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Thefleshrocket
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Son of a biscuit--friggin' autofill changed this thread be called "what happened to my front brake rotor?" too.. it was supposed to be called "Fragile EBC rotors and warranty nonsense" or something like that. Gaaahhhh1!!!!

I recently (like, yesterday) acquired a new EBC brake rotor to replace the damaged stock rotor on my '08. Why an EBC rotor? It looked like a decent-quality, reliable, and most importantly, cheaper alternative to stock. I spent $145 on it, on Amazon. Since the updated rotor hardware kits were out of stock at the two vendors I found them at online, and since $70 for a few bolts and spacers seems excessive, I reused the stock hardware. (I'm probably going to die as a result.) I did use white "high temp" loctite when reinstalling the rotor bolts.

Reading the paperwork included with the rotor, I found that it says the following, very scary things:

"Rotor blade or ring on this disc or rotor design is made from billet steel. The reason it is made from billet steel is because it has a thickness of 7mm or more and cannot be made from rolled steel sheet as can 4, 5 and 6mm thicknesses. Billet steel is softer than hardened stainless teel and can be easily damaged by aggressive brake pad materials leading to disc scoring and brake squeal. The ONLY material that EBC recommend or warranty for use with its billet steel rotors is EBC organic material or the new EBC V-Pad range. A sintered metal pad is totally OFF limits here."

The EBC HH+ pads were underwhelming and I can only imagine that the organic or V-Pad pads are the textbook definition of wooden. So, basically, EBC says you MUST use a gentle yet terribly-performing pad with its rotor.

I am going to the Deals Gap area on Thursday, so getting my 1125R fully functional promptly was paramount. I, in the spirit of doing everything the wrong, cheap way, so that it kills me, am using the same DP Brakes HH+ pads that I was using with the stock rotor. Well, not the exact same pads--I had a new set sitting on the shelf, so the old rotor and old pads both went to the wayside.

I'm interested in experiences or comments from anyone who has used EBC rotors.

(Message edited by thefleshrocket on September 26, 2017)
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 03:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wasn't even aware EBC made a perimeter rotor for our bikes. Interesting....
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Thefleshrocket
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fresno, interesting, and apparently a non-viable option if you take the warranty caveats seriously.
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D_adams
Posted on Tuesday, September 26, 2017 - 08:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Front rotor should be 410D stainless, that's what the factory rotor is made from. Ask them (EBC) and verify it.
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Thefleshrocket
Posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2017 - 01:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dean, I sent EBC an email via its website asking if the MD735RS is 410D stainless. Will post up their reply. Thanks!
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Stevel
Posted on Wednesday, September 27, 2017 - 04:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pay very close attention to what the manufacturer recommends. In this case "EBC". Rotor/Pad compatibility is a very real issue. Stainless steel in all its alloys make poor brake rotors from a performance perspective. The issue is that it does not glaze well. It has a tendency to gall. Some SS alloys will work harden somewhat when rubbed, but not all, and even then it takes great care at break in by using very light braking for some time. Using a hard, high temperature resistant pad will just flat destroy a SS disc.

Another very real issue is the amount of internal stress that may be present in the rotor after manufacturing. These stresses originate from the rolling mill and the processes used there, as it affects the internal grain structure much of which cannot be completely removed through annealing or other heat treating processes. Further, the finish machining also induce further stresses. These internal stresses can and often do, cause warping in use due to the heating and cooling of the rotor. This issue is far more common on "live" material like steels. This is the reason cast iron is the material of choice. Unfortunately CI rusts. Most factory rotors, even on motorcycles are still made of CI. CI is a very "dead" material and will readily glaze resulting in a very wear resistant surface with very consistent brake feel. CI is also very size stable through heating and cooling with a very low coefficient of expansion (COE). Another advantage of CI is its ability to be compatible to almost all pad material in use.

ASME 400 series stainless steels are rust resistant not corrosion proof like 300 series and is a compromise between attractiveness and performance at best. The choice of 410 SS by Buell is one of the reasons the brakes do not perform as well as they should and the reason some of you have experienced warping. This material choice was the cause of the change in mounting, which was of course a band aid, not a cure. The original rotor mounting was the correct one, if the rotors were cast iron.
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