| Author | Message | ||
     Fresnobuell |
I have never experienced a wheel bearing issue on a motorcycle previously, so this was a first time issue. It began a few rides ago with an unidentifiable noise. The noise usually happened when I leaned left, but on my ride Saturday it was doing it more often and even when I got on the gas. Bottom line, it was my rear bearing on the sprocket side--a relatively common occurrence on our bikes. I have nearly 29,000 miles on the bearings. Unfortunately, when the bearing self destructed on Saturday it also damaged the wheel. So save yourself some money and possibly an incident on the road and look at changing your bearings, especially if you develop noises that are unidentifiable.   | ||
| Willmrx |
I check the bearings every time I put a new tire on, for that reason. I all so replaced the rim with the three bearing style! I am glad you are okay! | ||
| Shoggin |
Sorry you got bit, but ya. Buells are well known for catastrophic wheel bearing failure  I've had my fair share and now I just put in new bearings every time I put on new tires, IMO, Its $40 well spent as insurance to not have to call for a tow or buy a new wheel. | ||
| Willmrx |
You can only replace them so many times before you start to increase the OD of the rim and then the bearing well start increasing the OD as well. The 3 bearing is the way to go. I got very lucky and got a NOS rear wheel 3 bearing on E bay for cheap. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I kinda figured since I ride in pristine weather only I was immune from wheel bearing issues. Wrong! These are wear items. It's not fun to be riding and feel the rear tire wiggling all over the place. Felt like a big time flat tire. It's also very disconcerting to be hearing a strange, seemingly random noise. Oh well, learning experience for me that I wanted to share to possibly help someone that might get in the same spot. Anyhow. Not sure bearing are needed every tire change, but I will for sure be replacing them every few tire changes (esp on the rear.) Cheap insurance. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Since the noise was coinciding with getting on the gas at the end, I was thinking it was coming internally from the motor, so while $300 is alot to replace the wheel and bearings....it COULD have been worse/fatal if it was a motor issue. But I forgot these Helicons are bulletproof  Plus I kept it on two wheels. The last time I trailered my bike back from that road, I had a separated shoulder and fractured elbow from a crash. This time it was a much more "happy" trip if that makes sense....made me late for an early Halloween party, but all in all I will take it! (Message edited by fresnobuell on October 17, 2018) | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Need some opinions on the axle itself. I would say there is "minor" scoring on the axle. I believe this is the area that interfaces with the inner race of the bearing. The inner race doesn't turn on the axle, correct? I am trying to see if I should pony up for a new axle or if this is OK to reuse. Opinions?  | ||
| Willmrx |
It's not the scoring to be concerned with, it's the shoulder next to it, that can cause a concern. If enough of that shoulder gets removed it may put more pressure on the inner race when you tighten the axle. | ||
| Willmrx |
It's not the scoring to be concerned with, it's the shoulder next to it, that can cause a concern. If enough of the shoulder gets removed, it may put more pressure on the inner race when you tighten the axle. By the look on the photo it looks okay. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
So yea or nah on this axle? I don't think any material has been removed other than the scoring and the burn marks from where it looks like the bearing had seized at the end of its life. | ||
| Pwillikers |
I'd clean it up and reuse it. | ||
| Pwillikers |
And thanks for the heads up. I have 35K miles on my '09 CR. I recently replaced the drive belt with a new one which is unbelievably tight. I wonder how much that contributes to bearing failures? | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Dang. Come to think about it. I replaced my drive belt recently as well. Could definitely be a connection. I am going to use the old axle. The replacement wheel will have the orange bearings already installed, so I don't plan to put too many miles on the orange bearings. I should see early if the axle is causing any issues. I don't think it will. Anyone have experience with the "All Balls" brand of bearings? Good as Buell OEM? (Message edited by fresnobuell on October 18, 2018) | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Double post (Message edited by fresnobuell on October 18, 2018) | ||
| Willmrx |
I get my bearings locally. I get a much higher quality bearing, plus you can choose what type of seal is on it. For the three bearing set up, I use bearings that have low drag seals that have a higher RPM ratings. I do that because the three bearing set up uses a additional outer seal, so you don't have to get the ones that are rubber sealed. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I have read that ALL Ball bearings are cheap Chinese bearings, which kind of makes sense. $11 for a set of front bearings is just too cheap. I am going OEM as they seem like a decent quality. I will go local when the OEM bearings are gone (if they do go obsolete). How much do you get the bearings for locally? I spoke briefly to a local shop here, but I was lazy and ordered the OEMs. | ||
| Panshovevo |
I bought an ‘08 1125R back in late ‘15, that was making strange screeching noises from the left side of the motor, according to the seller. After buying it and riding it some, I pulled the left side cover, and found nothing wrong under it. Turned out, the left side rear wheel bearing was bad, but the noise was being carried forward by the fairings. I posted this info back in late 2015. (Message edited by Panshovevo on October 18, 2018) | ||
| Willmrx |
Buying bearing locally are more expensive. I think you can get the same quality, for a little less online. | ||
