|Posted on Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 11:07 am: ||
Had my '09 1125R die while parking it at work; was kinda turning it to back it in just right. a little disturbing in that I could think of no good reason for it to die..
gave it some thought while at work; she drove home fine, then as I parked it - decided to put the front steering range of motion to the test.
sure enough, I turned to extreme right and instant shut down.
thankfully, i'd already read thru tons of info here. Specifically from Zac and Nobuell.
My understanding is I can remove the 2 screws underneath the ignition, that will allow access and hopefully expose the problem wire (?)
Expect or hope to add some length to the wire and solder it back up
|Posted on Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 12:33 pm: ||
There are two sets of screws on the ignition assembly. The larger Torx security screws allow you to remove the entire ignition from the top triple clamp, which I found to be easiest. You need a Torx security tool, which has the hole in the center of the tip to fit over the pin in the Torx security screw. McMaster-Carr has them on line if you can't find one locally.
Speaking from experience, I would advise caution if you need to remove the plastic cap that the wires run through into the ignition base. Once you have the ignition out of the top triple clamp, you'll see there are little plastic tabs on the cover that you carefully press in to remove the cap and slide it down the wiring harness.
There's also a set of tabs to allow removing the base that the wires are soldered to from the plastic ignition tube.
Make sure you know which tabs free what part. I nearly wrecked the cap by trying to pry it off while pushing in the wrong set of tabs.
Once you have everything apart, the wiring repair is pretty straightforward. While you're at it, you may be able to reorganize the many wiring bundles that are routed through the fairing bracket, which can help reduce future strain on your repair.
|Posted on Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 07:08 pm: ||
do you have to remove fairing?
seems like a tight space to work
and thanks Araignee, for the help
(Message edited by bubba_ on October 22, 2017)
|Posted on Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 07:19 pm: ||
- free up some slack
- strip away sleeve and locate wire defect and repair
thats what i'm doing in here.. right
(Lord help me)
|Posted on Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 09:31 pm: ||
Easiest way to gain access is to trace the short wiring bundle from the ignition to it's plug and unplug it. The plug is likely tangled up/hidden in the fairing bracket, but if you cut the zip ties securing all the fairing wires, you can usually work it loose.
You should end up with the ignition electrics and about 6" of sleeved wires with a plug on the end, free and clear. Much easier to do the soldering on a part not still attached to the bike.
Once you have the ignition module plug loose, you have no need to disconnect the battery.
The wires usually try to break either at their exit from the ignition module, or under the plastic cap on the wiring base.
Have faith, brother, you can do this.
|Posted on Friday, November 03, 2017 - 08:37 pm: ||
think i got it back working
when i got the ignition wires unplugged and removed, i found a completely severed, single wire. it was broke near the base of the board inside, unfortunately.
I had to remove the bottom 'cap' from the module to repair it. I made the decision to just add some length to all 4 wires.
i had some wire on hand, it was a bit heavier than required probably..
i decided to try some connectors called 'solder seal' ( i think?)
You connect the wires, then slide the connector over the wire junction. apply some heat - and the connector will shrink and also has a solder strip inside; seemed to work well.
I reinstalled w/o too much issue; Had some plastic cable wrap that i went ahead and used.
we'll see (Fingers crossed)
I dunno how anyone gets the whole ignition assembly out without taking the little end piece (the 2 little screws) off 1st.. but i'm pretty thick headed, no doubt.
seemed like no room to slide it down without hitting the frame.
- I removed left pod just for some elbow room .. almost every tab that connects the surlyn outside to the black inside piece was popped off.
still got to fix that. And some dont just pop back on at every connection; may have to trim the tab and glue or melt the tab.
- I did find the ignition module w/ key + gas cap + passenger seat lock as a set available on ebay. I went ahead and picked it up, just in case LOL
thanks Araignee, for the good advice
(Message edited by bubba_ on November 03, 2017)
|Posted on Saturday, November 04, 2017 - 05:12 am: ||
Just a FYI for those that will need to do this, I have done this repair several times, the last time I used thinner wire, longer and replaced the entire length of wire to the connector and it has lasted well over a year so far, when I used thicker wire it failed in a few months.
|Posted on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 - 02:29 pm: ||
That will teach me to tempt fate, failed again today, lesson learned, do not jinx yourself!
|Posted on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 - 02:54 pm: ||
Stimbrell, I believe it was Zac4mac that suggested filing down the fairing stay to reduce stress on the wires, have you tried that?
