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Three_buell
Posted on Tuesday, May 14, 2019 - 12:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, last summer I noticed what I thought was the opposite of the typical 1125 keyswitch broken wire problem. Loss of power when you turn the bars to full lock except my problem was The opposite, with steering locked and key removed I could jiggle the bars and bike would power up just like you turned on the key. I pulled the battery and tucked bike away in garage. I have five 2008 R’s and one 2009 CR and lots of parts. When I had the typical broken wire loss of power problem on a different 08 R in the past I made the repair by purchasing some silicone insulated wire off of eBay and replacing stock wire with longer better wire, I also made the same repair on 2 Of my spare parts. I had assumed that the “powering up” problem would be a similar fix to the “Loss of power“ problem because both problems occur when you turn steering to full lock. Never assume. So today I put brand new tires and battery on problem bike and replaced the suspected bad wiring part with one of my “Repaired“ spares. I have no lights, no gauges, Nothing. I tried my other “repaired” spare then I tried original part, battery is brand new showing 13.86 VDC all connections are good and clean. I have voltage to my 30 amp battery fuse and continuity test on all fuses is good and reading voltage through them. I swapped out all four relays with spares. Checked battery ground cable and ground wire at the headset.( by fairing bracket mounting point ) not sure if there are other ground wires yet. Started to untape the big mess of wires at the fairing bracket then decided to do some research. Shut the garage up, came inside and took the plastic off of my 2008 Buell electrical diagnostic manual. Wow, it will take me a while to get my head around this manual. Chapter 2 page 10 Initial Diagnostics says “Test the ground circuits to the battery for an open or high resistance“ if that is not it then it says “see instrument cluster and Gauges”. That’s it, nothing else. At this point I’m thinking I need to verify that the ground wire that comes out of the wiring harness and terminates by the fairing bracket mount Is the same smaller wire on the negative terminal of the battery and is continuous. It would be easy to put a jumper from battery negative terminal to where the ground is up front to see if that makes a difference. And I need to study this manual some, this is the first time I have had to open it.
If anybody has experienced this problem and would share their knowledge I would be very grateful.
The thing that is screwing with me is the fact that the bike was running and operating OK when I noticed the “power on“ problem and all I did was ride it home and pull the battery. Have not touched it since then until today? Thanks in advance. Jeff 217-722-5432
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Three_buell
Posted on Tuesday, May 14, 2019 - 01:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I forgot to mention that I tested from the female four pin connector to the ground wire that is right there and also to the negative terminal of the battery. I could not read any voltage and I’m thinking that at least one of those wires should be hot.
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Three_buell
Posted on Tuesday, May 14, 2019 - 12:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got it. Problem solved

It’s amazing what five hours of sleep and some food will do for the thought/ reasoning process.

I tried to review the electrical diagnostics manual this morning during breakfast, quickly realizing how much I suck at interpreting and retaining the information I was seeing. So I thought I would try to test point to point and see if I had voltage to the different relays. Before I got too far into that process I thought I am just going to start over from the beginning to verify I didn’t miss something in my sleep deprived state last night.
With key switch on and run switch on I was not seeing voltage through the key switch fuse so I grabbed a new 15 amp fuse and stuck it in. Voilŕ, like magic everything now works. I did remove fuse box cover and try to install battery before remembering that I had to pull at least The back two fuses to gain enough clearance to install battery. I could’ve damaged fuse while trying to get battery in before I pulled the fuses. I don’t remember ever seeing a fuse do that. In my experience a fuse is either good or bad. I don’t know why all fuses tested good for continuity last night and showed voltage through them. At this point I am guessing that I missed something in that process. Doesn’t matter now problem solved.
I will now put bike back together to the point where I can see if my “repaired“ part fixed the “Power on” problem while keeping fingers crossed.
Apparently I should’ve adhered more closely to the “Keep It Simple Stupid” principal.
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Stimbrell
Posted on Tuesday, May 14, 2019 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for posting the solution, we all learn from posts like these, good example of logic getting to the answer.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, May 14, 2019 - 02:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Interesting. The fuse box cover does have to come off to slide the battery in and out, but I don't remember the rear fuses having to be pulled out (and I have replaced my fair share of batteries on my 1125R.) I believe the whole fuse box can be pull up off the tray and then it can be moved around, out of the way if desired.
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