| Author | Message | ||
     Fullpower |
XB uses the same part number 26318-88A oil pump drive gear as the earlier generation sportster/Buell motors. one to keep an eye on. | ||
| Midknyte |
Was that problematic in those motors? Please explain eh? | ||
| Whodom |
It will be interesting to see if any XB's exhibit this problem. I don't know that anyone has ever definitively diagnosed the root cause of the "failed oil pump drive gear" problem. One post I saw here made a pretty convincing argument that the problem is improper meshing of the gears caused by the position of the oil pump (oil pump gear too low relative to crankshaft gear). This Badwebber machined some material off of the mating face of his oil pump so that the gears seem to mesh properly now and it seems to have provided a long-term cure for the problem. If it turns out this is a correct diagnosis (which would mean the engine case and/or the pump housing was not machined correctly on some engines) it may have been corrected on the XB's and the gear won't be a problem. My 2000 S3 has about 10,500 miles on it so I will be dropping my oil pump to check the gears very soon. | ||
| Whodom |
Midknyte: Some of the tubers have had the oil pump drive gear on the crank shaft fail at around ~20,000 miles or so. It can result in shrapnel floating around in your engine followed by complete loss of oil pressure. As far as I know, no XB has had this problem. | ||
| Fullpower |
dont mean one should panic, just something to keep an eye on, maybe inspect it after 30,000 miles or so. finally shattered the drive gear on 1998 sportster, after a bunch of high rpm abuse. when the gear fails, it fills the pump up with shrapnel, pump seizes, loss of oil pressure. again not an immediate PANIC situation, just a part that may want to be inspected every few years or so.noticed it is the same part number as the XB. zippers was making a silicon bronze replacement gear for a while, not sure if they still stock one. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I think it was Repicheep that suggested checking it every oil change. It's not hard to drop the oil-pump to check the drive gear and gaskets are cheap, even at the dealer. 25,000 miles on my 00 M2 and it seems OK... ...so far | ||
| Reepicheep |
Probably not every change, more like every 8k miles until you see if you have the problem. If you make it to 16k with no obvious wear, you can probably stop checking. I think it is an alignment problem, I have been watching, asking, and listening to see if it continues to the XB platform. I expect it's fixed. The only "fly in the ointment" was xb9rski's engine failure (I think that's his handle). He had some sort of "broken oil pump" problem, the tech told him that he "fixed it" in an afternoon, and that he can ride it away. Shortly later the engine grenaded. Could be anything though, not enough information. | ||
| Whodom |
Reepicheep, Can you refresh me on the procedure for dropping the pump or point me to the thread? IIRC, the only part required is a new gasket? Thanks. | ||
| Reepicheep |
New oil pump gasket, and a little bit of teflon tape (I just used the plumbing tape, seemed to work well). You also need a few cable ties to put stuff "back". Basically, you just drain the oil (one way or another) then cut a few cable ties so you can get some wiring out of the way. From there, you disconnect the two (I think, going from memory) oil pump lines. I think I might even have only removed one, and left the other attached. Then remove two allen cap screws that actually bolt the pump to the engine case, and the pump will drop right out. Then use a dental mirror and a flashlight and start crawling, or in my case I just grabbed the Nikon Coolpix 990 digital camera (killer macro mode) and inspected the drive gear through the hole where the oil pump shaft goes. Here is the actual shot I took at that moment when I first dropped it...  It's awkward, but as you see, you get a pretty good view. As stated by others, inspect both sides of the gear. I just turned the engine over with the starter a few half turns and reinspected. One side of the gear looked OK, 180 degrees on the other side was badly worn. Reassembly is straightforward, getting the old caked on gasket is the biggest headache, and not nearly as bad as a rocker box or primary cover. Not a huge deal. Use a new oil pump gasket, new teflon tape for the oil line fittings, loktite blue, use factory torque specs, and cable tie the wires back something likt you found them. I doubt the whole job would take more then a liesurely 45 minutes, and a good mechanic in a hurry could likely knock it out in 20 or less. (Message edited by reepicheep on June 15, 2005) (Message edited by reepicheep on June 15, 2005) | ||
| Bud |
i have to many being from very bad @ 5000 mi to noproblem @ 22ooo mi, and it depens how you drive your bike and how good your crank is in line the ware seems to be more one on side off the gear than the other | ||
| Dale |
How do you get 20,000 miles from a motor? | ||
| Shotgun |
How do you get 20,000 miles from a motor? Change the oil and filter every 2500 miles. Use good oil. | ||
| Spiderman |
It took over 40k before my gear failed in my tuber. And that is after COUNTLESS dyno tunings, wheelies, burnouts, battletraxs, 140+MPH runs, over 100 passes at the dragstrip and two motor rebuilds. | ||
| Spatten1 |
1) Reep, I always wondered what that picture was when it was under your name in the posts. Thanks for the info. 2) Spiderman, do you lose your engine when the gear goes, or do you get some kind of warning before oil starvation causes harm? | ||
| Banditx |
@Reepicheep Is these picture from your XB or Cyclone ? | ||
| Tpehak |
https://youtu.be/xeEcCfxs-ns |
