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Fred_is_not_me
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 01:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have replaced the stator and rotor only in the 1125cr. I still seem to have issues with charging as the dash light eventually disappears and the speedometer stops working. Could be unrelated, but it sucks running around on this machine thinking your bike is going to overheat and fail on you even after the change.

The purpose of this post is the ask the following question : ):

Do we have a definitive answer on whether you should "undo" the HD fix only after you update with new stator and EBR rotor?

I would like to be able to run this bike at lower rpms on long highway rides and not have to worry about the battery being drained. I'm also using a Shorai battery so it is tiny and tons of maintenance.
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Joe7bros
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 06:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you replace the voltage regulator? Shindengan SH847; series V/R instead of the Ducati shunt V/R currently on the bike. And yes, you can remove the Harley fix.
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Fred_is_not_me
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 07:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I didn't do voltage regulator. Is it a necessity? I know we can remove the Harley fix : ), but is that the best practice considering the fixes I have done?
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Trendkillkustoms
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 07:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The CE 605SB regulator is what I have, and have read several articles on them. Only downside is the size and necessity for constant air flow, so on these bikes, it is necessary to mount them external of the body. I did like most and made a custom license plate/regulator bracket under the seat. There are threads in the archive with photos of the unit and mounting. I so far, knock on metal, have not had any issues with it.
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Joe7bros
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 09:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Replace the V/R; series regulators handle excess charge and heat much better than the stock shunt type regulator; you should check out the charging sub section
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Joe7bros
Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 09:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here: Stator/Voltage Regulator/Charging System subforum

Last post to this section was 04/27/2018
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Stevel
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2018 - 01:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

For those uninformed. Automotive alternators have V/rs that control the excitation current that builds the magnetic field that generates current in the alternator windings. The net result is that the automotive alternator only makes the energy required.

On a motorcycle, the magnetic field of the rotor is generated by permanent magnets. So, the alternator is always making maximum energy required or not. The shunt regulators (standard)regulate by dumping the excess energy to earth in a load parallel to bike system, hence the word shunt.

A series regulator controls the energy from the stator coils by controlling the duty cycle of the stator coils' connections by switching them into and out of the circuit. This allows the net energy of the alternator to be controlled, but not its peak current. Peak coil current would be the same as in a shunt system, but because the coils are not always in circuit, the average energy out will only be what the bike system needs. Yes, the switching transistors do get warm, but no where near as much heat has to be shed as with a shunt regulator. So not only do series regulators run cooler, they extract less horsepower from the crankshaft as well.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Thursday, June 28, 2018 - 04:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stevel--What is the best voltage regulator to replace my stock one?
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Stevel
Posted on Friday, June 29, 2018 - 04:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All the series V/Rs are good, but many use the Shindengan SH847, even me.
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