|Posted on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 - 06:21 pm: ||
I had the same issue, bike dying upon lock to lock turning of the bars. Upon removal of the lock and inspection of the wires I found a number of them to be cracking with a few of the strands of wire broken. I resoldered the connections and added about six inches of length to each wire. This allowed me to fold the wire up against the lockset and then it loops back down and into the hole in the fairing stay. As such the wires don't get pinched or constantly pulled and folded because they now have room to move freely. I effectively moved the exit of the wiring from the lockset six inches away from the fairing stay. THAT fix has been working well. I also found that the actual kill switch connection can cause problems as mine can be pushed together and pulled apart about a quarter of an inch, which causes a shut down, so check that area too. Hope that helps.
|Posted on Friday, November 24, 2017 - 01:45 pm: ||
Thanks for the advice both, I will do the repair this weekend, think I will try the loop first and see how that goes and look at the filing the fairing stay if needed later. This sort of advice is why forums like this are priceless.
|Posted on Friday, November 24, 2017 - 11:08 pm: ||
sorry you had issue again Stimbrell.. I liked the method you tried previously. Next time, i'll use that as part of my fix
the design that allows the wires to just hang from the circuit board and flop around freely is where the problem begins imo.
the 'loop' sounds like a good idea.
|Posted on Sunday, December 31, 2017 - 10:39 pm: ||
Keys, Ignition module, Gas cap, cowl lock set
ad states its off an XB but is compatible w/ 1125R..
assume that's true??
- LOL.. just the noticed the ad over in the classified section here on BWB
(Message edited by bubba_ on January 01, 2018)
|Posted on Monday, January 01, 2018 - 08:43 am: ||
We also have them in stock and they are new.
https://sphdonline.com/products/y0602-02a8-genuine -buell-lockset-for-2003-2009-firebolt-1125r-models -u6b
|Posted on Saturday, April 14, 2018 - 11:06 pm: ||
Questions, questions, questions???
Boy do I have questions.
OK here we go. On a 08R approximately 12K miles. about four months ago I experienced similar ignition wire problem. Pulled fairing and stay, started exposing wires, did not see a obvious problem. Thought maybe a partially or completely broken wire hidden by the wire insulation working until stretched. Thought this could take awhile. Garage not heated. Had another 08R approximately 2K miles ready to go and the air temp was around freezing so I thought to myself "I will gather material and wait until warmer weather". Started riding other 08R now 600 miles later having somewhat similar but different problem on second bike. I am confident I can repair bike #1 just need to spend some time on it. Thought I would ask if anyone experienced similar problem as I am seeing on bike #2.
Symptoms of problem on bike #2 are
a) when shutting bike off, hit kill switch, turn bars all the way to left, turn ignition key switch to "lock" remove key and gauge stays on. Sometimes I have to try shut down procedure a few times to get it to shut off.
b) with ignition in off position and bike off(I think key was still in, can't remember) I was able to get gauge to power up or flash for just a second by turning bars from lock to lock.
c) this problem is intermittent, has only done symptom a and b in freezing ass cold dry weather so far. Last time it would not power down was last week when I got to work. Air temp was 16* F. I have ridden her in the rain and snow to the point that the gauge had condensation in it for a week before it dried out. Have not seen the problem since air temp has started to warm up. The weather forecast for the next week has morning temps in the 20's, 30's and 40's so I will wait and see if problem repeats. Not really sure about this problem. Have not heard it mentioned here previously.
I have a spare ignition lock set I can swap out if problem persists to see if that eliminates problem but the fact that I have had the gauge "flash" by turning bars back and forth makes me think wiring. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated and possibly funny. I don"t know anybody else that tries to ride year round in Illinois. If I had a dime for every time somebody at work asked if I rode that day throughout the winter I could buy a couple more Buell's. Probably less than two weeks total I could not ride this winter due to too much snow or ice and on those days I threatened to buy a geared up Ural with sidecar (two wheel drive ya know)
I will try to answer some questions in advance.
Yes I do have a four wheel vehicle, it is a big white Ford van, I call her the "Great White Buffalo"
Yes I am dense, take great pride in it.
Yes I do feel bad about riding her in crappy weather but it teaches you to be smooth with your inputs.
No I have not crashed a street bike in the last 30 years.
(I specifically said street bike)
No I do not believe in jinxing myself.
Yes I do ride her like I stole her but not in town or where there are crossroads and she runs like a beast in frigid temps, only problem is it only takes about 600 miles to go through a new Dunlop, she wants to spin up on acceleration and step out on deacceleration.
Thanks, have fun