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Buell Motorcycle Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through March 17, 2005 » Is their a recall on the front rotor? « Previous Next »

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Bryanb
Posted on Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 11:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My bike is vibrating pretty bad when I use the front brake. Took to the dealership in Austin, Tx. Said it is bad but not a warrented item. I was wondering if anybody knew if this is a warrented item and if anybody else has had this problem.
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M1combat
Posted on Saturday, March 12, 2005 - 11:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check the steering head torque...
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Norrisperformance
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 12:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've got the same problem. M1 told me to
check the steering head torque and I did by
the manual. It did not help. Now I've noticed
hot spots on the rotor. Shes warped and its
hard to machine hot spots off a rotor.
Guess its time for a new one. More money
I aint got, can't a brother get a break.
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Daman
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 03:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Doesnt anyone turn the rotors like they do on cars?
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Aldaytona
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 07:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Go to a good dealer, should be able to replace it under warranty (you do have stock pads that aren't worn out don't you)?
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Rsh
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check to see if the rotor is floating properly, press on either side of the rotor mounting screws with your thumbs with your hands grabbing around the tire. The rotor should float (it will have some resistance because you are pressing against a spring) when you apply pressure with your thumbs and spring back when you release your thumb pressure. If the rotor does not float freely or is sticky when doing this test you have found the majority of the vibration problem. You have to check all six mounting screws, all it takes is one that sticks or does not move at all to cause the vibration problem. The rotors floating mounting mechanism gets filled with brake dust and road grime and should be flushed/cleaned periodically.
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M1combat
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

"M1 told me to check the steering head torque and I did by the manual. It did not help. Now I've noticed
hot spots on the rotor."

So after my suggestion you decided to give up and just run it that way?

Define these "hot spots".
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Tpoppa
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 01:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hint...

When you re-tourque the steering head cap nut, the front wheel MUST be off the ground.
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Wyckedflesh
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I took a scotchbrite surface prep pad and a drill, knocked the "hot spots" off with that and checked the pads. Mine were heavily glazed so I put in a new set. Once that was done, and the headbearings were readjusted correctly (wheel in the air, and lower triple loosened from the forks) not only did the vibration go away but the hot spotting lessened. The only way you will be able to tell if your rotor is warped, is to take it OFF the wheel, and have it spun for run out or lay it flat on a smooth glass surface or other flat surface that is perfectly level. AL at American Sport Bike sells a brake rotor hone that I intend on buying for when it does hotspot, which happens, but without the vibration.
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Djkaplan
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 04:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Why does the disc need to be removed from the wheel to check for run out?
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Wyckedflesh
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Because if as RSH posted, where the rotor is sliding on the pins binds up just a hair, the runout will be off even if the rotor isn't warped.
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Norrisperformance
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey M1

"lol" Thanks for telling me about head bearing adjust. It seems from reading here, that has been a big issue. I have not took the time to replace the
pads. They are very glazed, 3000 miles on the
bike. I been busy with the fuel being to lean.
Put the race ecm on it, and took it to the dyno, afv was over 16.
Just installed a TFI and going back to the dyno Wednesday. And yes I'm lazy.
Got the bike used four weeks ago. My first twin,
all my bikes before have been inline fours.
Only had time to put 500 miles on it, but so
far I love the bike.

Hot spots, .25 Dia. spots, blue from heat.
When this happens, the metal hardens on those spots. Just like heat treating.
rotor
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Djkaplan
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks for the explanation Wyked. Good answer.
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Wyckedflesh
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 07:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mike with the hotspots as small as you see, its not as much a problem with these rotors. If you were seeing spots an inch long or more or half the width of the rotor face I would be worried about those spots. Also checking if the pads are glazed can be a sign that the caliper is binding and not releasing enough which leaves the pad to drag with pressure against the rotor. Try knocking off the glazing as I mentioned above before you write off that rotor, beleive me I have seen worse, and posted pics around here somewhere.
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Norrisperformance
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks again Wycked
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M1combat
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 08:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've seen worse as well... I'd still take the rotor off and lay it on a piece of glass, but I doubt it would be warped at all. Just as routine maintenance I'd also check the tension on the rotor as was suggested. Make sure it moves.

Can you describe the vibration Bryanb?
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Norrisperformance
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey M1
I know you directed the question at Bryanb.
You can hear and feel the vibration in
the brake lever. It is not bad enough to make
stop riding. You just know it ain't right.
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Bryanb
Posted on Sunday, March 13, 2005 - 11:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

When I apply the front brake it shacks and I have a visable hot spot on the rotor. Central Texas HD checked it out and said it was worped. Just told me it was covered so I would have to pay for a new one. I told them that I seen in the warrenty book that it was covered (even though I didn't have the book with me) and they said they would do some checking. They didn't have any in stock but at least pulled one off another bike they had in the back, put it on and let me go. NO shacking when I apply the front brake which is about 60 miles.
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Opto
Posted on Monday, March 14, 2005 - 03:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I had some shaking/pulsating which got worse the faster I went, this is a different scenario to the ppl who had loose steering head bearings. It was real bad at 90mph and could easily feel it through the lever and the bike, but at 50mph barely notice it. Turned out to be shot front wheel bearings. Replaced them and slowly it all came good again.
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Cruisin
Posted on Monday, March 14, 2005 - 09:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I had the same problem with mine. I felt the vibration as I slowed down and it turned into pulsing as I stopped.

My dealer took a look at it and covered it under warranty, saying it was warped. Assuming you've done nothing to cause the warpage they should cover it.
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Glitch
Posted on Monday, March 14, 2005 - 09:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

When the front tire wears, and cups, you get shake at braking as well. Just a data point, something to look into when all else fails.
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Fullpower
Posted on Monday, March 14, 2005 - 04:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i had a very badly warped front brake rotor. took it off 3 times, and roughed it up with rotary scotch brite pad on die grinder. replaced pads at same time, always helped a little bit, for a little while, but problem always wosened quickly, Harley dealer replaced rotor on warantee. also replaced the leaking fork seals (twice) warantee again.
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Crnrstr8nr
Posted on Monday, March 14, 2005 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I, too, have had this problem, and found it wasnt my steering bearings traced it to the rotor and have it in the shop now. For you guys that have the warped rotors at what mileage did you notice the vibes? Mine started at 900 mi under hard braking into a turn and felt like my front end was skipping. In any case seems awfully premature, mileage wise, for my rotor to be acting up.
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Norrisperformance
Posted on Wednesday, March 16, 2005 - 06:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Dealers replacing rotor and pads under warranty.
The rotor was warped.
They said failure was due to aggressive use.
Parts are on order, picking up the bike on Friday.
I’m wondering if the stock pads, just can’t take the heat.
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Keith
Posted on Wednesday, March 16, 2005 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

They said failure was due to aggressive use.

What a bunch of bull! There are many on this we site that race with the stock set up. Wonder what the dealer would say about that?
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Xbolt12
Posted on Wednesday, March 16, 2005 - 11:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mine has the same hot-spots. I periodically use brake cleaner on the rotor and I'm very careful with the Plexus so as not to get wax on the rotor. I have over 12k miles and have changed pads once and lightly sanded the glaze off at that time. I do have some pulsing again, but I have grown used to it and it seems to disappear during very hard braking. In my mind the hot spots are due to the way the rotor is cross-drilled and I wonder if the holes were counter-sunk slightly it might solve the problem (metal swell under heat causing the pads not to contact the rotor evenly.

xbolt12
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