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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through September 15, 2005 » Rear Axle Issues on a 12r « Previous Next »

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Frausty_void
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 01:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

This can't be happening,
not now, not tonight..

So, I'm take the tires off the Bolt, and I go to loosen the rear and the axles froze. Hmmm I used anti-seize, WTF?! So I break out the 2' breaker bar (handy friend) voila, axle breaks free (or so I thought). So I continue loosening the axle and it seizes up again (pretty typical going through wheel bearings turn it a half a turn. and I notice the rotor is against the Caliper mount (can't be good). So I back it off and notice, great rotors bent.. and hey lookie there, corrosion on the axle, right at the wheel bearing.

Any ideas on how to get this sucker loose? I removed the caliper mount, and shot it up with some wd-40, and even used turbine oil still no go. Any help?

Ryan
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Sparky
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 02:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I noticed on my 9R there's anti-seize the whole length of the axle. Is yours the same?
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Frausty_void
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 02:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

yeah got the service manual, and put anti-seize the full length, including the barreled ends, (which is the part now hosing it up).

Any others?!
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Wyckedflesh
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

take a ratchet tiedown and run it through the wheel and around the swingarm. Tighten it down. Now when you spin the axle it will not push the swing arm apart and allow the axle to push itself thru.

Remember, wheel bearings build up heat as they spin. This heat can and often does melt the antiseize out from under the bearing. Try and find the silver antiseize rather then the copper, it resists the heat more.
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Frausty12r
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 11:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks wickedflesh, yeah I've got the high temp permatex silver (graphite) antiseize, it's the only thing I use. Had run-ins before with the copper too.

Never thought about the ratchet strap, also got a little insurance, some PbBlaster penetrating lube, will let you know how it works out.

*JOY*
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Frausty12r
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 11:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

*returns with axle in hand*

Wickedflesh,

Thanks you SIR for your suggestion, took me two tries (didn't have it tight enough the first time) but I was able to get the axle out of the left side, without a hitch.. the right side, well thats another story.. did I mention 2ft breaker bar? had to run that through the axle hole and tap the axle out the other side. But my rear wheel is now off... and possibly in need of a new rotor. *shrug* We'll see. Any good ways to get the oxidation of the axle, without damaging the tolerance? Polish work?

Thanks again man, life saver!
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2k4xb12
Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2005 - 06:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The tie-down idea is a good one. I've never had issues with my rear axle, but last week I had to use the exact same technique to remove the front axle. The forks wanted to spread apart.

Steve.
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