| Author | Message | ||
     Aussie_buell |
something thats bugs me is the free play (or too much)free play in the throttle. Has anyone got any tips or how they set the throttle with no free play and still have it return properly at full lock, or is there a reason for the free play. | ||
| Drift |
Free play is for safety to make sure that when you need to let go you have plenty of off margin. I run mine pretty tight myself. Just make sure that it goes all the way shut when you adjust it so that it does not affect you idle. | ||
| Aussie_buell |
drift does your's return by itself on full lock? (Message edited by aussie_buell on November 08, 2005) | ||
| Black_sunshine |
Aussie.....I think its either tight without it returning or with free play. I ran mine tight for the first 1Ok miles. When I had the 10k service SMHD/Buell adjusted it so it had play and return. Didn't like it at first but I am use to it now. It binded at full lock before. I thought something was adjusted wrong when I got it back form service but they explained to me why it is that way. | ||
| Aussie_buell |
same here black sunshine, buell service always adjust mine too so i guess i should just get used to it and put up. | ||
| Drift |
Mine returns fine, but I have about 1/16 of play (they recommend more). When you turn your bars it affects the cable length inside the housing. So you need "some play". | ||
| Henrik |
It's a fine balance of adjustment between the throttle cable and the return cable. I usually loosen the return cable a bit and then adjust the throttle cable to have the least amount of play possible while not affecting idle when turning the bars from lock to lock. I then slowly adjust (tighten) the return cable until the throttle starts to bind and then back off until the throttle snaps back with a good solid "smack." Finally I test the bar movement lock to lock again. That still leaves a bit of play in the throttle, but not so much that it bothers me. Henrik | ||
| Typeone |
i've gone round and round on this adjustment too. never had this much difficulty with a bikes throttle before. it just feels sloppy to me on the Buell, like spongy. still chalking it up to my inability but i've adjusted perfectly fine on other bikes. i'll try your method, Henrik. thanks! | ||
| Henrik |
Re-reading my post (should've done so when I wrote it ...) there is one glaring error: There is no real "stop" when adjusting the throttle cable. I.e. if you loosen the return cable, you can tighten the throttle cable. If you keep going like that, you'll have dialed all the cable length out of the throttle cable without accomplishing anything ...  So let me modify: - start by adjusting the cables so there is approximately the same amount of adjustment thread on both sides, and the throttle grip can be turned from fully closed to fully open (1/4 turn I believe). The cables should be loosely adjusted, but tight enough that rolling on the throttle barrel pulls the throttle cable. - then adjust the return cable as described above. Slowly adjust (tighten) the return cable until the throttle starts to bind and then back off until the throttle snaps back with a good solid "smack." Balance between the 2 cables is the key. Keep in mind that it is possible to "change" the adjustment when you tighten up the lock nuts - try your best to avoid that. - the final check of turning the bars from lock to lock with the bike important. Make sure that the throttle still snaps back at both extremes. Then start the bike and make sure the idle does not change at either extreme. You do not want the bike to roll on the throttle by itself while you're doing tight parking lot turns. Hope this helps ... and clears things up. Sorry. Henrik (who needs to finish his coffee before posting in the morning) (Message edited by Henrik on November 08, 2005) | ||
| Rocketman |
To simplify. No movement of the bars should affect throttle cables. What you adjust is the throttle cables to suit their intended action and use. One should NEVER 'dial' in a throttle cable to compensate for throttle cable movement caused by handlebar movement. The simple answer is route the throttle cable correctly in the first instance. Rocket | ||
| Hkwan |
So how much play are you guys expericing? I have just a tiny bit over 1/4" play on the throttle. The 1/4" is the travel length on the hand grip. Is that too much? | ||
| Aussie_buell |
thanks to every one so far for the feed back. I seem to be on the money with my adjustment, and have about 2 or 3mm (1/8) free play, i will try and narrow that a little more. I just asked the question because it was frustrating me, looks like quite a few others have either gone down this road or are frustrated with it too. Thanks again | ||
| Henrik |
One should NEVER 'dial' in a throttle cable to compensate for throttle cable movement caused by handlebar movement. I agree, however, sometimes you're stuck with what you've got. And better to have checked and remedied than doing a parking lot dump later on. I don't have a specific measure for acceptable play, but 1/4" sounds like a lot. Keep in mind though, that in addition to some stretching of the cables, compression of the cable sheath and slack in the throttle mechanism at the carbs/injector body, the throttle barrel itself is a rather loose fit around the bars and in the throttle side switch housing. So the combined (stacked) variance will give you some slack no matter what. Henrik | ||
| Rocketman |
I make that comment through experience Henrik, and from my S1W. No car park dumping but as this thread demonstrates, there can be 'difficulties' with these throttles. No matter what I ride I like no free play in the twist. The slack you speak of is enough if it's present at all. My advice remains the same but if as you say sometimes you're stuck with what you've got, then my further advice would be to buy a good quality new throttle cable and start again. I'm just waiting on a British company to start production of a quick action throttle - then I'll buy it based on other quality stuff they manufacture. Be warned and be safe! Rocket | ||
| Tank_bueller |
I'm just waiting on a British company to start production of a quick action throttle Or a progressive action throttle, so at low/cruise throttle it will still be manageable. But, open it just a little more, and get alot more! That would be Badazz. my $.02 | ||
| Henrik |
I make that comment through experience Henrik Me too  I know what you mean and agree completely. Neither throttle nor brakes is equipment you want working so-so. I had exactly this problem on my SV650 when it was stock. They'd just packed everything so tight from the factory, that there was nowhere to route the cables for unaffected throttle action. After I switched to clip-ons I obviously had plenty of cable length to play with and now it's honky dory. With quick action throttle, do you mean a shorter throw? I have a 1/5 (approx.) turn insert on the SV, and while it makes it easier to get on the throttle, I also find it a bit harder time modulating the throttle for smooth roll-ons in turns and such. You may be able to use a different brand throttle barrel and get the same effect. For the SV, the Yamaha R6 throttle barrel gets you a 1/5 turn. Tank; I'm thinking a progressive throttle might be even more difficult to modulate, since you don't know where in throttle position you'll need to be to go smoothly through a turn. If the "effect" of a certain amount of movement were to change, that could be tricky. Henrik |