| Shoggin |
There's a lot of mark-up at the dealer for a easily sourced industrial part but the security is worth it. Try Lance at SPHDonline.com. He's Lance651 on here. Or if you have a good local bearing company tell them the application and give them the number off the race. They can get you what you need and keep the quality as high as you want to spend! A 3-bearing wheel (and axle kit) is a good idea if you have to buy a wheel anyway, but IMO far from mandatory. There is no way maintaining your motorcycle by properly installing bearings in your wheel every 5-6k miles will increase any OD of anything. Ever. IMO, A "high rpm" sealed bearing is pointless on a wheel application that goes maybe 200rpm max (?) and be aware they don't seal as well. You could probably get away with that on a 3 bearing wheel like WilliamRX did that has additional outer seals, but I wouldn't put that type of weak seal on a regular 2 bearing wheel for no benefit. You axle looks just ok to me from that pic, but they are not something you want to worry about. You can get the Black 3 bearing axle and it will work on your existing 2 bearing wheel and also the 3 bearing wheel if you upgrade later. If you want a free 2-bearing axle PM me and I'll send one to you If there was any wear on the shoulder of you axle (doesn't look like it) you would actually have less pressure holding the bearings together. "Pre-load" is the completely wrong word though, they aren't tapered bearings like a car or trailers wheel hub, and don't need a calculated "pre-load". The square shoulder of the axle simply holds the inner race of one bearing against the axle spacer tube, the other bearings inner race and the opposite side of the swing arm. No "pre-load" it simply holds the assembly together tightly (torque to 25ft/lbs, spin the wheel, back off 2 turns and re-torque to 50 Ft/lbs) Speaking of spacers, if the rear axle was ever way over torqued (happens a lot) the aluminum inner axle spacer tube could have been squished to a shorter dimension. That is bad. It would side load the roller bearings and most definitely shorten their life drastically. Sorry for the novel  | ||
| Fresnobuell |
man, that's exactly what was happening with my bike as well. Maybe I should have searched Badweb...."Screeching". I guess that is the best way to describe it. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Funny, I just purchased a bi-directional torque wreench off Amazon. My fancy Craftsman only works clockwise. So , I don't think I ever over-torqued the axle significantly, although I never used a torque wrench. Nah, I think it's just mileage combined with a new belt possibly that caused the demise of the bearing... Also, thanks for the offer of the free axle. I am going to use some steel wool to clean up mine and re-use it. | ||
| Willmrx |
Shoggin, I was mistaken on the axle shoulder. It is the inner sleeve on the two wheel bearing set up, and on the three bearing the right side spacer also can affect the inner race tension. And for the way overkill rear bearing, when I went to get one locally, they only had cheep chinese or overkill. I went for Space shuttle quality overkill ($2.00 more per bearing)! And I must respectfully disagree. Removing and reinstalling press fit bearings,you will always remove a small amount material. The issue is the two wheel bearing rear wheel hub. I have had the stock original bearing come loose from the hub! I was able to pull the bearing right out, with my hand. The hub design is not beefy enough to handle the loads on the hub, causing the OD to increase. So on a normal rear wheel hub there should not be a issue on the amount of times that you can replace a bearing.But on the 1125r,that is not the case. | ||
| Panshovevo |
^^^ It’s the ID of the bearing bore that increases, not the OD. | ||
| Willmrx |
Yes! | ||
| Willmrx |
Yes. | ||
| Panshovevo |
Incidentally, when I changed the rear bearings in my first R model, I ordered top line bearings from my local NAPA. I didn’t check the price until I picked them up and got home, as I bought some other expensive items the same day. They charged me $45 each for the damn things! Seems like they were Fafnir brand, but I don’t remember for sure. I sure hope they last a while. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
...from my old notes on the subject: Replacement bearings Koyo (Japanese Mfg. not Chinese, approved as a supplier by Toyota ) Front (2) 6005; Rear (2) 6006 (double sealed)...supplier was Applied Industrial Technologies: https://www.applied.com/ I used some loctite (660)... to retain the bearings in the wheel http://www.loctite.com.au/3320_AUE_HTML.htm?nodeid =8802627715073 3 bearing wheel info ( Part numbers): (1)wheel(black) G0309.7AAYT or (1)wheel (red) G0309.7AAYCC plus you'll need these ($ adds up quickly!) (6) bolt (brake rotor) CA0005.9A7 (6) bolt (pulley) AA0609.11CXZB (1) Valve Stem G0313.02A8 (1) Axle Kit ( includes bearings)G1321.02A8 I have a unused 3 bearing axle kit available for sale... PM me if interested. ( no way to make it work in the 2 bearing wheel casting) hth (Message edited by nuts4mc on October 23, 2018) | ||
| Fresnobuell |
This confuses me. I tend to agree with the statement that a press-in bearing cannot be removed and installed an unlimited amount of times. Things just don't usually work like that--especially a "friction fit" item. If this is the case why would a "normal" press-in hub be any different than the 1125 hub? What am I missing? | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Are you saying that the rotor and pulley cannot be transferred from the 2 bearing wheel? Too bad they didn't make the 3 bearing wheel in the Diamond Blue color. They kinda screwed the '08 owners.... | ||
| Willmrx |
Fresnobuell, Just a guess, but I think there is not enough metal around the bearing, plus the loads that the 1125R puts on that side of the hub are to much and cause it to work loose. I guess the question is, what caused Buell to redesign the rear hub and add a third bearing? I think they came out with the three bearing set up it, before the 1125R, but I am not sure. |
