| Author | Message | ||
     Cataract2 |
I'm trying to get my read tire off. The sucker won't budge. I've removed the pinch fastener and all. I used anti seize on it last time I did a tire change. WTF? Something I should add which is a theory. I just got done riding maybe an hour ago. The swingarm is still warm. Is it possible that the metal is expanded enough to cause the axle to not be able to loosen? Please be that.... (Message edited by cataract2 on July 31, 2005) | ||
| Metalstorm |
I'm no engineer but that sounds possible. Let her cool down & try it again. Don't force it. Report back. I can't offer any advice but I can help keep this thread alive till the answers come. | ||
| Whodom |
If you find out it's still stuck after it's cool, I'd suggest trying a can of "PB Blaster" on it. It's something like Liquid Wrench but more potent; comes in a spray can. I've had good results using this on frozen fasteners and I've heard from others that it works miracles (like freeing frozen nuts on steam locomotives that have been sitting in city parks for ~50 years). | ||
| Metalstorm |
A friend of mine that runs an asphalt plant swears by PB Blaster. He uses it on all the plant machinery so it must be good stuff. | ||
| Frausty12r |
PB Blaster is the best penetrating lubricant, spray it on, let it sit for about 15 minutes... come back.. and it should be free'd up. if this doesn't work, I'd suggest getting a hand impact wrench, it's gotta 1/2" drive on it.. it fits in the palm of your hand. Put the socket on it, then put the axle removal lug in it.. and smack it a good time with a hammer. the impact of the hammer causes the internal shaft of the impact wrench to turn an 1/8th of a turn and also helps jar loose whatever has seized. (I'd do this as a last resort, but it's way safer than a pneumatic impact wrench) | ||
| Blake |
Where specifically did you apply the anti-seize and what brand/type was it? | ||
| Cataract2 |
I applied the anti seize in the areas that the book told me to along with on the bearings to prevent them from seizing again. Basically, both ends of the axle and bearing areas. I've let it cool again, going to give it another go. Put a fan on it and all. I used Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant. I just tried again. No go. Well, I have PB Blaster and I just sprayed it on the axle. Count down to 15 minutes. (Message edited by cataract2 on July 31, 2005) | ||
| Hogs |
Hey All, This PB Blaster stuff where can one get it, ???/ | ||
| Frausty12r |
Hogs, Your local autoparts store Advance/Autozone/Napa should have it.. it's with the carb cleaner/aerosol cleaners/solvents... Cataract2 I've removed the axle on my 12r three times (bad run in with road debris needing two new tires =/) and both times, I put the same brand as you on the threads, and barreled areas of the axle.. never had a problem getting it off. What I'm wonder is if you over torqued the pinch bolts.. which could have caused the swingarm to bite into the axle.. the only solution I can see is either using the hand impact wrench, or taking it to a dealer. if they break the axle it's on them  | ||
| Cataract2 |
Would you guys recommend a breaker bar for this maybe? I'm using a big arse wrench right now. | ||
| Cataract2 |
It's possible Frausty. I wonder if my torque wrench is off... Guess I'll be using the beam one from now on. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Another problem is I'm going on a trip in a week. I need this bike then and can't afford for it to be down waiting on a swingarm and axle. Sigh... #@$$^!&@%#& | ||
| Cataract2 |
Alright, I just went out and picked up a breaker bar. I'm going to give it another go. Wish me luck. I guess if all else fails I'll be pulling out the impact wrench. If that doesn't work, into the dealer it goes tomorrow. | ||
| Cataract2 |
I COME TO REPORT SUCCESS!!!!!! Breaker bar did it. Came loose real easy!!!! Oh yeah!!! Finally!!! Thank you God!!! Thank you everyone!!! I'm cracking open a beer before I go on. (Message edited by cataract2 on July 31, 2005) | ||
| Frausty12r |
Congrats, yes breaker bars are the epitome of HELP ME PLEASE!! tools.. keep it.. never know when you'll need it again and get a good torque wrench, i.e. craftsman or snap-on/bluepoint. They're on the low end of tolerances like +/- 2% overall torque. (Which is good especially when you're up in the 60-80 ft/lb range.. | ||
| Cataract2 |
I have a Craftsman. Just haven't had it torque checked in some time. Think I'll do that. I have the Craftsmen beam type also. Will be using that to put the tire back on until I get my click on redone. BTW, question. Is it normal when you loosening the tire for it to move to the right (towards you) a bit. Then for it to stop and loosening to become a bit harder until it slides off the axle? I ask this because this is the 2nd time I've done this and it did it both time. Scares the hell out of my making me think it's going to snap the swingarm. (Message edited by cataract2 on July 31, 2005) | ||
| Frausty12r |
Yeah it happens to me, and I think it happens because theres no spacer between the wheel bearings and the right side of the swingarm (when looking from rear to front of the bike). This is to allow the wheel to kick forward (under belt tension) and the wheel bearings are of tight tolerance (almost 0 clearance) to the axle. Whats happening is the bearings are still contacting the axle, and until you loosen the axle enough to break that contact it's dragging the wheel in the direction the axles moving (towards you) All three times I've removed mine.. it's done it. (I'm hoping this is ok) | ||
| Cataract2 |
Also, has the threaded part on your axle ever got stuck trying to go through the right side bearing? I had to take a long rod and tap the axle out of the wheel because of that. BTW, rear wheel off. Everything looks good so far for my trip. I got the idler wheel off so there was no tension on the belt during my run with this. (Message edited by cataract2 on July 31, 2005) | ||
| Frausty12r |
NOPE, Seems like you're letting the wheel weight rest on the threaded end of the axle. Always use a free hand to help support the wheel when you're removing the axle. I've thought seriously about using some wood to support the wheel, but it's just as easy to keep a hand on it when pulling the axle free of the rim/swingarm. Also remember to use a decent amount of anti seize when reinstalling it. Saves you some headache next time around. | ||
| Cataract2 |
That was the only area I didn't use anti seize, in hind sight. Whoops.... I plan to cover the axle in all spots touching metal this time. Next time I remove the wheel. That breaker bar will be right next to me. | ||
| Koz5150 |
When all else fails grab a bigger tool! My friend had to press a pully onto a power steering pump this weekend. After an hour of wrestling with the part he brought it to my "Garagemahall" of tools. We did the job in 5 minutes. We drank beer for an hour and told his wife the job was coming along slowly.... | ||
| Road_thing |
"Garagemahall" I love it!  rt | ||
| Cataract2 |
If all else fails. Grab a 24" breaker bar and make that SOB comply! Wheel off and tomorrow I'm doing the front wheel. (Which is a hell of a lot easier.) | ||
| Daves |
Remember the threads are backwards on the front. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Thanks for the reminder Dave. |
