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Pchaser123
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2018 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So my clutch has been weeping for a bit. One day all the fluid drained out. I refilled the master and bled the system no problem. I rode it without issues for 500+ miles with only a minor weep. I stopped for some dinner and came out to find my clutch had no pressure at all. The lever was totally soft/ wouldn't engage the clutch (fluid levels fine).

I replaced the slave cylinder... Nothing. I figured it must be the master. That didn't fix it either.

Today I tried reverse bleeding it and it seems as if the fluid doesn't get past the slave cylinder. It pushes the slave out and stops, when I push the slave back in it'll shoot some fluid and air out of the nipple/bleeder valve.

It seems like the slave isn't allowing fluid to pass for some reason!? What am I missing?!?

Only thing remaining is the clutch line and that seems fine.

Should I try a vacuum bleeder instead?

Why won't my clutch build pressure?

Thanks for all the help!!!
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2018 - 06:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

with a ty-wrap...tie the clutch lever back to the clip on ( like when you pull the clutch in)....see if that helps when you reverse bleed...hth
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Shoggin
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2018 - 07:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry, Old wives tale ^^^.
If the clutch M/C piston is pushed in (like the lever is pulled) the system cannot bleed because you are covering the hole from the reservoir that feeds fluid into the line in order to be able to build pressure in the line. for the same reason, It is impossible for air to escape.

If you still have a new (empty) M/c and empty slave as well, bleeding can be tricky. A vacuum bleeder is nice and can save some time. They are cheap and can be found at Harbor Freight for about $20.

If you don't want to do that, first check the M/c. There is a big hole and a very small hole. Make sure they are clear ESPECIALLY the tiny hole. You can use welding tip cleaners or stainless wire you pull out of a clean wire brush.

With the M/c full, open the bleeder at the slave and wait. resist temptation and do nothing to the lever. just wait.

check on it every 10 mins or so and note if the M/C level is going down, refill if needed.

It can take awhile but Once you see solid drips of fluid from the slave bleeder. Close it. SLOWLY pump the lever and after its extended to the clutch it should be fine. You might need to do the usual pump and bleed after that, but not usually.

Note: I have had issues bleeding bikes where the M/c is at an drastic angle. Loosen and rotate if you have to. The open end of the piston should be the highest and as level as possible.

FYI the Oberon Clutch slave is expensive but worth every stinking penny. Clutch effort was tested by me and reduced by HALF in the EBR.
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