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Bells_of_mo
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello to all. I'm back with more clutch problems, yaaay! Recently I tried to replace the stock slave cylinder with the Oberon unit and actually snapped the aluminum on the Oberon cylinder. After salvaging some seals, I was able to re-install the stock unit. After installation, this would not bleed at all for the longest time. Finally I broke down and purchased the Mityvac to assist in the bleed and was able to get some fluid out of the bleeder valve. However, even with a good 25 lbs of vacuum, the amount coming out was very little and came very slow (lever pulled while vacuuming). I've been going back and forth with the standard bleeding procedure (pump lever, hold, break valve open) and the Mity vac but still the fluid is coming very slowly. I've bled about 4 - 5 master cylinder reservoir's worth of fluid through and I get actuation, but not yet have I had the over pressure "geyser" back at the reservoir. All test rides start great with the clutch acting normally, but I soon get slipping about 2 miles or less down the road once the bike is good and hot. I tried backing off the spherical nut a little more and get more grip for longer, but still end up slipping after a couple miles. Is there anything I'm missing here or do I need to just stick with the bleeding and eventually we'll be good? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Ggggary
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bleeding is NOT done with the lever pulled it is done with lever at "at rest" position. I have R&R'd both my 1125 and 1190 clutches and bleeding both was a non event. Fill reservoir put tube on bleeder, open til fluid comes out, shut bleeder, top off reservoir, proper clutch action, ride. remove line at clutch cover, fluid should freely run out from reservoir, if not R&R master cylinder, pay particular attention to the compensating port, it's tiny and easily clogged. Check line is open and free. Are you using a stock lever? Several have reported aftermarket levers do not allow enough clearance between tang and end of piston on MC. Confirm there is at least a little space there.
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Willmrx
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 - 12:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just a guess, you may want to recheck the washers position on the clutch diaphragm.
Do you have any photos of the damaged Oberon part? You may have done some damage to the cover or something else too.
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Willmrx
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


jjhtgdjgrteugyt


Here is a diagram of a master cylinder. If the compensating port is clogged, and once the fluid becomes hot and expands,it may start to disengage the clutch.

(Message edited by willmrx on May 22, 2019)
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Oldog
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 - 01:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Note when the cover is off and the lever is released the fluid will jet out of the relief port

HTH..
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Wesbronco
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've not been able to bleed my brakes or clutch with the mityvac. Like the op, it barely bleeds. Just enough liquid goes into the tube to make a huge mess when disconnecting it, but barely a drop gets into the canister. Wish there was a YouTube video on it.
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Bells_of_mo
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 - 03:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the replies! I'll try the mity vac with the clutch lever open at rest position this afternoon. I have had success in bleeding before with pulling the clutch lever 4 or 5 times, holding closed, then cracking the bleeder valve, closing bleeder valve, then releasing clutch lever. The relief port is free of clogs as i poked a little with the end of a guitar string and with a good set of eyes, could see the spring passing back and forth past the relief port. I've pulled the clutch line at the cover with a full reservoir and there seems to be flow just with gravity so I think we're good there. I'll try and get some pics of the busted Oberon part but while the cylinder fit in the clutch cover sleeve fine (circlip installed, key way lined up) the cylinder didn't seem to be in the proper range for actuation and the sperical nut bottomed out on the oberon cylinder and cracked after some overtightening (derp). Even though it's an 09', maybe someone installed a Rev A cover before I purchased the bike??? I'll update you all with results once I have them but I think we're close! Thanks again!
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Bubba_
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 - 08:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

think i'd be suspect of the slave cylinder install.
i botched my 1st attempt, but didnt realize it until i tried to bleed the line.
(could never clear the air from the line)
once it was corrected (properly seated) - bled w/ no problem.
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Shoggin
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 - 10:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The clutch slave was an interesting install, damn thing had to be clocked super exactly to get all the way in after a big fight.

Then had to go another fraction to seat properly...

a PITA.

If the holes don't line up, it won't bleed.
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Stimbrell
Posted on Thursday, May 23, 2019 - 05:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Quote "After salvaging some seals, I was able to re-install the stock unit"

Just checking but do you mean you are using Oberon seals with the stock unit as that might cause a problem.
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Bells_of_mo
Posted on Thursday, June 06, 2019 - 12:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, starting from scratch. Ordering a new clutch cover (R1029A.1AM), new Oberon slave , new vacuum diaphragm (X0069.1AM), and a new master cylinder and clutch line (N0104.1AMA) (N0103.1AM). The old cover was a little scored and probably damaging seals. The vacuum diaphragm was also tattered around the mounting holes. Probably still good but not that expensive to replace so I went with it. The master cylinder had an aftermarket lever and was also a little beat up so I'm going back to stock. The only thing I can't find a part number for is the circlip that holds the slave in place. Does anyone have a part number for that little guy? I probably can re-use the one I have but it's been in and out a few times so it doesn't spring back out fully.
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