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Archive through October 23, 2018Willmrx30 10-23-18  03:45 pm
         

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Panshovevo
Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2018 - 07:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

FWIW, I bought some EBay $3 bearings for the front wheel, just for comparison. Havenít installed any of them yet, havenít decided yet if I will.

I may wash out the grease and re-pack them with quality grease, then try them out.

Iím sure as hell not going to test them in my magnesium wheels!

(Message edited by Panshovevo on October 23, 2018)
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Panshovevo
Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2018 - 07:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:


This confuses me.

I tend to agree with the statement that a press-in bearing cannot be removed and installed an unlimited amount of times. Things just don't usually work like that--especially a "friction fit" item.

If this is the case why would a "normal" press-in hub be any different than the 1125 hub? What am I missing?




Maybe because the designer was aiming for the minimum unsprung weight possible? And intended replacement wheels to be reasonably priced?

IDK...

Nor do I know what a replacement wheel costs for competitive bikes.

Edit: Fresnobuell, ignore the above...call it a brain fart.

(Message edited by Panshovevo on October 23, 2018)
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Shoggin
Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2018 - 07:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ya, I agree the hub could be stronger and I believe WilliamRX is right that thats why after 6 years of wheel production, Buell changed the rear of the Uly to a 3-bearing rear. And it's on the belt side...

I do know a proper press fit and proper installation shouldn't cause any measurable amount material to be removed in the process. The press fit only needs to resist the internal friction of the spinning bearing itself. That's why it's not a very tight in the hub, even brand new. Just like FresnoBuell, I drop some Loc-tite in the hub as insurance if the bearing wants to freeze up. I'd rather smoke an axle than a wheel.

IMO swapping for new bearings with new tires (about every 6k) will net almost 3 changed at my current 22K mileage. That shouldn't ruin a wheel hub and is fantastic 'trip insurance' : ) But like I said IMO.
Of course if you take the argument to the ridiculous end of a million swaps, sure... ya...
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Willmrx
Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2018 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Last spring and summer I was putting a new rear tire on about every 6 weeks! No joke. Plus we were riding them like we stole them! The loc-tite is a great idea for sure.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2018 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

fresno....the rotor and pulley CAN be reused,... the bolts that are used to attach them to the wheel are a PIA to remove (heat may help...but then you may change the heat treatment of the bolts)...you may have to drill them out ...or the spline drive may be ruined and you will not be able to torque the (old) bolts to the proper torque value when re-assembling to the new wheel.
hth
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Wednesday, October 24, 2018 - 04:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

fresno....the rotor and pulley CAN be reused,... the bolts that are used to attach them to the wheel are a PIA to remove (heat may help...but then you may change the heat treatment of the bolts)...you may have to drill them out ...or the spline drive may be ruined and you will not be able to torque the (old) bolts to the proper torque value when re-assembling to the new wheel.
hth




I have a new wheel coming on Friday, so I have already removed the rotor and sprocket from the ruined wheel. They were a pain mostly because I had the wheel laying horizontally on a slippery surface and it wanted to spin as I tried to remove the bolts.

Once I got smart and put the wheel vertical on the ground, I was able to break them free with a 18 inch breaker bar and it did take a fair amount of force. Bolts appeared to be ok to reuse.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, October 30, 2018 - 06:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone change the bearings themselves? What do you use for a tool? I was looking at this, but I would love something a bit cheaper...
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SUX9MI/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A9NJNMT9ZTSIP&psc=1



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Shoggin
Posted on Tuesday, October 30, 2018 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One basic blind bearing tool should be plenty accurate
Thats what I use.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2018 - 03:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The blind bearing tool is for removal only? If so, what's your method for installing the new bearing?
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Shoggin
Posted on Wednesday, October 31, 2018 - 10:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a bearing driver for tapered bearings that works but I usually use the old bearing as the thing to tap against.

They aren't pressed in very hard, just make SURE to tap them in slowly and evenly and to seat them against the inner axle spacer. You can hear the different sound when they are seated. Tap, not hammer: )

Rear axle is 25ft/lbs, spin the tire, back off 2 turns, and then re-torque to 50ft/lbs. Front is 20 and 40.
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Willmrx
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 01:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

These are what I use to remove and install bearings (Harbor Freight). I have had no luck with the slide hammer on the larger bearings, so I put in the insert and use a hammer to drive the bearing out. And for the installer, I use a threaded rod to install them instead of hammering them in.
jgkf

wertghbg
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Shoggin
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep, exactly what I'm talking about, thank for the pics!
I've seen that blind removal tool there at HF and it's really cheap! How does it work for you? Does it stay attached to the inner race or does it pop out? I could use a new one and my Snap-On guy has been MIA for years: (

I've never been able to do the threaded rod cheat, they always go sideways on me, conscientious tapping is my go-to. haha.
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Willmrx
Posted on Thursday, November 01, 2018 - 11:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There are 100 ways to skin a cat. The threaded rod works well for me. The blind removal tool works okay. You have to get it really tight, and I use a 2 1/2 pound hammer to pound the bearing out.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Monday, November 12, 2018 - 04:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The bearings for our bikes are standard automotive bearings.

The front wheel uses size 6005 and the rear 6006.

I purchased Nachi brand locally, since it's getting hard and expensive to find the Buell KBC bearings. Nice to have a permanent alternative.

Nachi is supposed to be middle of the road Japanese brand. I was told they are superior to the Buell KBC-branded bearings (which was the upgrade from the orange seal bearings that were fitted originally on the 1125R.)

Nachi 6005 2NSE9 C3 (Front) $14.34 ea
Nachi 6006 2NSE9 C3 (Back) $17.89 ea

YMMV.

(Message edited by fresnobuell on November 12, 2018)
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