| Author | Message | ||
     Wheelsleaning |
I vote we put a sticky somewhere on this site. It'll list all warnings of popular troubles a buell owner may have in the future. Here's a good example: I read in a thread that the clutch cable pops at around 8000 miles??? Well 4300 miles on mine and was adjusting the slack out when I noticed half of the wires connecting to the hand lever were broken off. And PERFECT timing too, because this weekend is the Motorcycle Expo at the Superdome here in New Orleans.  | ||
| Wheelsleaning |
OH, and forgot to add that my dealer does NOT have one in stock (what a surprise!) | ||
| Deerhunter17 |
Sounds like a good idea, I know most problems are posted, and I remember reading about a clutch cable breaking. When I went looking for that info, I couldn't find it. Maybe I have'nt mastered this KV thing yet. At any rate, I just purchased a new cable from Daves, I have 7200 miles on mine, and heading out on a 950 mile trip next weekend. Figured I rather change it now, just in case. | ||
| Cataract2 |
I'm just curious, are most people noticing the clutch cable problems at the point where you can see the cable on the handle part itself? | ||
| Brucelee |
I lost my clutch cable at 5000 miles. Recall time IMHO. That would make Buell very proactive in my opinion. | ||
| Wheelsleaning |
Yep. | ||
| Easyflier |
My original clutch cable still holding at 22,000+ miles. | ||
| Chainsaw |
Original clutch cable (and belt) at 16,700 miles. Could premature clutch cable failure be maintenance related? | ||
| Scitz |
I was going to ask if any of the cables that went out at around 8k miles where lubricated as part of maintenance. I've seen the cable lube tool but I have never used one, is it hard to use? | ||
| Wheelsleaning |
Well physics tells me maintenance did not help due to the fact that the wires are breaking off of the clamped tip stuck in the hand lever. | ||
| Chainsaw |
Cable should be lubed at 1k, 5k 10k and so on, according to the O.M. The little cable tool isn't terribly tough to use, though I tend to just stick the lube straw into the cable housing anyway. The tool was included on the $11 bottle of cable lube. | ||
| Chainsaw |
...wires are breaking off... Bummer! | ||
| Thansesxb9rs |
I have lubed my cable, and it looks like it is rubbing in the little housing that clamps on the bars, there are a few wires rubbed down but it is not fraying. I have 4500 miles on mine, I am going to replace the clutch cable still even though it would probably last till 10k miles. | ||
| Lonexb |
i have over 18k miles on my 12r. still have my original clutch cable and belt. | ||
| Spatten1 |
I think the lever and pivot are at a bad angle, and if the cable end does not rotate perfectly in the lever it gets a side load. Now that I'm on that thought, maybe the assembly was designed for a Japanese style multi-spring clutch that requires less pull, and in other applications the cable end rotates freely due to less pressure on it. | ||
| Static |
"maybe the assembly was designed for a Japanese style multi-spring clutch that requires less pull" Possibly true but I know from personal experience that mine broke ( at 8500 ) due to lack of lubrication. Now that I've been keeping an eye on the cable I've gotten 12k on this one, but I did pick up and extra just in case. | ||
| Tatsu |
Hmmmmmm I would add the Stator/Regulator.... that would actually be a good recall item. My bike was smoking cause the Stator was frying. Good thing it never caught on fire. OBTW... if you ever loose your stator you only have enough ride time that's left on the battery. Found out the hard way, when the batter died the whole bike just stops running. Stator out a 15,000 plus miles. Covered under warranty. | ||
| Xbolt12 |
Broke mine at about 12500. Had the '04 drive belt replaced under warranty at 12800 because almost every tooth was undermined with a crack. That said, those miles are closer to trackday kind of miles... | ||
| Wheelsleaning |
Here's another tid bit of info... I recommend ordering the TFI only if you have access to a dyno with the A/F sensor, or a lot of free time and patience.  | ||
| Deerhunter17 |
One other area I have had a problem with is the bracket under the rear seat that is welded to the frame, and allows a "slot" so to speak , for the seat mounting bracket goes into. I broke mine trying to put on the "Custom Touring Pillion". I also noticed the one under the drivers seat was mashed upward, and I had to pry it down, "Gingerly" as to not break it as well. Oh, talking about an "R" model here | ||
| Fullpower |
well. would not hurt to add a couple spare footpegs to your collection of "Parts That You May Need On A Sunday Morning When The Parts Store Is Closed" | ||
| Gowindward |
The ignition relays, the rev B version. The current part is a rev C. It's a $5.00 part that could make for a real bad day. | ||
| Wheelsleaning |
OH yeah. Footpegs, that is a good one. Gowindward: Give us some more details on this ignition relay. Such as; where is it, part#, where to get it, what's it look like? | ||
| Gowindward |
On the Firebolt there are three relays on the right hand side up front under the fair opposite the fuse block. Old P/N is 31522-00B new P/N is 31522-00C. There have been a view post on here about relays giving up the ghost. Mine burnt up while on a road trip 650 miles from home. I was lucky enough to have been parked at a dealer when the bike wouldn't start. One of the service guys came out and helped trouble shoot the problem and they had one relay on the shelf. (Thank you Nashville H-D/Buell) The worst part about the failure was there was no warning signs before the failure. From talking to another dealer the P/N change was made mid model year. It's about a $5.00 to $6.00 dollar part. I have replaced all the "B" versions on my bike and carry a spare along with some fuses. Here's a couple of old threads on the problem www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/81496.html www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/87810.html www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=32777&post=300379#POST300379 |
