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Kenttyy74
Posted on Monday, May 21, 2018 - 09:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey there guys, I'm having a problem with my 1125r.

It's a 2008 with 18000 miles on it running with a race ECU and exhaust.

I've driven this motorcycle for 14000 miles now. With no problems except the usual maintenance. However recently this year only it goes through this problem while riding that it just shuts off when I'm using it the most.

I'll be riding along say in 3rd gear go to pass someone, give it basically full throttle bring it up to anywhere between 7000 and red line. And right at peak power the bike physically just shuts off. As rps come back down and I'm coasting, The bike will turn back on at some point. There does not seem to be a correlation between rpms and shutoff. There does however seem to be a correlation between the amount of load on the engine. If I ride at under 3/4 throttle This problem would Never happen.

It seems to be the problem the most when I go to pass another car. I down shift the gear, usually from 4th to 3rd, starting at 60 miles an hour and usually the bike shuts off somewhere around a 100 to a 120. Around 3 to 10 seconds later the bike just turns back on.

Obviously this is a major safety concerns

Once again this is a perfectly normal running bike, Unless I getUsing the engine to the fullest.

To be clear when the bike shuts Off, there is no warning no sputtering nothing literally goes from full throttle to nothing. Just about put my head through the windshield every time it does it. When the bike comes back on it does the exact opposite. It resumes writing at whatever throttle level you're at instantly , Almost throwing me off the back every Time.

Here are some things that I've considered:

Possibly oil pressure sensor killing the engine?
ECU cuts out, or the fuel map is incomplete?


Please.

Any help would be appreciated, Hopefully there someone on here that has had a problem like this before .
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Monday, May 21, 2018 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's a new one I think. Scary too.

And trouble codes stored in the ECM?

I hope someone can help you or at least get you pointed in the right direction....
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Stimbrell
Posted on Monday, May 21, 2018 - 12:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is this not the solenoid that cuts power to meet the noise rules? Search this forum for "denoid" and you will find all you need to know.
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Kenttyy74
Posted on Monday, May 21, 2018 - 12:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stimbrell,

Thank you for the advice, although I have not removed or modified the original solenoid, I was under the impression that a race ECU deactivates the whole device?.

I'll be extremely happy if I missed something here. Please expand your knowledge.
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Shoggin
Posted on Monday, May 21, 2018 - 12:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It wouldn't be the solonoid, any code that would be there would be a result of the shut off, not the cause.

It's an odd one, but I would look at the ECM, as in physically.
Take it out. Is it cracked? are the plugs ok? any frayed wires?

The same for the ignition coil.

And all your grounds #Buellizm....
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Monday, May 21, 2018 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ignition switch wiring?...you turn the bars to pass the car
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/717369.html?1374898861

kick stand switch?...the wiring is there but there is NO switch on the US models...if the wire is "shorting out" ( grounding) it will kill the motor...early attempts at adding a speed shifter utilized the wire.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/704077.html?1359439937

Clutch lever switch...it affects idle speed to improve ability to leave from a stop...but never heard of any clutch lever operation killing the motor...hth
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Stimbrell
Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2018 - 04:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry, missed that you have the race ecm.
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Kenttyy74
Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2018 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you to everyone for being so helpful. Please keep the responses coming with any ideas. I will definitely take a close look at anything that is listed above and get back to you guys.

My gut feeling tells me that I'm Running out of spark. Whether be in ECU failure or a coil or wire failure. The only code listed is a communications failure. But from what I understand that's fairly common on this bike.

Something that does concern me though is the fact that it I've never seen it happen outside of 3rd . The solenoid only activates in 3rd gear correct?
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Kenttyy74
Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2018 - 09:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To further explain. When the bike shuts off it goes from 100% to 0% instantly. No hesitation no stutter no wobble no backfire. When it comes back on it comes back on instantly to wherever your TPS is reading. I feel like if it was fuel pressure related there would be a small amount of stutter. Does this Bike have an oil pressure safety switch? I don't have a kick stand safety switch but I will check the wiring. I will also check the wiring to the ECU from the handlebars. And fiddle with that.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2018 - 09:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I believe you are correct ( 3rd gear operation only)...here's a link to a denoid discussion:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/793350.html?1473461085

after removal of the 'noid...the linkage needs to be "secured"
hth

(Message edited by nuts4mc on May 22, 2018)
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2018 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh yes, the infamous "noid". Biggest safety hazard ever. Hard to believe someone thought thaat was a good idea.

