|Posted on Saturday, January 16, 2021 - 11:37 am: ||
I had new front and rear pads put on my 1125. I used it for 200 miles and everything felt fine except the feel was not right. Very easy at first and then hard, almost like there was air in the line. I was out and everything was fine and then a texas mist started. Not really rain but 100% humidity. I just touched the front brake for a red light and went down with no warning. The front wheel had obviously locked up. Any ideas?
|Posted on Saturday, January 16, 2021 - 05:42 pm: ||
Are you using OE levers or aftermarket?
There was a lot of cheap levers sold for Buells that would push the master cylinder piston in a bit and not allow fluid pressure to release, causing a lock up.
Make sure you have some free play between the M/C piston end and the lever at rest.
|Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2021 - 04:55 pm: ||
OK, I have been reading and it seems there is a lot of play in the brake lever before you start to feel them. Mine is like that. The lever moves 1/3 before it gets firm. I tried moving the bike and it was braking during the first 1/3 of travel but there is no feel in the first 1/3. Could this whole low side been caused by a lack of brake bleeding after installation of new pads?
|Posted on Monday, January 18, 2021 - 01:31 am: ||
Well... I drove (drive all my bikes in the rain) my CR in the rain a fair amount going to work. Stock brake handle, but adjusted for quick movement. Only a small amount of free movement for heating of the parts during SoCals 100° days.
I normally used the EBC HH pads (in all of my bikes).
Never had any oddball problems in many miles.
You DO need a small amount of gap between the handle adjuster and the master cylinder piston. The aluminum parts swell with heat, the fluid swells with heat.
If you don't some freeplay in the brake handle, you WILL have problems.
|Posted on Monday, January 18, 2021 - 11:29 pm: ||
Not the lever moving, the GAP between the levers plunger and the MC piston, like Mike said too.
Sounds like a lot of movement, No you don't need to bleed brakes after a pad change, but you SHOULD flush the fluid every year.
Who knows what caused the low side. sounds like you were off center and the front brake locked up. Grease? oil? old tires? I wasn't there.
IMO, in order for me to trust the brakes again I would:
remove the brake lever, grease the pivot and check for smooth motion.
Re-install checking for clearance.
Remove the brake disk.
Clean the brake disk hardware and lube with a little anti-sieze.
Scotchbrite the whole rotor very well,
Reinstall and make sure it moves freely in the mounts on the wheel (dot goes on the outside, no need to align it with the valve stem)
lightly sand any glaze off the new pads.
Flush the fluid and bleed the brakes properly.
and BED the pads correctly.
Then do the rear.
PITA? not really, and much better than falling over