA based rulebook is requiring the oil fill, drain, filter, the brake calipers, axles, the tranny drain, that's about it. Before that, my Cyclone passed tech more than once with just the oil orifices and filter wired. I would put a dab of red RTV against the axle and caliper fasteners after tightening them. Safety wiring is kinda satisfying though once you get the hang of it and get it done. Makes yer bike look all go-fast and tricked out kinda. It makes for time well spent learning the intricacies of your bike too. | ||
| Diablobrian |
Yeah, track days are different from full on race preps, that should be made very clear. My above List(s) pertain mostly to racing, but are not a bad thing to do if you want to get serious at the track. Tech will never fail you for an over-prepared bike. Some inspectors will buy the silicone, some won't, sucks to get turned around at tech. Your choice. There was a pic on the other link of hose clamps being used on the compression fitting at the cooler. this is a very slick trick, if they buy it. Safety wire, and safety wire holes can decrease the re-sale value of your bike. Be aware of this before you drill the first hole. sure, it was only ridden to church on sundays by my grandmother...I swear.. | ||
| Trojan |
In my opinion, you should concentrate on making the most of the XB's handling abilities in the first instance. Top end power can come later but the handling is where you will make up most ground on the other bikes. Traxxion Dynamics now offer their AK-20 full fork cartridge replacements that fit the stock XB forks and will transform the handling! They are not cheap but are worth the money. We will be using these on our XB12 race bike this season (although we aren't running Buell forks).  An aftermarket rear shock is a MUST, so make sure you get one with adjustable ride height, as you will need to raise the rear of the bike to get it turning in faster. Unless you are very confident of your setup abilities (or have someone helping you who is ) it is probably better to go for a 2 way adjustable shock (compression/rebound) rather than the more complicated 3 way adjustable (high/low speed compression & rebound). The more adjustment you have the easier it is to get it wrong  You will also save a fair wedge of cash with the slightly lower spec shock. Chain drive will enable you to gear your bike exactly how you want it, rather than being stuck with the factory gearing, which you will probbably find overgeared. You may find the front brake overheats in race use. This is the subject of a whole other thread, but if you want to stick with the stock ZTL brake/wheel there are ways to lessen this. Try fitting a wave pattern front rotor from Braking. These cool better (and are lighter) and seem to resist warping better than the stock disc. Use the Braking sintered race pads with this disc. Change the brake fluid to either Dot 5.1 or something like Castrol Super Dot 4. We run twin front discs on our race bike (R1 front end), and there are conversion kits available that you can use on your stock forks to do this if you wanted to. Get out there and enjoy it ! | ||
| Mr_cuell |
Its funny, I was reading all of this, and I was thinking - doh! heres one thing everyone forgot - Waterwetter! but then I remembered . . . | ||
| Buellrcr |
do the forks and get a rear shock. penske from ctr will set them up for about 1500 for both. then do a chain conversion | ||
| Chadhargis |
Interesting about the brake. I thought the ZTL brake was supposed to outperform conventional brakes? Is it just a weight saving thing? | ||
| M1combat |
"out-perform" is a very nebulous term . It doesn't have as much outright stopping power, but outright "slowing down power" is much more a function of wheelbase/cg height than it is of the braking systems ability to clamp the rotor. I assure you that the ZTL has enough power to face plant you at whatever speed you would like to grab too much brake. The main benefit to the ZTL setup is reduction of un-sprung mass. That is MUCH more important than "extra" stopping power IMO . You can only stop so fast, and that distance is mostly defined by geometry once you have "enough" power. Granted, the ZTL setup is somewhat known for heating up on a racetrack if you leave it in stock trim. Throw on a good set of pads and it's good for race pace. Throw in another 40HP and THEN you need to make a couple modifications. Do some searching and you'll literally find hundreds of posts (most in a thread about 5-700 posts long) that discuss this issue at length. A lot of length . | ||
| Chadhargis |
I've looked at the petal type rotor. Very nice looking setup. Do they really cool that much better? | ||
| Diablobrian |
I very specifically did not recommend performance mods, other than chassis set-up, for the beginning racer. The return on investment is not there at that point. K&N, (in some classes stock air box is a must) race ECM, and slip on are the maximum mods I'd worry about. Leave the internals alone until your skill level warrants it. |
