|Posted on Sunday, July 01, 2018 - 08:19 am: ||
Help. While riding home from work my bike died. It was about a 25 mile commute ride home from work, a few back roads and suburbs. The voltage slowly dropped during the entire ride, had check engine and battery lights on the display. Eventually the the voltage warning message came on and the bike died. Bike is an 09 with approx 3800 miles, and it had the factory wiring harness fix done many years ago, and is stock otherwise.
I was only a mile from home, so I let it site for a few minutes, jump started it again from my truck and was thankfully able to get it home.
Can anybody give me some general pointers on what to check and/or replace ? I have the factory shop and electrical manuals. I'm moderately handy but not really experienced in engine or electrical work, mostly a part swapper when I have to be.
From general reading it looks like my plan of attack is the voltage regulator first, then possibly/probably a stator ? Are there any other components in play here ? Should I just bite the bullet and swap out the regulator weather it needs it or not ?
|Posted on Sunday, July 01, 2018 - 09:20 am: ||
Bill, your profile shows you have 2009 model year...depending upon the miles you have on the bike the stator could be bad...it over heats, burns out the insulation, and electrically shorts out...basically a design flaw...you need to pop the seat and check the charging systems out put ...this is done by disconnecting the big grey connector with three yellow wires...since pictures speak louder than words ...here is a link to a You tube video showing the testing:
use the Google search at the top of this page to help you understand the charging system issues and the repair...basically you'l have to replace ( with aftermarket parts) the stator and VR ( and relocate the VR) and have the rotor modified to aid in cooling the new stator...it's not cheap if you do it right...hth
|Posted on Wednesday, July 04, 2018 - 10:38 am: ||
Nuts4me, but everyone who may be able to help. Oh yeah, is a 2009 1125R.
I watched the youtube video and did the stator test. No ground problems, when running 2 legs had 1.x volts and the 3rd leg had 2.x volts ac. At 3k rpm each leg went up a volt or 2 but that's it. Nowhere near the 20 and 40 volts as explained in the video. So I guess I need a stator job.
That being said, I guess I will do both the stator and the voltage regulator (eventually), but it looks like the stator comes first. I need to read my books and figure out how to take it out. But what do I do with it ? I've never done this job before. Is this something that I can mail out to be rewound/fixed ? Or is there an aftermarket new stator that I can replace it with ?
Also, I don't understand the comment regarding the rotor being modified. Is that the part the goes over the stator ? Is that something I have to modify or are you suggesting that I have it modified ? Can't I just use the existing part ?
(Message edited by billp on July 04, 2018)
(Message edited by billp on July 04, 2018)
|Posted on Wednesday, July 04, 2018 - 12:19 pm: ||
C'mon man use that google thing at the top of the page:
Twin motorcycles in Europe has documented the whole Stator/Rotor thing ( 100+ pages long)...of course some of the suppliers are in Europe (Doh!)...here's a link pay attention to things marked in RED:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1jpeaIjhXahXGlw 42APb_s55B4GgmIw3V5P40juGPsl4/edit#heading=h.5ry2w xm5n7c2
here is a "string" with links to often asked questions and answers:
you may want to think about the amount of work and cost of parts before you start...might be better to put off after your riding season...so you don't hurry and make a mistake...hth
|Posted on Wednesday, July 04, 2018 - 12:31 pm: ||
Nuts. Smart ass
I didn't realize erikbuellracing.net was out there and I had no idea of that upgrade part but I do now.
I had found the rick motorsports site but didn't know if there were any other alternatives.
Thanks for the info. My XB9S is working fine so I can ride that. I might as well start doing my research and I'll probably start ordering parts in the next few weeks.
I found several posts with lots of pictures and some videos so I'll digest all that with a frosty beverage.
|Posted on Wednesday, July 04, 2018 - 12:58 pm: ||
glad to help...
1) removing the rotor is NOT easy...that big nut...Harbor freight has a deep impact socket that works...but do you do it the correct way ( buy a crank locking tool and use a long cheater bar to break it loose?...or get out the big impact wrench???...think about it)
2) you got to use the correct Loctite (648 or 680) on a new nut...suggest you use a new nut as the torque required is very high.
3) torque the new nut...crank lock and borrow a torque wrench from a local diesel engine shop? (torque value is very high)...or crank up the air pressure for the impact wrench???
4) pay attention to the "timing marks" on the balancer gear...it runs on a small shaft that usually comes out when you pull the cover...dropping the gear on to the crank gear...as you take off the rotor ( it's NOT a press fit...once the nut is off the rotor will "fall" off)the balancer gear will do it's best to fall on the ground testing gravity on your garage floor.
5) If you do decide to replace the stator and modify the rotor...yes buy a new VR from roadster cycle (SH847 Series type)
and mount it in a "air stream" ( google VR mounting)
HTH ...good luck