| Author | Message | ||
     Thin |
I replaced my 03 9s with a 04 12R. The question or say problem is this, My bike is very cold natured even in the summer time. The dealer told me this was normal for the 12? It still coughs and sputters after I warm it up on the stand for a couple minutes. After I get out of the neighborhood it's usually ok. It got a little better after the 1000 mile service. I live in Maryland so the bike didn't sit much over the winter. I would ride it any time it made it in to the mid forties. About a month ago the idle got worst. It would stall unless you held the rpms up high when it was cold. I took it to the dealer for service and they said they reset the tps. All was suppose to be good.... They didn't bother to map the ecm so, it coughed and chugged for the next ten or so minutes. The next morning it still wouldn't idle. Now a new problem popped up, the valves are pinging. I called the service manager and he said to try changing the spark plugs, I did and the old plugs were gas fouled. The next day it still didn't idle. I took it in again and they said it was fixed. The bike would now idle better but the valves were still pinging. I did some traveling on it over the holiday weekend and tried every brand of gas there is. The valves are still pinging. Then the idle problem started again once it was cold. It did smell very rich at warm idle. When I got home I pulled the spark plugs and they were completely gas fouled (black & sootie) I put in one more pair with the proper gap and it would idle better but is still is pinging. Iv'e been around motors most of my life but I don't understand this. The motor sounds like a mack truck when your in the 4 to 5 thousand rpm range under load. I thought when the valves ping the motor is either to lean and or the timing is to far advanced. My valves are pinging and plugs are getting gas fouled. My bike has about 5500 hundred miles on it. The only mods that I've performed are de snokel and a k&n air filter. I double checked to make sure the ignition wires were on the coil and the spark plug right. I'm going to call the dealer tomorrow but I wanted to see if anyone new anything? It's pretty clear that the dealer doesn't. I never had any problems with the 9. My brother is riding it now and it has over 10 thousand miles on it. | ||
| Fullpower |
you need to have your TPS reset. the person who claims to have done so is mistaken. your ECM is not "remappable" cant be done with current technology. additionally the Buell has self adjusting hydraulic tappets. the valves do not PING. whatever noise you may be hearing, it is not the valves. | ||
| Fullpower |
I live and ride in Alaska, have many thousands of miles in the saddle at temperatures between 25 and 40 degrees. the xb12 should run just fine under those conditions. i do stuff a rag into the oil cooler shroud (scoop) in cold weather. | ||
| Raceghost |
My XB9R pings and pings. At first I thought the same thing, but then I found out the hard way. The timeing chain is loose. I have to get mine retightened at every service. Its bull-poo-doo. I hate my harley dealer. my 2 cents | ||
| 12bolt |
Timing Chain? | ||
| Buell666 |
maybe he means primary chain?????????? | ||
| Joele |
We seriously need a Thunderstorm motor FAQ page with diagrams and explanations of how the this very simple motor operates. I don't think I've ever heard of valves pinging either, pinging involves the piston. Here's a simple resource that will explain: http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/ping.htm | ||
| Raceghost |
Yes, primary chain, my apologies. | ||
| Raceghost |
Just so you know, my dealer refers to the primary chain as the timing chain...go figure... | ||
| Chainsaw |
My 2¢: #1. Check that idle is set correctly #2. Reset TPS #3. Check/replace O2 sensor. FWIW: I also ride down to 20 degrees. I haven't had any cold related problems. | ||
| Thin |
Thanks for your suggestions, I wanted to clarify pinging, I guess I should of said knocking or pre ignition. When I took it back the second time they did adjust the idle. Would the tps cause the plugs to foul? I'll check on getting the tps reset again. | ||
| 12bolt |
Race: The Guy at the Dealer is a fricken idiot. DO not let him work on your bike! (Message edited by 12bolt on June 02, 2005) | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
Thin, not being a smart arse, but as a reminder, don't give the bike any gas when you start it. Also, it sounds like you have 1 of two problems possibly. Bad cylinder head temp sensor that is reading hot, or an intake seal leak. The idle not wanting to stay is what makes me lean to an intake leak. Race, after having read your rants previously, I highly suggest you locate another dealer, as in yesterday. To claim the primary chain is part of the timing is well I am not even going to go there. | ||
| Joele |
Could also be the intake temperature sensor. | ||
| Deerhunter17 |
Thin, hey hey to a fellow MD rider. I too am piloting a 12r through the streets of MD, and have endured many of your symptoms. I changed my plugs to autolite, run HD syn 3 in primary, Mobil v twin in crankcase. I found that I needed to open it up at least once a day, do NOT let it idle for more than 30 seconds, I never touch the throttle for at least 10 seconds upon start up. The bike runs better on sheetz, exxon and shell high octane fuels, doesn't like Liberty, citco, some amoco fuels. I know this is not going to be true for everyone. I was getting pretty upset with the detonation my bike was doing, and after checking the obvious, I figured it was down to carbon build up in the cylinders, verified by the plugs. An old HS buddy works at Mt. Airy cycles, recommended the autolites, says after trying all the exotics and fancy plugs, Autolites just plain ran better, not to mention can be run fouled and will burn off the carbon. SO, long story short, don't touch the throttle on start, don't let it idle very long, even if it's cold, and open it up at least once a day, I mean above 5k!, for more than a moment. Good luck, and check out the DC, MD, Northern VA Storm fronts. | ||
| Dale |
Because of the sensitivity of the sensors I think die electric silicone on connectors makes a difference. | ||
| Deerhunter17 |
oh, yeah. agree on the die electric, used on mine when I changed the plugs, also, just to make sure we are apples to apples here Thin, I have the race ecm, drilled a/b, k&n, and Drummer. it's a 04 12R, and now have 9500 K on her. | ||
| Thin |
Deerhunter I'm all for the autolite plugs. I've been using them for years in my boat racing motors. I found that the Exxon, Shell and Sunoco gas works well. It's not much on Citgo. I hear you about running the bike hard. I can't ride it with out un corking it on a regular basis. I have an appointment next week at the dealer. As soon as the problem is taken care of I'm going to do some more mods. I was up on Rt. 211 at sky line drive over the weekend. I tried to get over to summit point but didn't have enough time. | ||
| Riceless |
What # Autolites you guys running in the 12R? Thanks | ||
| Deerhunter17 |
Autolite part # 4162, come in a pack of four, had to order mine ( local small auto parts place, got 'em next day, cheaper than getting them on line though, no shipping) I think they were like $1.80 ea. | ||
| Riceless |
Thanks Deerhunter!} |