It's been ten years since I pulled my noid out, but IIRC there was some stuttering as the noid engaged. Almost like hitting a soft rev limiter?

Your condition sounds an awful lot like what happens when the Buelltooth Quickshifter engages, although the QS only cuts spark for something like 70ms. However, it's a definite immediate loss of power....

Do you have the stock ECM? Perhaps it's worth dropping it in to see if the problem replicates itself?
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Shoggin
Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 01:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A bad CPS would do something like that as well.
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Willmrx
Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2018 - 02:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The CPS (crank position sensor),may not be bad, you may want to remove it and see if it has metal shavings on it causing it to miss read the crank. You can test it out by putting a know good one in and see. You do not need to rotate the engine to test it.
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Kenttyy74
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2018 - 02:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK after testing and fiddling with everything I can possibly imagine, I think the answer is a clogged air filter.(yes I feel like a bumbass)

The old one was completely full. I bought a new K&n, put on about 60 miles today riding as hard as I possibly could in 2nd 3rd and 4th year. It hasn't failed once in that 60 miles.

I will definitely keep an eye on it in The next 5 or 6 rides, but usually it would have done it by now @ the speeds/rpms I'm riding.

Thank you all for your help hopefully this post might help someone else in the future.
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Friday, May 25, 2018 - 03:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a clogged airfilter from the bike sitting for about 6 weeks over winter. I believe the moisture settled the dirt/grease into the air filter and made it a choke point. My bike died a few times coming to a stop and when I tried to take off. A good cleaning of my K&N fixed it.


Glad you seemed to have found the issue. Please report back if the issue returns...
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Kenttyy74
Posted on Thursday, July 05, 2018 - 12:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok guys. I'm back. Less then 100 miles later. This time it seems to be my tps.

Started the bike like normal, but had very little power. Stalled it. I never stall, so it was odd.

It felt like I had to go to full throttle just to get it to move.

Checked TPS in diag, it was reading 2 to 54.

Reset TPS well over 15 times to get it to the best I could 2-87.

Rideable, but it dont feel snappy like it should.

Why, and best fix? Replace TPS? Anyone got tips?
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Ceejay
Posted on Friday, July 13, 2018 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you try cleaning your kill switch? Pull the right handlebar cluster apart, and carefully disassemble the cluster. Do it on a clean table or similar, as there are very small springs and ball bearings inside. Lightly sand (1000g) the copper contacts. These are 10 year old bikes. My start switch had 5 ohms of resistance, and the kill switch was well in excess of that. If nothing else it will provide peace of mind, but I was having poor starts, and random shut downs and finally got it fixed by taking care of that cluster.
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Ceejay
Posted on Saturday, September 01, 2018 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Interesting thing, I just went on a 600 mile ride today, and the exact same thing happened to me, a number of times. When I got near home though and tried to replicate it I could not. Mine wasnít only high revs but noticeable when I tried to go from 4K to 7k for example. I was just droning along and then it would act is if there was water in the gas, which is my only current possibility. If anyone else has had this happen please chime in.
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Ceejay
Posted on Sunday, September 09, 2018 - 02:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A little bit of internet research show that cycle world made mention of the same issue during some comparison testing with the 848.
In conjunction, my low fuel light has been coming on even though Iíve had over 3 gal of gas in the tank.
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Stimbrell
Posted on Monday, September 10, 2018 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just read that Cycle world review, it says that Buell thought the cut outs were caused by faulty fuel pumps. The low fuel light issue is fairly common, the fix is to fit the thermistor from an XB, did mine a few years ago.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Monday, September 10, 2018 - 09:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

need to read this entire attached post...
a) kinda gives you a direction about the fuel level sensor (1313 post, page 1,2,3)
b) the "bulkhead connector" the one that connects electricity from the outside the tank/frame to the fuel pump inside can be faulty... ("Nobuell" near the end of the post)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/760318.html?1431529294

hth
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Ceejay
Posted on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 05:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thatís great info guys, thanks for it. Looks like i get to tinker this weekend.
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