| Author | Message | ||
     Corrupter |
Ok here is the situation. 03 xb9s 3500miles Battery was load tested and is okay. Battery hooked up to battery tender anyway to ensure proper charge. A loud clicking noise coming from the starter when starting and then it fires up. If it doesn't fire on the first try the engine light comes on, the fuel pump primes again, and the gauges do a 360 rotation and then i try to start it again and it does the clicking sound. Is it: Bad starter? Bad solenoid? (I'm leaning towards this problem) Bad connection somewhere that i cant find? If I get it to start will it die on me down the road or is it ok once its started as long as I dont shut it off? Thanks (Message edited by corrupter on March 01, 2005) (Message edited by corrupter on March 01, 2005) | ||
| Wheelsleaning |
Sounds like the solinoid is grounding out, which is why the gauges roll again. But I'm no master tech  | ||
| Xring |
Could be bad battery. Good luck, Bill | ||
| Kowpow225 |
Hmmm... Sounds like you have some electrical gremlins. First things first. Take your seat off and check the wiring harness from the ecm. (The big main group) Check it's routing so that no wires are touching ANYTHING under the seat, especially the battery "shelf". You'll have to be persistent to check all sides of the wires. Check your connections to the battery to make sure they're tight not snug. It may even be the connection to the starter. Can you leave a little bit more of a description as to what else it's doing? | ||
| Kowpow225 |
Reading your post again I've got a couple more questions. Does the starter engage EVERY time? Does it turn over slower now than it did before the problem arose? | ||
| Corrupter |
Kowpow. Seat was taken off and everything verified. I knew about the "rubbing" problem between the main ecm and the seat so I made sure nothing was touching. 1. No the starter did not engage when I tried it a couple of minutes ago. 2. Yes it turns over slower now. Additional info: When I put the battery tender on it a week and 2 weeks ago it charged and hit green light in about 20 minutes. I have had the charger on it now for over 40 minutes and still no green. I think I may have to get a new battery also. What do you think of this battery (on right) http://www.ebatteriestogo.com/landing_pages/powersport/UB14-B.htm (Message edited by corrupter on March 01, 2005) | ||
| Mikej |
Check the battery cable connection on the starter, they've been known to break behind/inside the connector insulation. This is an occasional problem on the 'tubers, don't know if it appears sometimes with the XB's. | ||
| Dbird29 |
Didn't someone have the problem of a loose connector on the battery? Felt tight but was corroded? I think it is the battery. DBird | ||
| Xbolt12 |
Have someone do a load test on the battery. Just because the voltage comes up, doesn't mean it has enough current output to start the engine. Ohms law is volts (E) * current (I} = power (Watts). A loose connection could do the same thing, also Ohms law shows that E=I*R - which in English means that you will drop Voltage across a bad connection when Current (I) moves through the Resistance (R) of the bad connection. Not only that, because copper wire is a conductor it will get hot across the bad connection and the heat adds friction (resistance)which causes more voltage to be lost across the connection. This is why if you short a wire it gets hotter and hotter until it burns up. xbolt12 | ||
| Xbolt12 |
Oops! Mr Know-It-All's bad! I should have read the part about the load test. My apology | ||
| Gearhead998 |
Mine did that same thing when I tried to start it when it was 9 degrees. I know, insane to ride that cold. Someone out there may be able to disprove this, but maybe poor lubrication, causing the engine to be extremely hard to turn. Just my 2 cents. | ||
| Corrupter |
Thank you for all your help guys. First thing i'm going to do is spring for a new battery and then go from there. | ||
| Fullpower |
who performed the "load test" on your battery, and what was the resultant CCA value rendered by the "load test"? I still stronglt suspect that you have a week battery. | ||
| Blackxb9 |
I had the same problem a few months ago. Even though I had the battery on a tender it went bad. Just happens sometimes if you get a bad cell or worn out battery. My bet is if you change it you will be good to go. | ||
| Thepup |
Check your relays also,I've had problems with them caused all kind of weird things. | ||
| Moboy516 |
I had the same symptoms on two different occasions. After changing the battery twice, I found out that I needed a new stator and new voltage regulator. Haven't had any electrical problems since. Not saying that this is what your problem is, but this was how they fixed mine. | ||
| Fullpower |
gearhead: you need to use a lighter viscosity oil for cooler temps.your bike can and will start at 9 degrees F, but i recommend a synthetic 10w-40 for that type of service. also, be aware that the motor will never reach its normal operating temperature in low ambient temps, and you will get a lot of moisture build up in the oil. recommend VERY frequent oil changes for winter operation. have fun. | ||
| Kowpow225 |
I stuff a towel in the oil cooler when it's extra chilly out. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Corrupter, I had the same problem last month,before you spring for a new battery,put a 10 amp charger on it for about an hour. Cured mine,battery tender won't pull it up.........Later Charlie | ||
| Fullpower |
i have left a shop rag stuffed in my oil cooler scoop since september. never have had my oil hot here in alaska. |
